There were grate expectations. Cremes of the crop. Fondues and don’ts, wheys to go, bleu feelings and harvarti parties.
At last month’s 19th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival, up the 880 in Sonoma, small producers conjured big flavor across seminars, tastings and tours.
“People came hungry, curious and ready to connect,” says Candace Allen, Beehive Cheese Company exec and president of the California Artisan Cheese Guild. “The energy was electric—proof that artisan cheese is more than food, it’s a community.”
Next California hosts the national American Cheese Society 2025 Annual Conference, July 23-26.
Pro tip: Volunteer like I did, meet a bunch of interesting cheese heads and curd mongers, support a worthy nonprofit, and earn free access to a swath of experiences. cheesesociety.org
OFF THE PIE CHARTS
Beckmann’s Bakery (1053 17th Ave., Santa Cruz) has claimed another slice of competitive glory at the National Pie Championships, which has been assembling since 1995, and happened in Orlando last month, hosted by the American Pie Council, whose motto is: “We all love pies.” Beckmann’s six ribbons—yes, a half dozen, some of them repeat victories—were awarded for their peach pie, cherry pie and pumpkin pie for best in those categories, on top of nods for the time-honored bakery’s strawberry-marionberry pie (for “mixed berry”) berry bomb (for “berry”) and—debuting in Santa Cruz this fall—rum-laced chocolate pecan (for a special syrup recipe slot).
The wins all came within the commercial super gourmet echelon of the showdown, which also cultivates amateur and professional divisions. Their edge, per Beckmann’s Business Development Operations Manager Tony Stumbaugh, involves some madness. “Where we’re insane is we make more than 200,000 pies every year, by hand,” he says, noting all-natural butter crusts help too. “The fact we’re able to pump out such high volume and be consistent with quality is a testament to our bakers.” beckmannsbakery.com.
SPOON FEEDINGS
I may have buried the lede (though this is a food column, not a horseracing report): Journalism, the bay colt who turned 3 on Monday, won the Preakness Stakes on Saturday, setting up a potential showdown against Sovereignty in the Belmont Stakes (Sovereniiety finished first just ahead of Journalism at the Kentucky Derby). I repeat, Journalism won!…
The makeover at local favorite watering hole and red meat capital, The Hindquarter Bar and Grille (303 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz) is complete and represents a nice upgrade that doesn’t mess with the great value-fine steak formula that’s made it so popular for so long. thehindquarter.com…The BBQ Kauaiian at The Pizza Series (226 Mt Hermon Road, Scotts Valley) sounded good enough that I skipped my standard cupping pepperoni for a thick and caramelized-cheesy slab of smoked bacon, Black Forest ham, shaved jalapeños and fresh pineapple. Detroit-style delish, thepizzaseries.com…
Bummer alert: The since-1959 Central Coast tradition that is the Artichoke Festival is no more, with organizers citing increased event production costs, insurance premiums, permitting requirements and operational challenges…International spirits houses like the parent company of Johnnie Walker and Smirnoff are posturing for a tariff hit, countering anticipated $150 million annual losses with a $500 million cost-cutting move…In-N-Out is removing artificial dyes from its strawberry milkshakes and pink lemonade, going for natural coloring, while switching to a ketchup recipe that swaps out high-fructose corn syrup for real sugar…Author/intellectual/media personality Clifton Fadiman, close us out: “Cheese is milk’s leap toward immortality.”
