Before becoming co-owner of Star of Siam four months ago, Benjawan Baynard was born and raised in Thailand and grew up around food, helping her mom run a catering business that would ultimately inspire her restaurant industry career. She started by working locally in Thai restaurants, at first in the kitchen and then slowly more front-of-house work as her English improved—and she did a stint as a server/sushi chef at Star of Siam a decade ago.
The place was out of business for a couple years before Baynard asked the landlord what happened and was subsequently offered ownership. Jumping at the chance to revive the business, she reimagined the space to an open, modern ambiance with Thai paintings and murals accentuated by artwork of the Golden Shower Tree, Thailand’s national symbol.
Baynard defines the menu as central Thai cuisine with paramount focus on fresh ingredients and a combination of her own learned recipes and her mom’s classic ones from home. Highlighted appetizers are grilled chicken lettuce wraps with housemade peanut and spicy green chili sauces, and the signature creamy and flavorful tom kha soup. Entrée favorites include pan-fried salmon in panang curry and Thai basil spaghetti combining a choice of protein, veggies, garlic and chili whirled amongst stir-fried noodles and topped with crispy fried basil. Dessert leans tropical with fried tempura coconut ice cream and sweet coconut cream tapioca.
What did you learn about food from your mom?
BENJAWAN BAYNARD: She was very good at being detail-oriented and paying attention to all the little things when cooking. And she would remember the specific preferences of the people she cooked for, and she always said cooking for customers should be like cooking for family. My mom was kind and friendly too, so I try and follow in her footsteps by not only how she cooked, but also how she treated people.
Describe Star of Siam’s rebirth.
Because I worked here a long time ago, I was able to make many connections with our longtime customers that I’ve known. When I reopened, I renovated but wanted it to still feel like home for our regulars. And with the food, we tried to keep most of the same menu items, but improve upon them as well as add some of my own recipes.
3005 Porter St., Soquel, 831-281-2264; starofsiams.com
