.Upper Level

The faux bookcase door that adds to the speakeasy feel of the pocket-sized gem that is Ulterior bar, tucked upstairs at 110 Pearl Alley, won’t be enough to keep this revelation quiet.

The things chef Donnie Suesens is doing in its modest kitchen are simply too fun and flavorful.

The former owner-operator of popular Cafe Sparrow in Aptos, which shuttered in April 2024, is drawing praise for his indulgent burger, loaded with bacon-cherry jam, Gruyère, smoked onion and (in an Australian twist) local beet, but there’s more going on here, namely a lot of crave for a super short menu.

Other whoa-level items (all $11-$17): an “elote dawg” with a cheesy Bavarian frank, corn, Japanese aioli and Tajín; a pork sausage wrapped Scotch egg; Nashville hot honey cheese sticks; and an inspired “crunchwrap supreme” with multiple cheeses.

Given his tagline, the fact his limited menu is generating a lot of buzz makes sense. That motto: “remember to break bread and let the food talk!”

AWAY WE GO

One of the area’s better restaurants has a baby sister on the way. Chef Brad Briske and his partner Linda Ritten are adding a casual spinoff of their acclaimed Soquel restaurant Home with Home Away, in the former VinoCruz/Adorable French Bakery location (4901 Soquel Drive, Soquel). The working blueprint: Open doors by the end of June, with a strong to-go section, lunch like soup, salad and cheesy focaccia, then wine and housemade charcuterie, patés, pickles, cheeses and sausages, plus crudo and ceviches prepared at the raw bar—and even some creative empanadas from Briske brother-in-law Diego Felix of Fonda Felix—with hours midday to 8pm Wednesday to Sunday, homesoquel.com.

HUMBLE RUMBLE

The burgeoning dynasty that is Humble Sea Brewing just launched its newest chapter: HSB San Francisco opened last Friday on iconic Pier 39. As Surf City takes over the big city, more pier beer cracks open closer to home, as HSB’s Wharf Beer Garden is back open for summer, with new hours 3-9pm Monday-Thursday and noon-9pm Friday-Sunday. GOAT sunset rides also return 5:30pm and 6:30pm Wednesdays. And Cococ Food Truck rolls up Tuesday-Sunday dishing tacos and bowls with concinita pibil, chicken mole, carnitas rancheras and rajas con elote and five fresh salsas, humblesea.com, cococthefoodtruck.com.

READY FOR MARKET

“So much anticipation. A million conversations, ideas, visions built and scratched.” So reads an exuberant statement from Nicole Zahm, comms and programs manager of Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets, announcing the May 21 debut of the new location of the Downtown Farmers Market at the corner of Cedar and Church, ahead of its eventual permanent home in the Civic District of the downtown corridor. From 1-5pm Wednesday, May 21, she adds, “We will be staffed up and bolstered, rolling out a festive first day for you,” with bike-blender smoothies, Santa Cruz Public Libraries activities, fun zone, Annie Rye and the Wild Flour String Band, free short-term parking for market-goers and more, santacruzfarmersmarket.org. [Editor’s note: Market reopening delayed to June 4.]

LIFE FORCE

Staff of Life celebrates 56 years as a locally owned natural foods store Friday-Sunday, May 16-18, by stoking its client base with a weekend’s worth of demos and tastings. Friday 11am-2pm the activity includes their famous cheeseburgers, sausage sandwiches and hand-cut fries, followed by SmartChicken teaching and tasting, plus noon-6pm wine and beer sampling. Saturday means more wine-and-beer tasting noon-4pm, more food demos, deals on hot and salad bars, and $2 off smoothies and juices. Sunday piles on more demos, discounts, wine-beer sips and $4 gelatos. “What started as a small local organic bakery has grown into a community hub rooted in sustainability, wellness and trust,” owner Gary Bascou says. “This anniversary is not just about looking back, it’s about celebrating the people, farmers and customers who’ve supported us every step of the way.” staffoflifemarket.com.