The hamburger wasn’t invented in California, but one can argue that the modern, everyday burger has deep roots here, with the state being the birthplace of A&W, In-N-Out, Carl’s Jr. and Jack-in-the-Box, among other takeout pioneers.

But in Santa Cruz, it’s not the fast-food burger that reigns supreme. Here, chefs lavish love on the humble burger, elevating it with fresh produce, house-made condiments and culinary twists culled from around the globe.

And this month, the hamburger is front of mind for many local chefs, as they prepare to kick off the annual Santa Cruz Burger Week on Feb. 26. Participating restaurants include burger specialists as well as eateries that are better known for other epicurean achievements. But they all share some things in common: They use Burger Week to try out new recipes, attract new customers, and make their mark on a classic dish.

In talking with these chefs about the specials they’ve planned for Burger Week, they also shared their thoughts on what makes a great burger, how it should be prepared, and what creative adjustments can be made to the stereotypical burger combo.

Meat of the Matter

It may seem obvious that the quality of the patty is key. But how to ensure that? “We grind our meat fresh every day. We only grind one piece of meat at a time,” says Ben Krajl, executive chef at Back Nine Grill and Bar. “It really makes a difference.”

Erik Granath of Parish Publick House says lower-quality beef is “too fatty. It’s not the same. If you start with the basics—build it around a nice foundation of quality beef—you can almost not go wrong.”

Erick Gonzalez of The Point uses “100 percent Angus beef patty, I think it makes a big difference.” But just as important, he says, is getting the right temperature: “For me it’s a medium cooked burger. … It’s nice and pink in the middle with the right amount of juiciness.”

Ken Drew of Sevy’s says the cardinal burger sin is “overcooking it. … If you order a well-done burger, to me it’s just a waste. It should have a little bit of juice in it, even if it’s cooked all the way. It shouldn’t be dry like a sausage.”

For Josh Parmalee of Ideal Bar & Grill, there’s got to be flame. “I prefer a burger that has a decent amount of fat mixed into it, flame broiled, with a brioche bun, cheese, raw white onion and lettuce. The pickle is also key—it has to be a dill sphere.”

Tad Moore of Chunk’s Sandwiches cites another factor: melting point. “I’m a cheeseburger guy, so I think a good melt is important,” he asserts. “You need that melt to drip down the burger and tie it all together.”

Bun and Done

Geoff Hargrave of Izakaya West End and the East End Gastropub argues that “it’s bread and meat. The bread, the density, the saltiness…it’s the first thing that hits your palate. If you have a stale piece of bread, it’s just not right.” He muses, “The eating experience is more defined by the bread.”

Charlie Watson of Zachary’s says, “What sets us apart is we do homemade bread and homemade buns. That’s what separates a Zachary’s burger from other places. It’s a sour white bun, not a strict sourdough. It’s really good. It can absorb all kinds of juiciness.”

“Sometimes you have overload of meat and not enough bun. Or the other way around,” says Henry Wong, co-owner of Mad Yolks. “Finding the right balance is oh, so important to me. The buns cannot be too fluffy; otherwise it will be too soaked. We really focus on the bun. We continuously improve on the bun—changing and testing and doing trials in our kitchen.”

Structural Integrity

Several chefs like their buns toasted. Chelsea of Makai says it helps avoid “that soggy bottom bun. It’s so unappealing and it sticks to your fingers.”

Exec Chef Jeff Westbrook, who has been at the Crow’s Nest for almost 30 years and oversees several other restaurants, says, “I like something you can actually eat. So if I’m eating it and it’s falling apart or the bun doesn’t hold up well to the burger—it starts disintegrating when you get halfway through—that really kind of bums me out.”

Beyond the meat and bun, the sky’s the limit on how one can gussy up the basic burger. For Belly Goat Burgers co-owner Greg Crema, fresh ingredients are key. “If you don’t get that, you’re not gonna get a good burger. So it’s fresh produce, fresh ingredients, house-made sauces, house-made aiolis, house-made toppings.”

Parish’s Granath adds, “With Watsonville, Salinas Valley, our produce is fantastic. It’s a great area for a great burger.”

Henry Wong of Mad Yolks concurs. “People prefer local ingredients. We do fast casual, but we pay a lot of attention to the ingredients. In Aptos, we have Glaum Egg Ranch. They’ve been very good to us and to the community. … Even during this time they try to fulfill our demand.”

Pour Choices

In our unofficial polls with chefs about the best beverage to pair with a classic burger, most fell into one of two camps: beer or cola. Erick Gonzalez, general manager of the Point Kitchen & Bar, says, “You can’t go wrong with a beer, especially since we have only local draft beer. We carry Humble Sea, Santa Cruz Mountain, Discretion, St. Adarius, Corralitos.”

Parish Publick House’s Granath also favors burgers and brews, even offering his pick for a nonalcoholic option: Best Day Brewing’s kölsch.

For Westbrook of the Crow’s Nest, “It depends on the burger. … If it’s something that has a little spice to it, I would go with an ice-cold beer. If it’s something on the chi-chi end, maybe a glass of wine.”

Whether it’s a cold beer or a cold cola, Tad of Chunk’s says, “I like a can or a bottle. You get the satisfaction of opening it up and you get that fizz and pop … there’s something celebratory about that.”

Izakaya’s Geoff Hargrave weighs in: “Coca-Cola, in a can. It has to be ice-cold in a can because it’s about the aggressiveness of the carbonation to cut through all that fat.”

Ken Drew of Sevy’s says, “I don’t like the plastic bottles. … I don’t like ice with my soda. And I’ll be honest with you. My favorite is RC. But you can’t really find it.”

Francisco Cernatis of Hula’s Island Grill favors Coca-Cola because “with all of the saltiness of a burger it’s good to pair it with something sweet.” And for those looking to imbibe booze, he recommends Hula’s mai tai. “It’s a rum-forward drink but it has a lot of pineapple juice.”

Greg Crema of Belly Goat Burgers says, “We serve a lot of craft gin and tonics at Abbott Square. People love to pair them with the burgers.”

And for teetotallers? Mad Yolks’ Henry Wong likes “refreshing tea.” And Ben Kralj of Back Nine says, “If I’m feeling crazy, maybe an Arnold Palmer. When you have something that’s really savory, the Arnold Palmer has a little bit of tannins from the ice tea and a little sweetness from the lemonade.”

Side Issues

Granath of Parish Publick House put it succinctly: “You can’t substitute burgers and fries. That’s insane.”

Marty Soliz of Heavenly Roadside Cafe also thinks it’s a big mistake to not order the fries. “Ours are made from scratch,” she says. “They’re blanched and then we fry them to order.” And so are the onion rings, she adds. “They’re really big. A couple times I’ve walked by a table and people will ask if they’re donuts.”

But for those looking to avoid fried foods, there are other suggestions for a match made in burger heaven.

Executive chef Westbrook says, “At the Crow’s Nest we’re offering house-made potato chips that we serve with chipotle ranch. So it’s something a little bit different. For Santa Cruz Diner we’re actually doing tater tots—a little bit of cajun spice.”

Mad Yolks’ Wong also suggests tater tots, or another of their signature sides: “potato balls—crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.”

Back Nine’s Krajl has an open mind on the subject: “You can do a side salad, a side Caesar salad, you could do applesauce, apples, onion rings, sweet potato fries.” Plus, he says, “our scalloped potatoes are really yummy, made from scratch every day. Those have some onion and some thyme and lots of cheese and cream in them.”

At Hula, Francisco Cernatis recommends “cole slaw or macaroni salad. We use a vegan mayo—we try to have items that everyone can eat.”

Greg Crema of Belly Goat Burgers says, “We’re starting to introduce a side of chili. That’s a classic pairing.” And for those who don’t opt for his restaurant’s “killer potato salad,” Charlie Watson of Zachary’s agrees that “a cup of chili could be good alongside a burger.”

And for those who want to up the comfort-food quotient with their burger meal, Josh Parmalee of Ideal Bar & Grill suggests macaroni and cheese.

Meeting Meatless Needs

Though there’s no official city ordinance, it somehow feels mandatory to offer some sort of veggie burger, and there is plenty of variety here too.

Erick from the Point likes to offer Beyond Meat patties on a pretzel bun. “It makes a big difference, adds a lot of different flavors.” At the Crow’s Nest, Jeff Westbrook mentions “a Southwestern-style veggie burger with black beans and corn and some carrots. It’s an oat-based burger.”

Portobello mushrooms are a go-to for meatless meals. Back Nine’s Krajl says, “We do have a veggie burger. No frills, just the black bean garden burger.” But he says it’s the marinated portobello mushroom sandwich that is the real winner. “You need to have something that’s going to be easy for the kitchen to produce while at the same time fitting your identity as a restaurant if you will. I don’t want to do something completely out of left field.”

Ken Drew of Sevy’s agrees. Even in an area open to vegetarian options, it can be tough to predict how many dishes will be ordered, so to avoid wasting food, he prepares vegetarian options from ingredients on hand.

Greg Crema is all in on mushroom options, which offer “the same texture as a beef patty so you’re getting that ingredient without having the beef. And you can put your cheeses on there and your vegetables and make it a nice burger.” He adds, “I also love a tofu burger.”

Says Chelsea Holmes, chef at both Makai and Riva, “I think the garnishes and the sauce you put on the [veggie] burger will definitely help elevate the flavor. We have a spice at Riva that we use for our short ribs.” Francisco Cernatis of Hula offers the Impossible burger and finds that it needs different cooking techniques. “We broil the regular patty—they’re kissed by the fire,” he explains. With the Impossible burger, “frying it in its own pan gives it the best texture.”

For all Burger Week offerings, visit
Good Times’ Burger Lineup page