In the early stages of their vino venture, winemaker and owner Jim Boyle, along with his wife Robin, were making so much wine that they had to give much of it away. Finally, Jim decided it was time to get serious, open a tasting room and actually start selling the fruits of their labors. Dancing Creek Winery was born, its name inspired by the Santa Cruz landscape: โWe live in a crazy yellow house in a Happy Valley on a dancing creek,โ the Boyles explain.
Wine lovers in the area now head to the Boylesโ tasting room to snap up their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Merlot. Add to that list their new 2009 Zinfandel Port, made with grapes harvested from Zayante Vineyard. Itโs $18 for a 12-ounce bottle and is only available in their tasting room. But this ruby beauty with its dark fruit and peppery spice is worth a trip to Dancing Creek.
Growing up in England, I well remember how much my mother loved a drop of port after dinner, and this sweet wine is still very much associated with Brits. The Boyles have captured rich and sensuous flavor and sealed it in a bottle with an elegant red wax seal. Pair it with cheese, especially a tart Roquefort or a nice bit of English Stiltonโand we all know how well port goes with chocolate. Dancing Creek Winery, 4363 Branciforte Drive, Santa Cruz. 408-497-7753. dancingcreekwinery.com. The Boylesโ tasting room is very close to the famous Mystery Spot, and open every third Saturday of the month from noon to 5 p.m., so the next time will be Feb. 20.
Fat Tuesday at Michaelโs on Main
Fat Tuesday (aka Shrove Tuesday) on Feb. 9 at Michaelโs on Main in Soquel promises to be a tasty time for all. Guest chef Madlyn Norman-Terrance will be cooking up her famous gumbo, Kip Allert will performโand itโs all paired with local wines by Bargetto Winery. Wine-pairing dinner is from 6:30-8 p.m. and cost is $25 per person. Visit michaelsonmain.net for more info.ย
โI plan to focus on Bordeaux varietals in the future,โ says proactive winemaker Andre Beauregard. โI really enjoyย tasting them and seeing the wine evolve over time in the glass.โ Let me second that. Having enjoyed Beauregardโs 2013 releases, including an endlessly likable Syrah ($21) and a notable Cabernet Franc ($24), I have become a very interested fan of the young, forward-looking West Cliff Wines with the appealing red and yellow lighthouse on the label. Made in what the winemaker calls a โvery Old Worldโ style, the 92-percent-Cab-Franc, 8-percent-Merlot blend developed its nuance thanks to 21 months in the barrel. Native yeast fermentation and the winemakerโs devotion to โthe minimal manipulation philosophy of winemaking,โ have done the rest. Made from Santa Clara Valley grapes, the result is a lilting creation, with a central core of bay, cedar, and raspberry, and a gorgeous nose of rose, violets and some mysterious spice. The 14.1 percent alcohol carries the well-balanced tannins and fruit.
Beauregardโs new releases represent a collaboration with vintner colleagues, winemaker Olivia Teutschel and Bobby Graviano of Bargetto Winery. โThey are young winemakers like myself,โ Beauregard tells me, โvery knowledgeable and passionate. They were nice enough to do some blend trials with me to see what we all felt was a good amount of Merlot to blend into the Cab Franc, to brighten it up and add some fruit.โ
โWe had fun with these wines,โ he says. The winemaker also admits that during the winemaking process heโs had to learn patience. โIโve learned to take time, and to let the wines have the time they need to develop the complexity and elegance that I appreciate,โ he says.
Longtime wine buyer at Shopperโs Corner, Beauregard has tuned his palate by sampling broadly from the worldโs most prestigious winegrowing areas. Heโs also grown up surrounded by every phase of winemaking, thanks to his grandfather and father whose vineyards fuel many of the top Santa Cruz Mountains labels, and to a brother with his own thriving Beauregard Vineyards label. If the 2013 Cabernet Franc from West Cliff Wines is any indication, Iโd say that Bordeaux-style wines would be a terrific focus for his evolving ideas and skills.
Chocolate Fix
Any minute now, a new chocolate cafรฉ from award-winning chocolatier Jennifer Ashby will open in the cozy nook at 1001 Center St., next to the Food Lounge and formerly occupied by Mutari. The in-progress Ashbyโs Chocolate Cafe was just being detailed by designer/painter Scott Riddle when I stuck my head in last week. Riddle, who created the cacao tree mural for the cafeโs new front counter, confesses that heโs โa chocolate snob,โ who believes that Ashbyโs chocolate drinks compare favorably with anything heโs had in Paris and Tokyo. That got my attention. Ashby says that she plans to cut back opening hours at her Scotts Valley location of Ashby Confections retail store while she gets the new shop fine tuned.
โWeโll have espresso drinks, and many different mochas. More European-style hot chocolates as well as traditional South American drinks,โ she says. And, she says sheโll also be serving organic CaCoCo products, โand of course a smattering of our truffles and salted caramels,โ she adds. The new Center Street location is more of a cafe than a shop. โA small cafe and a retail outlet for our line of chocolates,โ she explains. For now, Ashbyโs Chocolate Cafe will tempt patrons with its colorful new cafe at the very front of the Art Center building. โOur patrons can sit in the Food Lounge when there are no other events,โ Ashby says. โAnd eventually weโll have outdoor seating in front and also on the side patio.โ The cafe should be open by the time you read this.
For more than 14,000 years, humans have had a close relationship with wild salmon. Along the Pacific Coast, natives harvested thousands of adult salmon each fall from their spawning grounds in local rivers and streams, a catch that fed their families throughout the year. While many cultures in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska are still deeply wedded to the salmon resource, Californiaโs grasp has grown increasingly slippery, with only a small percentage of its historical natural breeding population remaining. Salmonโs legacy for Californians goes far beyond its estimated $1.4 billion fishery, or its classification as one of the most nutritious foods in the world: the fish also provide a vital transfer of nutrients and energy from the ocean back to the freshwater ecosystems where they were born. โPeople have done studies to show that you can identify ocean-derived nutrients from salmon in many dozens of different species, like kingfishers or water ouzels, fish-eating ducks, foxes, raccoons, coyotesโall the way up to the big predators that used to live here but are gone, like grizzly bears,โ says Nate Mantua, a research scientist for NOAAโs Southwest Fishery Science Center in Santa Cruz. Accumulating 95 percent of their biomass at sea, adult Pacific salmon die after they spawn, and their nutrient-rich carcasses, gametes (mature eggs and sperm) and metabolical waste return to the land. โItโs fascinating that, over the eons, a lot of fertilizer was provided by these dead salmon, so a lot of the wine grapes and a lot of the agriculture inland by the rivers was fertilized by salmon for a long time,โ says Randy Repass of the Golden Gate Salmon Association (GGSA), a coalition of salmon advocates based in Petaluma. Salmonโs yearly return props up an entire food web, replenishing bacteria and algae, bugs and small fish, and fueling plant growth with deposits of nitrogen and phosphorus. โThey fertilized forests as well, there are lots of studies that find salmonโs ocean-derived nutrients in trees that grow along productive salmon watersheds,โ says Mantua. โAnd where weโve depleted the natural runs of salmon, weโve really degraded that connection.โ
Damming a Species
The largest salmon known to manโwith adults often exceeding 40 pounds, and capable of growing to 120 poundsโthe chinook (aka king) salmon is the pride and joy of Californiaโs salmon fishery. Not so long ago, the Central Valley watershed was one of the biggest producers of naturally breeding chinook salmon in the world, second only to the Columbia River, with the Klamath River another big California contributor. Driven by the Sacramento and San Joaquin river systems, the Central Valley nursed a ballpark average of a few million salmon per year, emerging each spring out of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, says Mantua. โToday, natural production, maybe in a good year is in the hundred thousand or hundreds of thousands,โ Mantua says. โSo, yeah, itโs a few percent of the historical population.โ In addition to cold ocean water and an ample food supply at sea, salmon require cold river water that drains all the way to the sea, and, during their early life, a delta habitat. Salmon eggs do not survive in water warmer than 56 degrees, which is why adult fish ready to spawn instinctively head toward the cold, upper headwaters and tributaries coming out of the snow-packed mountains. Development in the โ40s through โ60s, and especially the constructions of dams like the Shasta Dam, built in 1943 on the Sacramento River, played a key role in the near-annihilation of the long-standing fish stock. โWhen they built the big dams in California, they basically blocked off access to 80 or 90 percent of the habitat salmon historically used to reproduce in California,โ says John McManus, executive director of the GGSA. Fish ladders, which are like a staircase of pools that salmon can jump through to get over the dam and continue their journey upstream, were built on river dams in Oregon and Washington. โWell, in California when they built dams, they didnโt put a ladder on a single one of them,โ says McManus. The problem with building them now is that most of the dams in California are too massive. โA fish ladder will work with a dam thatโs up to about 140 feet high,โ says McManus. โThe dams that we have in California, a lot of them are in the 200-feet-plus range. Now, everybody is forced basically to get along in the valley floor, in whatever habitatโs left over,โ says McManus. โItโs kind of a wonder theyโre still alive. Theyโre clinging to existence.โ One solution being discussed on the Yuba and Sacramento rivers is a โtrap and haulโ plan, which would trap adult salmon who beat their heads against the base of the dams, and give them a ride up over the dam in an elevator, then trap and truck the baby salmon who come back down the river after theyโre hatched. But itโs an expensive proposal, says McManus. One such program that may begin at the Shasta Dam in two years is estimated to cost $16 million for the first three years, according to the federal Bureau of Reclamation, which manages Shasta Dam. Californiaโs four salmon runsโFall, Late-Fall, Winter and Springโare named for the time of year they return from the open ocean as adults, after about two to five years spent feasting on smaller fish and krill at sea, and back under the Golden Gate Bridge to the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta. As of 1989, the winter run had joined the ranks of 130 other endangered and threatened marine species when it was listed as an endangered species under the Federal Endangered Species Act. Ten years later, the spring run was listed as threatened. Itโs the stateโs numerous hatcheries, managed by the California Department of Fish and Game, that now propel the strongest fall run, which makes up the bulk of Californiaโs fishery. Not to be confused with farmed salmonโa practice banned for salmon in Californiaโand a far cry from the on-land GMO-raised salmon recently approved by the FDA and projected to hit supermarkets in two years, hatcheries produce about 90 percent of chinook salmon caught in the ocean. But hatcheries are not invulnerable to drought conditions or massive habitat losses in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta. โWhen we have a really good fishing year out in the ocean, itโs because of two things,โ says McManus. โWe have a good contribution from natural spawning salmon coming out of the Central Valley, and we have a good contribution from the hatcheries.โ
Feast or Famine
When I ring Frank Ribeiroโs boat, Gayle R, in the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor, his answering machine squawks out that there is โno new news!โ With an email list of more than 1,000 customers for salmon and Dungeness crab, which heโs been fishing locally since โ71, everyone is clamoring to know if crab season will be called back on. I found Ribeiroโwhose reputation as both a damn good fisherman and a notorious flirt echoes up and down the docksโon his boat, cooking a pot of beans. Sitting on the deck, he jokes to a passerby that heโs going to bottle and sell the rain water heโs been collecting in plastic bins when water is scarce this summer. โLike when they canned San Francisco fog and made a killing selling it as souvenirs,โ he says. โIโve got to make a living somehow.โ PRIZE CATCH Hans Haveman of H&H Fish Co. with his son, holding a freshly caught chinook salmon. PHOTO: TED HOLLADAY Last year, Ribeiro took the salmon season off. โThere were some fish up north, but not much down here. They said it was going to be a bumper year, but it wasnโt,โ he says. โWe havenโt had any water in the rivers. They claim that there is a lot of fish trying to go up the rivers, but we donโt know whatโs going on. We wonโt know until we go fishing.โ If you can catch 200-300 pounds of fish, you can make a living, he says, and if you can get more than 1,000 pounds youโre pretty much set. โIโve done OK,โ he says, pausing to greet E dockโs resident seagull, P.P. โIโll always fish, as long as Iโm alive.โ With a house in the Azores and one in Santa Cruz, Ribeiro, now 70, represents a generation of old timers who weathered both good and bad years, but for whom the good years outnumbered the bad. โWhen I first started, the piers were loaded,โ says Wilson Quick, who began fishing out of Santa Cruz in 1966 with his dad, and continues to fish for salmon up and down the coast on his boat Sun Ra. โAll of that stock was nothing but a solid commercial fleet. I would say there were at least 60 salmon boats in the Santa Cruz harbor in the beginning.โ Today, there are 25 boats with commercial salmon permits, according to Hans Haveman of H&H Fresh Fish Co., who has also been the official fish buyer at the Santa Cruz Harbor for the past three years. Following a period of abundance in the late โ80s and then again in the late โ90s and early 2000s, Californiaโs salmon season was closed in 2008 and 2009, due to a population crash that scientists at NOAA in Santa Cruz found was due to a lack of upwelling and the subsequent low production of krill, one of salmonโs dietary staples. โThe population has undergone a modest rebound since then, but it still has not reached the abundance that we observed in the late โ90s and early 2000s,โ says Michael OโFarrell, a research fish biologist at NOAA. โTo be honest, I havenโt had a good year since I have taken over. Even from last year, being a decent year, there was barely enough for my farmers markets,โ says Haveman, whose top-selling fish at H&H is salmon. โItโs sad because it used to be what everybody put on their barbecue, and in the last couple years itโs turned into a โbirthday fish,โ as I call it, because people can only buy a little piece of it at $25 per pound.โ The inception of farmed salmon during the abundant โ90s had a huge impact on local fishermen, whose price was brought down to 97 cents per pound, says Haveman. โNow itโs come full circle. People learn more about farmed fish, and theyโre breaking down the door for wild fish,โ says Haveman, who says prices are now around $5 to $8 per pound off the docks. According to McManus, Californiaโs salmon fishery, currently estimated at around $1.4 billion and employing 23,000, would be more like $6 billion if abundance was restored to 1988 levels. โAnd that money gets spread all over; itโs the guy at the fuel docks whoโs getting money for fuel, itโs the guy at the boatyard who had to fix your boat, itโs the guy who sells the trailers, runs the harbor, fishing equipment,โ says McManus. About 60 percent of salmon caught in Washington and Oregon are Central Valley fish, he adds, so itโs not just our economy that gets hurt during bad fishing years. While Quick says heโs seen an increase in small sardines, a potential good sign for salmon, Greg Ambiel, who has been fishing salmon locally for 30 years, is not hedging any bets for this coming season. โThe fish are being killed in the Central Valley before they get a chance to get to the ocean,โ says Ambiel. โIf you follow the money, thatโs who gets the water. Itโs simple, just go look at the almond trees in the Central Valley.โ Indeed, over the last few years, a fairly drastic shift has occurred, with high-profit almond crops replacing raisin grapes and other less profitable crops in the Central Valley. The problem for salmon is that it takes a gallon of water to produce one almondโwhich is three times more water than it takes to produce a grapeโaccording to a study published in 2011 at the University of Twente in the Netherlands. Water demands for agriculture are a known contributor to an estimated 95 percent loss of salmonโs critical rearing ground in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta. The success of the 2016 season also relies on the survival rate of the juveniles who went to sea in the spring of 2014. โThat was a transition year from what looked like really good ocean conditions in 2012, 2013, the spring of 2014. But by the fall of that year, it started to look really bad,โ says Mantua, who says ocean temperatures remained warmer than normal for all of 2015, which is not favorable. Two weeks ago, OโFarrell began the process of calculating 2016 abundance forecasts for both the Sacramento and Klamath rivers and tributariesโbased on data that includes the return of fish the previous fall. Each March, he reports the number to the Pacific Fishery Management Council, who then sets the season in April. โWhere weโre at right now, weโve come out of the very low abundance periods of 2008 and 2009, but we donโt know exactly what the returns are for this past year,โ says OโFarrell. โThere are some issues that we are monitoring with regard to the effects of drought and ocean conditions. Itโs hard to say which way the populationโs going to go at this point, but weโll have more information on that in a couple of months.โ
Hatch-22
DISAPPEARING ACT El Nino’s warm ocean temperatures this past year may drive this season’s catch fruther north from the typically productive Monterey Bay canyon. Of the four runs of Caliofrnia’s chinook salmon, two are listed as threatened or endangered, along with the once locally prolific steelhead trout and coho salmon. PHOTO: TED HOLLADAY Under ideal conditions, a hatchery will produce a lot more juvenile salmon smolts that are ready to go to the ocean from a single pair of parents than could be produced in the wild. โWild fish are spawning in gravelsโsome of those eggs may not get fertilized, some are going to get preyed upon by other fish or birds, some might not successfully hatch, and then once they hatch, the fry are going to be subject to lots of predation risk. So a lot of those fish end up getting eaten before they are big enough to go to sea,โ says Mantua. โFor a pair of natural spawning salmon, maybe in a really good year theyโll produce 50 or a hundred smolts, but for a pair of spawning adults in a hatchery, they might produce 5,000.โ But drought can tip those odds considerably: for the past two years, 95 percent of winter-run salmon were killed off by low water levels and high temperatures in the Sacramento River, and 98 percent of salmon eggs perished in the Red Bluff area this year. The drought also left Lake Shasta at low levels. Such conditions that hurt the winter run are not good for the other runs either, says McManus. Heavy rains not only raise river levels to help salmon down the river, they also raise water turbidity, which acts as a cloaking device against predators. The last year that happened was in the winter of 2010-2011, says McManus. โIt started raining in October, and it didnโt really stop until June. So, in a situation like that, in spite of the dam, thereโs so much water everywhere that it mimics the way it used to be in the good old days before the dams,โ he says. โIn fact, you get a bunch of runoff coming down even below the dams. So in situations like that, survival of the juvenile salmon is quite high.โ In 2014, to avoid high loss of baby salmon due to low, clear water conditions during drought, the GGSA began encouraging all of the stateโs hatcheries to truck their productions down to the bay to release them safely. Of five major hatcheries, which collectively produce around 32 million juvenile salmon, says McManus, two were already trucking 100 percent of their production, and by 2015, GGSA had gotten the other three to also give their smolts a rideโwhich is expensive. โThe biggest hatchery we have in the Central Valley is called the Coleman Hatchery, up by Redding,โ McManus says. โIt produces 12.5 million juvenile salmon every year, and itโs around 280 miles from the Bay. You can fit about 120,000 in a tanker truck, so if you think about it, thatโs over 300 truckloads.โ This means there could be a fairly good chunk of hatchery-produced salmon out in the ocean this yearโand old enough to be fishedโas a result of the 2014 trucking, says McManus. But while scientists and fishermen agree that trucking prompted an increase in survival, Steve Lindley, leader of the Fisheries Ecology Division at NOAA, says that the practice is the only GGSA-backed idea that his lab does not agree with. โWe have serious concerns about the longterm consequences of those practices for the genetic integrity of the stock,โ says Lindley. When salmon make their way down the river on their own, they use their sense of smell to memorize their way back. โWhen theyโre trucked, the fish canโt find their way back to where they were born very accurately, and they end up going all over the place, and they interbreed with each other.โ Inbreeding is especially detrimental to endangered fish, whose low numbers increase the probability. โIt causes fish to die before they can reproduce,โ says John Carlos Garza, a research geneticist at NOAA. Garza, who was recently dubbed โThe Fish Matchmakerโ in the New York Times, is currently working to provide DNA-based elucidation of kin relationships to conservation hatcheries. In the wild, salmon are more likely to recognize close kin to avoid breeding with them. โIn the hatcheries, typically, itโs a haphazard process,โ says Garza. โTheyโre sticking this big bucket into the tank, and taking whoever comes up first in line, first male, first female.โ The genetic markers involve a noninvasive fin clipping, and is especially important for small hatcheries. โIt essentially adds back in the element of inbreeding avoidance that occurs in natural populations to the hatchery environment,โ he says.
Restoring Hope
While the Central Valley Improvement Act, passed in 1992, ambitiously hoped to double the number of salmon and steelhead trout in the Sacramento River basin over the past 22 years, theyโve fallen short. While their goal was to see 86,000 spring-run chinook salmon spawning in the Central Valley by 2012, the number was just 30,522. Federal officials cited obstacles such as drought, competing demands for water and lack of funding. But Lindley points to success stories in Central Valley wetland restoration in places like Clear Creek and Butte Creek. โThese shallow areas that are nurseries for salmon, those populations have done very well, even during the poor ocean and drought periods,โ he says. โSo itโs not a lost cause. But we do really need to address some of these habitat issues, and find a way to operate salmon hatcheries in a way that supports our fisheries without imperiling their long-term liability. Weโre really keen on working with GGSA and the fishing community and the broader fish and water communities to try to find those kind of solutions.โ The GGSA is also working with researchers at NOAA to identify areas of high predation along the river and delta, to try to restore some of the historic rearing areas where the fish can pick up weight and size and find refuge from predators. โThe public awareness is basically the water issues in the Central Valley,โ says Haveman. โThis is the most vital resource and everybody can access here in California, and it starts in that river system and ends on the dinner plate.โ Lindley thinks that the California WaterFix plan is a step in the right direction as far as making the state a little more resistant to drought and helping revive fish populations. The $20 billion program would utilize pumps and tunnels under the delta that would allow water to be taken out more efficiently. In the current system, a large amount of freshwater is pumped into the delta during the summer months to keep saltwater out, which is not only a waste of water but creates a big lake-like environment for freshwater fish to eat juvenile salmon, says Lindley. There has been success on the Columbia River since 2005, when water managers were required to begin opening the reservoirs every springtime, says McManus. โItโs worked wonders. The salmon runs in the Columbia River have rebounded big time. And itโs because of this runoff, itโs artificial runoff but it mimics natural runoff, and it functions exactly the same way. It carries the baby salmon in that camouflaged turbidity rapidly down the river, which is all you need,โ McManus says. โSo, in California, if we had something like that we would see a real beneficial result, rapidly.โ
The Santa Cruz County Sheriffโs Department is slated to be the first agency in California to implement all 79 of President Obamaโs 21st Century Policing recommendations. Working with a community task force, the sheriff plans to identify the best way to provide an effective partnership between the community and law enforcement. It boils down to wanting to increase trust. โIn my 27 years in law enforcement I have never seen this level of public concern about police integrity,โ said Sheriff Jim Hart during a community meeting the sheriffโs department hosted on Jan. 21. Hart says these concerns have caused people to question police tactics, judgment and motives. โI believe that by reviewing our policy model and making some modifications, shifting our thinking, and being open to positive change, we will be a model as an exemplary law enforcement agency,โ he said. In response to ongoing nationwide concerns about policing, Obama signed an executive order forming a task force to pinpoint areas of improvement for law enforcement agencies in December 2014. The ensuing report, released in May, has spurred some law enforcement agencies, like the local sheriffโs department, to begin thinking about a shift. Hart assigned a task force of 20 deputies and 20 community members to examine and discuss the recommendations. At the event, which Congressmember Anna Eshoo attended, deputies announced plans to purchase body cameras, another move Obama has pushed for, although some activists have mixed feelings, based on privacy concerns. Rico Baker, a member of the Veterans for Peace Santa Cruz Chapter, tells GT heโs inspired that Hart is on board with the new task force, calling it groundbreaking. The community team, which includes Baker, is focusing on topics ranging from the best way to reintegrate convicted juveniles to the most effective way to involve the community in developing and evaluating procedures. The sheriffโs department is poised to finish this project in July. County Supervisor John Leopold said the board of supervisors will be reviewing what the sheriffโs department develops.ย
Colorful streamers weave in and out of the metal fence to the Beach Flats Community Garden, framing a large sign proclaiming โSave the Gardenโ and creating a vivid display for cars whizzing by on Third Street in Santa Cruz. Garden supporters created the artwork to bring continued attention to the community garden after a recent decision by the Santa Cruz City Council asking gardeners to vacate the garden in order to reconfigure it. The notice to vacate was an unexpected addendum to a resolution passed on Oct. 27, when the City Council voted unanimously to โnegotiate with the goal of acquisition of the current Beach Flats Garden property to allow it to continue permanently as a community garden operated by the city.โ This sounded like a win for gardeners and community supporters, who have been in limbo since March of last year, when the city issued a notice that the Seaside Company, which owns the land, would be reclaiming most of the parcel for its own landscaping purposes. โAfter the resolution, the gardeners put lots of trust in the city,โ garden supporter Senka Pavisic says. Then in January, the council issued new terms to the gardeners. City officials said that they would only negotiate with the Seaside Company to buy the land if the gardeners were to vacate the premises on Jan. 20, something the gardeners have yet to do. They are also calling on gardeners to sign a letter wherein they agree to surrender 40 percent of the land to the Seaside Company, which owns the land and the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. The city plans to reconfigure the remaining parcel.
โI have garlic that is this high,โ he says, using his fingers to indicate about 6 inches. โWhat am I supposed to do? Tear it up? It is just a little baby.โ
โWeโve been trying to work with the gardeners because that is what we have a lease for,โ city manager Martรญn Bernal says, stressing that the original date to leave was November and that originally the remaining garden would be much smaller. City officials point out that there are two projects in play. The first is reconfiguring a smaller, interim garden on the 60 percent of the land the Seaside Company has agreed to lease to the city for the next three years. The second is making a plan for a long-term community garden in the city. Bernal says that before they can move forward in negotiations with the Seaside Company, they first need to return the 40 percent of the land that the city does not have a lease for. โIt is hard to negotiate with someone when you havenโt even complied with the first thing you said you would do,โ he says. The notice to leave part of the land was still disheartening to the gardeners and their supporters. โI thought they were going to help us, but now it seems like they are not,โ says Don Emilio Martinez Castaรฑeda, a founder of the garden and 25-year resident. His plot is on the 40 percent slated for removal. For him, moving his plot would mean losing his decades-old nopales cactus and over two decades of investment in the soil. โI have garlic that is this high,โ he says, using his fingers to indicate about 6 inches. โWhat am I supposed to do? Tear it up? It is just a little baby.โ Castaรฑeda helped write and submit a letter to city council on Jan. 25, which was signed by 17 gardeners. The letter states that the gardeners โare confident that the city will do everything it can to purchase the landโ and calls for โa more favorable solution for all.โ The letter ends by stating that the undersigned gardeners intend to continue gardening the entire plot. Only one signed the letter that the city sent them. The group launched a fundraising campaign on Monday, Feb. 1, to try and help the city purchase the space. โMany of the gardeners are focused on the entire garden,โ says Director of Parks and Recreation Dannettee Shoemaker. She has been trying to work with gardeners to redesign the smaller interim garden, but has had trouble finding willing participants. Their cause has gotten some high-profile attention. United Farmworkers co-founder Dolores Huerta toured the garden on Nov. 13, offering words of encouragement. โThereโs people out there that are manipulating the food supply, so we have to counter that with things like a community garden,โ Huerta said. A few days later, rock icon Patti Smith, who was in town with her new book, endorsed the fight on stage, saying โLetโs save our gardens! We donโt need any more fucking buildings!โ The gardeners and supporters hope that the community response, as well as the vitality of the garden to the community, can turn their situation around. โThis garden is essential for the community. It is food security,โ says Pavisic. โThere are plenty of places that the Seaside Company can put their landscaping business. If we lose the garden, who gets hurt in that situation? Seaside doesnโt, the city doesnโt, the community does.โ Amidst the back and forth, the future of the garden remains uncertain, even to city officials. โHow it will turn out?โ says Shoemaker. โHonestly, Iโm not sure.โ
Back at my first newspaper job at the Watsonville Register-Pajaronian, I wrote a story about how the long-term projections for the California salmon population were alarming. Two decades later, those numbers didnโt turn out to be accurate. In fact, the reality is far worse than what scientists and fishermen were able to imagine then. Maria Grusauskasโ cover story this week explains why. From rising ocean temperatures to how an unforeseen crop trend in the Central Valley is killing off salmon before they even reach the Monterey Bay, her story puts together the pieces to create a clear picture of how we got here.
Just as importantly, it explains why it matters. Salmon play a remarkable role in shaping our ecosystem that very few of us understandโbut after reading this story, you will.
Lastly, a quick update, also on the topic of conservation and our link to the natural world: last year, I wrote about Santa Cruzโs internationally renowned nature photographer Frans Lanting, and mentioned he would be doing a show locally in 2016 featuring his photos from the Monterey Bay. That event, โFranโs Lantingโs Bay of Life,โ is coming to the Rio this Saturday, Feb. 6. Lanting will share images and stories at two shows, at 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. For ticket information, go to lanting.com.
STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Bottled Up
Re: โBubbling Upโ (GT, 1/27): I applaud Mr. Owโs forward thinking (as always) and the realization of his dreams with the Westside project. He has created less expensive space for inventors and artists, which is sorely needed in Santa Cruzโs ever-more-costly rental market.
One thing only, regarding LifeAID/FitAID, athletes have more than their share of healthy beverages shelf space. The cost to the already plastic-polluted environment and of additional water usage are a definite downside, and I think leasing/rental agents should reconsider signing with bottled-drink entrepreneurs.
Kathy Cheer
Santa Cruz
Bad Strategy
Re: โFury Roadโ (GT, 12/23): Freeway protests are bad strategy. They frighten and endanger and alienate people who are not responsible for the problem being protested against. They lose support. Social change only happens when there is widespread support for the change. Blocking freeways and airports attracts attention, but gains no support, no solidarity.
History shows us many truly effective ways to change a societal problem, ways that do not just end up looking like a tantrum. Blockading corporate offices, arms factories, polluting businesses, etc. also get attention but make sense and deal directly with those responsible. Organized actions that do not cause problems for passers-by show consideration for the public, so the public is more inclined to pay attention to the idea and to support it. Lining overpasses and sides of freeways with signs and banners for miles, without harassment of bystanders, without blocking traffic, would make drivers feel communicated with, not hassled and endangered and unfairly blamed. ย Successful protests are those that gain more and more support for the cause. Successful protests involve real strategy.
Kathleen Miller
Aptos
Online Comments Re: โCatching Fiberโ
This partnership is one of the best things the City of Santa Cruz has ever undertaken. As an IT professional, I can’t find anything bad about this project. The benefits are numerous and widespread. The risks are extremely minimal. Everyone wins, except maybe Comcast and AT&T. ย Personally, it canโt get here fast enough for me.
โ ย John Rickard
Re: โBubbling Upโ
Hi Kara Guzman. So well-written. Thank you for putting such good and thorough energy into this story. I know the story well and am very impressed by your research and understanding of the building and businesses.
โ George Ow, Jr.
There are other great businesses in the building, too. Tao San Fitness & Martial Arts was one of the first few business to rent space in the building. When we first moved in, there was only drywall and concrete floors. Now we have a beautiful, 3,000-plus square-foot studio space with 18 hanging heavy bags for our Fit-Boxing classes, as well as a separate room for Personal Training, Self-Defense and Martial Arts classes.
โ Salvetoria Larter Re: Rail of a Trail
We do not need a train at astronomical prices running through our town. Pull up the tracks and put in a trail, it will get way more use and is more ecological. I could go on and on, but just ask who profits by a rail to be subsidized at $12 million a year.
โ Tom Haid
Thanks for the article. I do not understand why anyone would be against this. A bargain at twice the price. Once people start to see what this can be, they are going to be so thankful that so many worked hard to make this happen for our county. Although [itโs true that] the Capitola/Santa Cruz leg is needed the most, it seems to me that the first legs that are being completed are easier to accomplish. Itโs important for people to see how great this is going to be so that they will support the entire thing.
โ Linda Rosewood
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GOOD IDEA
RIDE ON
The Box Bike Collective, a new Santa Cruz-based business, has started building innovative, easy-to-ride cargo bicycles and launched a Kickstarter campaign to fund them. The bikes have a box behind the front wheel, making it easier to carry kids, groceries and surfboards, and a battery to help with the pedaling, says founder Alex Yasbek. He says he always loved bike commuting and decided he didnรขโฌโขt want to give it up when he had a kid.
GOOD WORK
CURTAIN CALL
Weรขโฌโขd like to take a second to honor the service of Dennis Popper, also known as TuPop Sha-Corn, the hardest-workingรขโฌโor at least funniest-namedรขโฌโpopcorn maker in the business. The popcorn maker is now gone, and its former home, Aptos Cinemas, has been gutted. The 45-year-old institution closed Jan. 26, after Landmark Theatres announced its lease at the Rancho Del Mar Shopping Center had not been renewed. Thanks for the memories, Mr. Popper. You always left us feeling buttered up.
QUOTE OF THE WEEK
รขโฌลSomeone may offer you a freshly caught whole large fish, like a salmon or striped bass. Don’t panic. Take it!รขโฌย
As he points out items in his 41st Avenue shop, Jarrad Pecoraro, the director of Herbal Cruz, sounds more like Willy Wonka than a marijuana expert. โOver here we have everything from ice cream and frozen popsicles to blueberries covered in chocolate, espresso beans covered in chocolate and candy bars of every flavor,โ he says. Along with more than 100 strains of cannabis flowersโthe buds and blossoms that most people think of when they imagine cannabisโHerbal Cruzโs shelves boast iced teas, bubble gum, medicinal balms and ointments, saltwater taffy, cupcakes and cookies. Unlike whatโs available on the black market, everything at Herbal Cruz has been properly weighed and lab tested to ensure patients know what they are getting.
Scores of cities and a half a dozen counties have approved bans [on cannabis].ย โThe term in the industry is โBanapalooza.โโโ
But not everything is sweet for the medical marijuana industry, with growers and patients trying to navigate an ever-changing landscape of marijuana laws and enforcement policies. Cultivation laws have been the blazing question at the center of the cannabis issue both in Santa Cruz County and across the nation. Locally, a 13-member advisory panel called the Cannabis Cultivation Choices Committeeโor C4, for shortโwas chosen last year by the Santa Cruz County Board of Supervisors to tackle that question. Five of the C4โs members were chosen to represent county supervisors and their constituents; five more were picked to represent the cannabis industry; and three members were added for their โknowledge of land use, neighborhood issues, environmental protection or the medicinal value of cannabis.โ But while the C4 was poring over details last October, Gov. Jerry Brown signed the Medicinal Marijuana Regulation and Safety Act (MMRSA). The bill not only formed the Bureau of Medicinal Marijuana Regulation, but also set a controversial March 1 deadline for all cities and counties to present regulatory and licensing programsโa provision lawmakers say slipped in by accident. A bill is currently awaiting a vote in the assembly to undo the โmistake.โ In the meantime, many communities have responded by completely banning cannabis altogether. So far, scores of cities and a half a dozen counties have approved bans. โThe term in the industry is โBanapalooza,โโโ says Patrick Malo, co-founder of Santa Cruzโs Cannabis Advocates Alliance (CAA), and a C4 member.
In Weed We Trust
Instead of giving in, the C4 is working to sort out the complex issues that swirl around a booming industry. There are currently 18 states that allow medicinal use, and in the last four years, five states have legalized recreational cannabis use. ArcView Market Research, based in Oakland, estimates the value of Californiaโs legal cannabis industry was a whopping $1.3 billion in 2015. Business is blossoming locally, as well. Between November 2014 and October 2015, Santa Cruz County marijuana tax revenues of $1.95 million exceeded officialsโ estimates. Patients pay the standard 8.25 percent sales tax as they would for any product at any other store. On top of that, the 14 regional brick-and-mortar dispensaries also pay an additional 7 percent tax, exclusive to their industry. โWe donโt pass that on to our patients,โ Pecoraro says. Despite the rise in recreational and medicinal cannabis use throughout the country, the cultivation of commercial cannabis has a sticky history, thanks to rapidly changing lawsโand itโs been no different in Santa Cruz County. In 2014, the Board of Supervisors ratified County Code 7.126, which legalized cultivation for commercial medicinal use, limiting farmers to 99 plants. Many advocates in the cannabis community believed this was problematic due to the difference in size between outdoor and indoor yields. It also raised concern because it called for all farmers in the county to be tied to a local dispensary, while most cultivators elsewhere service several dispensaries throughout the state. A year later, everything went up in smoke. In March of 2015, citing environmental concerns along with neighborhood complaints of light and noise pollution, the board repealed 7.126, ratifying a new ordinance that banned commercial cultivation and limited each grow to a 100-square-foot space for personal use only. The new language also removed much of the limited protection given to farmers. Anxiety ignited soon after, with reform-minded grower groups like the CAA forming in direct response to that proposed ban. โSanta Cruz has a long history of progressive politics, and has always been a leader on the cannabis front,โ explains Malo. Two months later, advocates filed a ballot referendum to repeal the changes, gaining 11,210 signatures, well over the 7,248 signatures needed to qualify. Afraid of losing at the ballot, the board repealed its ban, reverted back to the previous rules and created the C4 committee to craft some innovative reforms.
Consensus Builders
The committee was designed to draw up specific recommendations for the legal, commercial cultivation of cannabis within the county while taking into consideration the concerns of patients and neighborhoods. It also aims to provide a framework for the county to cope with pot legalization, which many expect California voters to approve this year. So far, the C4 has gone on field trips to dispensaries, farms and areas damaged by mismanaged farms. And with stakeholders that have wildly different views, the process has been anything but speedy. But it has helped create the framework for a new licensing program that County Counsel Dana McRae introduced in December. The Medical Cannabis Cultivation Licensing Program appoints an officer to distribute one of two licenses for cultivationโa โCottage Gardenโ license for 200 square feet of covered space or a large-scale cultivator license for 500 square feet. The program also calls for several suggestions discussed by the C4, including lifting the โcounty onlyโ sale regulations to allow farmers to supply dispensaries throughout the state. (Pecoraro estimates 70 percent of Herbal Cruzโs items come from within Santa Cruz County.) The program set a March 1 deadline for the C4 to work out the details. In its Jan. 21 meeting, the C4 took a vote on the details of how the stateโs latest rules will now affect growers in the coming years. Most of the meeting was spent balancing the best way to protect the sanctity and safety of county neighborhoods with the livelihoods of farmers and the health of patients. โThe problems the neighborhoods faced that caused the county to put the reactive ban in the first place are real problems associated with an unregulated market,โ Malo says. โWeโre trying to form a regulated market to bring in the people who have been doing their very best to follow the law.โ
New York is an important place for singer-songwriter Tor Miller. Itโs the place of his birth, and, when his family left to relocate to New Jersey, the place he always dreamed of returning to.
Millerโs breakout indie single from 2015, โMidnight,โ is all about New York. The song evokes imagery of the 1970s New York punk scene, along with a timeless sense of roaming the city streets and feeling its historyโsomething Miller does for inspiration.
โAt the time I was writing โMidnightโ I was reading Please Kill Me: The Uncensored Oral History of Punk, and Patti Smithโs book, so I was getting super inspired,โ Miller says. โNew York, I think, plays into everything I do. I draw a lot of inspiration from the streets and the places I go, and everything that the city has to offer. Itโs tremendously important to the music I make. The artists who have been here and have performed here are all very inspiring to me.โ
As important as New York is to him, it was in New Jersey that he stumbled upon what would take him back to his beloved city in the end: music. At the age of 10, new to Jersey, Miller started taking piano lessons. His teacher encouraged him to not just play other artistsโ songs, but to write his own.
โHe was the catalyst for a lot of those things. Around that same time I was listening to Ziggy Stardust [and] Elton Johnโs Greatest Hits. I was finding my musical tastes that coincided with the writing,โ Miller says.
On Millerโs debut EP, Headlights, which he released on Glassnote Records in early 2015, his Bowie and Elton John influences are prominent, as is a subtly dark, gritty vibe. He cites Lou Reed and Tom Waits as being important influences. The four tunes on his EP are all earnest piano ballads sung with emotion and catchy hooks. There is polish to the recording, but they arenโt without a flawed human element.
On Glassnote Records, Miller shares a roster with groups like Chvrches, Mumford & Sons and Phoenix. Miller was signed by Daniel Glass himself, the owner of the label, about a year before the release of Headlights. Glass caught Miller playing at the Rockwood Music Hall in New York, where he had a residency.
Currently Miller is putting the final touches on his debut full-length album, due out later this year. Heโs already released one song off the record, โCarter and Cash,โ which is a little bit of a departure from the piano-driven sound on Headlights. The song has a full band, with elements of โ80s synth-pop/New Wave.
โThis new album will have much bigger arrangementsโa lot of the same sort of ballads, the vulnerability, and talking about the same sort of things as the EPโbut just on a much bigger scale,โ Miller says. โWhen I was making that EP we didnโt have much money and we didnโt have much time. Itโs not as if all my artistic ideas could be fulfilled. This record is a bit more of what my imagination has. We have strings and horns, thereโs a lot going on. Itโs a much bigger sound.โ
Miller has already gotten some heads turning from the EP and hopes the full-length will do the same. Itโs a much more diverse record and represents the great scope of his creative vision, pulling from his repertoire over the past three years as a songwriter. (Both โMidnightโ and the song โHeadlightsโ from the EP will be on it.)
โThey signed me to be myself. I picked my producers, I picked everyone around me,โ Miller says. โIโm pretty excited to get it out there. Iโve been sitting on it for a long time. I tried to imagine this album as a live set: You want your fast, high-paced moments, and the low introspective ballads. I didnโt want to have an album that was flatlined, my musical tastes are broad. I hope it comes through.โ
There are countless local wineries and breweries, but Venus Spirits is offering something differentโhard alcohol made in small batches with local handmade ingredients.
Owner Sean Venus started selling his spirits in 2014, and opened a tasting room last year. His bottles are found in approximately 300 stores in California. Now, with a new law thatโs passed in 2016, he is hoping to start selling bottles of his spirits at his tasting room in the very near future. GT: How could Californiaโs new liquor law affect your tasting room?
SEAN VENUS: We donโt serve cocktails now. We just pour small tastings of each one of our spirits. We usually start off with our gin, go to our agave spirits and finish off with our whiskies. When people come in, we talk about how you can apply our spirits to a cocktail. Itโs our hope with the new law that the city will allow us to serve little mini-cocktails. What weโd be doing is pouring our spirits, then pouring our representation of a cocktail, so this is how you could pour this spirit at home. Before doing this, I knew nothing about cocktails. My background was beer. I enjoyed my whiskey straight. Each one of our spirits pairs very well with some classic cocktails. There are some people that are doing some interesting things with our spirits. Like Paper Plane in San Jose is doing a cocktail with our aquavit thatโs a cucumber soda base and Cocchi Americano, and they serve it on draft. Thereโs a lot of different applications for cocktails. Weโre trying to highlight that on our website. What inspired the switch from beer lover to spirit maker?
Whiskey was definitely my focus. Thereโs just a lore and love for American whiskey, and itโs growing in popularity now, itโs recognized globally. I think thatโs why itโs everyoneโs inspiration. Now we do two lines of gin, one thatโs a clear, one thatโs a barrel rusted. We also do an aquavitโitโs a Scandinavian spirit. Then we have a line called El Ladrรณn. Itโs our agave spirit line. Itโs similar to tequila in that we make it from agave, but itโs a little different. Then we have two wayward whiskies, a single malt, and a rye. Whatโs different about doing spirits in small batches?
A small batch for us is around 500 bottles at a time. Our stills are 125- and 250-gallon stills. Theyโre quite small. We do everything here by hand. Weโre manually moderating the stills, opening and closing the valves, and hand-bottling stuff and hand-labeling. Itโs a very artisanal approach to it. Because weโre not doing large batches, our stuff isnโt homogeneous, so there are subtleties from batch to batch, which we celebrate. Every bottle is hand-labeled and each batch number is written on there, so thereโs opportunities for our community to enjoy our whisky and try batch 5 and compare it to batch 6.
The latest production from Jewel Theatre Company is as light and bubbly as the champagne the characters quaff incessantly onstage. For the companyโs second offering at their new home, the Colligan Theater at the Tannery, Artistic Director Julie James has chosen Noel Cowardโs crowd-pleasing farce Fallen Angels.
The playโs subject matter, that women might be capable of having sexual lives outside of marriage, was considered quite racy in its day. Even though its day was 1925โsmack in the middle of the postwar, anything-goes Jazz Age, when sexuality was obviously a fact of lifeโit was still not something usually discussed onstage. But Coward got away with it using his trademark wit and grace, depicting not an affair, but its aftermath, and providing wry commentary on what happens when the wild past of two proper, married English ladies comes back to haunt (and entice) them.
The production is directed by Art Manke, veteran of both Santa Cruz Shakespeare (last summerโs hilarious The Liar), and JTC (the equally hilarious What the Butler Saw). Manke is also an expert on Coward, having directed nine productions of his work, and it shows in the fleet pacing and style he brings to this vivacious show. Cowardโs Fallen Angels combines elements of the cult TV hit Absolutely Fabulous and its dizzy, champers-swilling girlfriends, with plenty of 1920s chic.
Julia Sterroll (Nike Doukas) has been happily married to Fred Sterroll (Kit Wilder) for five years. (Their comfortable, powder-blue drawing room is the only set, masterfully detailed by scenic designer Tom Buderwitz to include a baby grand piano and a vintage Victrola.) On the morning Fred is leaving on an overnight golfing trip, they congratulate themselves that they still love each other, but they are no longer subject to the rash throes of being in love.
Fred heads off to the links with his buddy, Willy (Shaun Carroll). Julia looks forward to a weekend of โpracticing balletโ and amusing herself, until her best friend, Jane (Marcia Pizzo), Willyโs wife, rushes in with shocking news: a Frenchman named Maurice, with whom both ladies dallied seven years earlier, before they had even met their current husbands, has come to town. The ladies panic, desperate to keep their youthful indiscretions secret from their husbands. (โItโs unfair that men should have the monopoly on wild oats,โ Julia complains, to which Jane counters, โThey don’t, but we let them think they do.โ)
But what they really fear is that now that their marriages have become so settled, they wonโt be able to resist the Frenchmanโs charms. Yet somehow their initial plan to run away for the weekend evolves into the two of them awaiting Maurice in the Sterrollsโ flatโboth women in swanky evening dress and fortifying themselves with champagne. (Kudos to costume designers David Kay Mickelsen and B. Modern for all the elegant costume changesโincluding the plaid plus-fours of Fredโs golfing outfit.)
This extended comic sequence is the centerpiece of the play, a boozy riff on Waiting For Godot. Doukas and Pizzo are wonderfully funny as small, dark, outwardly composed Julia, and tall redhead Jane, hovering on the edge of hysteria. Egging each other on, they discuss love, sex, and romance; pratfall about the flat; and segue from sisterhood to rivalry to recrimination as the bubbly flows.
Wilder (better known for swashbuckling roles in The Three Musketeers and The Man in the Iron Mask with Shakespeare Santa Cruz), and JTC stalwart Carroll are just right as phlegmatic Fred and slightly more excitable Willy. Shaking the menfolk out of their complacency becomes the unspoken goal as the two couples meet the morning after to fling about accusations and speculation over whatโs happened. And J. Paul Boehmer is sublimely unflappable as the prodigal Maurice.
Finally, a word of praise for longtime JTC diva Diana Torres Kossโ scene-stealing turn as Saunders, the Sterrollsโ new maid. Nothing fazes the ferociously competent Saunders, and Koss is a riot throughout, whether answering the phone or sneaking over to the piano when no one else is about, entertaining the audience between scenes. She brings a little extra fizz to Cowardโs sparkling cocktail.
The Jewel Theatre Company production of Fallen Angels plays through Feb. 21 at the Colligan Theater at the Tannery. For ticket information, call 425-7506, or visit jeweltheatre.net.
