Co-owner Maria Alvarez describes Taqueria Los Viejones as the realization of a longtime dream for her husband, co-owner and chef Fernando Morales.
Alvarez says he loved cooking from childhood, especially traditional Mexican food, following that passion as he grew up locally and worked around town in the industry while keeping one eye focused on eventually owning his own restaurant.
Offered a food truck in 2020, Alvarez says she and Morales opened the door to this knocked opportunity and eventually parlayed the truck’s success into their recently opened permanent space on Water Street.
Taqueria Los Viejones has indoor and outdoor seating in an atmosphere Alvarez describes as homey, old-school and traditionally Mexican, with rustic orange and creamy beige colors, Mexican paintings and food served on handmade clay plates.
Alvarez says their signature offering is the classic slow-cooked beef quesabirria with melted, crispy cheese inside a homemade tortilla. Their street tacos offer al pastor, carne asada, grilled chicken and carnitas nestled in handmade tortillas and served alongside a grilled jalapeño, sliced cucumbers and radishes.
Other favoritos include the California burrito packed with French fries, avocado, cheese, chipotle sauce and a choice of meat, as well as chile rellenos, tostadas, enchiladas and both shrimp and fish ceviche. They also offer breakfast dishes such as chilaquiles and huevos rancheros, classic flan for dessert, and beverages including horchata and pineapple agua fresca.
Tell me about those homemade tortillas.
MARIA ALVAREZ: We use a white corn masa, making them in a very traditional way using my family’s classic heirloom tortilla press brought here from Mexico. We handmake them every day and mix the water and masa in the perfect ratio, then heat them on the comal. They come with most items on our menu and guests are often stunned by how good they are.
How has the food truck-to-brick-and-mortar evolution gone?
It’s been good having the restaurant, making my husband’s dream come true and also because guests were wanting to dine in and now they can. It’s a little easier having a permanent location. We have more space and have been able to expand our menu and showcase our Mexican culture. Food brings us together, and that is what we are trying to do here at our restaurant, spreading unity and love.
Taqueria Los Viejones: 736 Water St., Santa Cruz; 831-201-4443; enjoytaquerialosviejones.com.
