.Mighty Leaf

1515 DININGRadicchio from Dirty Girl Produce, wine etiquette fail, and a treat from Gayle’s

The enlightened growers of Dirty Girl are always my second stop at the Saturday Farmers Market on the Westside. There, amidst the gleaming globes of new onions, the deep verdigris-hued kale and flouncy fingers of carrot lay something new. Radicchio. Oh, we know about chicories, but these were something tantalizingly out of the ordinary. Radicchio Rosso di Treviso—pale pink heads the size of a Viking’s fist, containing loosely coiled, beautifully marbleized pink and green swirled leaves. A hand-written sign invited me to braise this lovely bitter spring green. And so I took two small heads home with me. One of them—chopped into thin ribbons—found its way into that evening’s marinara sauce, adding a welcome piquancy to every bite of rich, tomato-sweet sauce. We both nodded. Yes! This is the new secret heart of future pasta sauces. A few nights later, the second head was also cut into shreds and braised in olive oil, garlic and a few splashes of chicken broth. It served as the side green for roast steelhead. It was incredible; like baby bok choy on steroids, edgy and bitter, yet tender and appealing. Not too bitter, just enough to let you know that it was more assertive than cooked spinach. I am now an unrepentant chicory braiser. (My first stop, by the way, is always Companion Bakeshop and/or H&H fishmongers.)

A Word to Wine Rookies

Last week a highly informative and entertaining talk by an expert on Hungarian wines was ruined for many of us because some (obviously inexperienced) participants thought their $20 fee entitled them to drink fast, talk loud, and take selfies throughout the Q&A session. Wrong! A wine workshop is not just a wine-tasting where you and your friends get raucous in a chic setting. Soif is not your own private living room. If you can’t shut up and respect the speaker, then leave. There were plenty of other people at that event who had also paid $20 a head, and it wasn’t to hear you being loud and obnoxious. You know who you are.

Growing like Weeds

A new series of farm dinners begins on June 28 at Watsonville’s atmospheric Lonely Mountain Farm. Chef Curtis Valdez pairs up with Alfaro Family Vineyards for the first event. On August 16 Santos Majano (of Discretion Brewing, and formerly of Soif) will prepare something seasonal and very local, and the series wraps up on October 4 with a special dinner prepared by Brad Briske, who cooks at La Balena after having warmed up in the kitchen of Gabriella and Main Street Garden Cafe. Tons of culinary talent will be showcased at these choice summertime dining events. Plan to attend at least one of them! For more details, check lonelymountainfarm.com/events.html.

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Mother’s Day Brunch Benefit at Stone Meal Farms.  

The Santa Cruz Farmers Market will host a May 10 celebration at the Scotts Valley setting. The $88 tickets treat to you a meal featuring the talent of Companion Bakeshop, along with special bubbly from Equinox Wine. The brunch includes a tour of Stone Meal Farm along with farm manager Thomas Herzog. Food—fruit, cheese, salad, biscuits, asparagus, salmon and farm eggs, plus Meyer lemon pound cake, oh my!—atmospheric farm vibes, sparkling wine, all to support the Santa Cruz Farmers Market’s educational efforts. Info on the campaign’s tab of santacruzfarmersmarket.org.

Treat of the Week

Well as far as Lisa and I are concerned, it has to be the user-friendly Strawberry Shortcake Cookie (more like a scone) from Gayle’s. Studded with fresh strawberries and lightly dusted with sugar, this delicious mid-morning treat (about $3) is a reason to linger at the lively bakery and gossip, uh, engage in enlightened intellectual debate.


PHOTO: Megan Vanderbeck of Dirty Girl Produce with some of their farmers market crop. CHIP SCHEUER

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