Storrs Winery’s Perfectly Balanced Zinfandel 2017

The Sunset International Wine competition awarded Storrs Wineryโ€™s 2017 Central Coast Zinfandel a gold medal. And when you taste it, youโ€™ll see why. Abundant flavors of cherry and soft vanilla make this a mouthful of terrific Zinโ€”with โ€œa perfect balance between spice, fruit and oak.โ€

With its jammy fruit and pepper notes, Zinfandel is one of my favorites. This one made by Stephen Storrs is a winner. Typical aromas of dark fruits and spice round out this well-made Zinfandel ($26), and its dense flavors give it lots of backbone. โ€œOur only regret,โ€ says Storrs of the Zin, โ€œwe didnโ€™t make enough.โ€

Stephen and Pamela Storrs have been in the wine business for a long timeโ€”and their tasting room in a country setting in the Aptos Hills is a delightful place to visit. You might even see the Southdown sheep brought in to munch on pesky weeds between the vinesโ€”their contribution to biodiversity.

Storrs Winery, 1560 Pleasant Valley Road, Aptos, 831-724-5030; Storrs Winery main tasting room in downtown Santa Cruz, 303 Potrero St., No. 35 (in the old Sash Mill complex), Santa Cruz, 831-458-5030. storrswine.com.

Whiskey Hill Farms

A recent tour of Whiskey Hill Farms in Corralitos was tremendously interesting. A friend of mine is doing some work there and offered to show me around. This wonderful place grows the most amazing produceโ€”mangoes, passion fruit, papaya and a host of beneficial plants such as ginger, turmeric, basil and cilantro, all organic. 

Five gigantic greenhouses are heated by pipes that run beneath compost pilesโ€”and frogs roam free in collected-rainwater troughs used for irrigation. Inside each of the greenhouses reminds me of the tropics, with the pungent smell of rich earth and damp foliage.

This biodynamic spot of impressive agriculture is also where owner David Blume makes 100% organic sanitizers (with co-founder of the business Tom Harvey) under his label Blume Organics. These sanitizers contain no toxic chemicals and are safe on skin and surfaces.

For more information on these projects and to shop online, visit whiskeyhillfarms.com and blumesorganics.com.

Holy Smokes Country Barbeque Creates Divine Flavors in Smoking Style

Holy Smokes Country Barbeque and Catering is a family-owned, family-run restaurant and catering business that is all about serving divine flavors in a down-home cooking style.

Owner Janis Cota started catering barbeque 25 years ago as a side business, and after she retired Holy Smokes Barbeque became her full-time passion project. She expanded by opening her restaurant two years ago, and all three of her children work there. They are currently open Wednesday-Sunday from 11:30am-8:30pm for takeout, as well as outdoor dining in their beer garden barbeque patio. Cota tells GT about her barbeque ethos and some of the standout food that makes her business so popular.

What is your philosophy on barbeque, and what style of barbeque do you serve?

JANIS COTA: People ask me a lot what style barbeque we are, and I always tell them that we are truly our own style. Our barbeque smoker is low and slow and has a rotisserie as well. We house-make all of our rubs and sauces. Our sides are all house-made as well. We have a good variety, and most of them are gluten-free and some are vegetarian. We try to use whatโ€™s around us, sourcing locally and from farmersโ€™ markets, and for our barbeque we certainly try to get the very best meats. Basically, our philosophy is to serve consistently great barbeque and switch it up and get creative with our specials. I make it all myself, and I wouldnโ€™t serve anything that I wouldnโ€™t eat myself. Itโ€™s all about momโ€™s recipes. We try to make it all taste like momโ€™s homemade barbeque.

What are a few of the house specialties?

My favorite items are the brisket and ribs. We smoke the brisket for about 13 hours; it has crispy burnt ends and a crunchy crust, which people really love. The meat is very tender and juicy, it just falls apart in the fingers, and people love the seasoning on the crust. Itโ€™s also served with a house-made horseradish dipping sauce that people really enjoy as well, and all of our barbeque plates come with a pickle, garlic bread and choice of two sides. The baby-back pork ribs have a prominent smoke ring around the sides and are finished with a barbeque sauce glaze so that itโ€™s really cooked into the meat. Theyโ€™re very juicy and tender and just melt in your mouth.

21505 East Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz. 831-471-8787, holysmokescountrybbqandcatering.com.

Letter to the Editor: Monarchs Here to Stay

Thank you Adriana Gores for your thoughtful letter (Re: โ€œLosing the Monarchsโ€) regarding the Monarch decline and ongoing milkweed debate. 

As scientists continue to promote a theory of entropy, Santa Cruz locals have a different perspective. While the numbers of Monarchs migrating to overwintering sites have declined, the Monarch population throughout Santa Cruz has had a booming year, creating a “Santa Cruz Paradox.”  Monarchs are everywhere!

Thanks to residents planting beautiful pollinator gardens during the pandemic, Santa Cruz has become an ideal habitat for Monarchs to live and breed. The Monarchs are here to stay!!

Fiona Fairchild | Santa Cruz


This letter does not necessarily reflect the views of Good Times.

To submit a letter to the editor of Good Times: Letters should be originalsโ€”not copies of letters sent to other publications. Please include your name and email address to help us verify your submission (email address will not be published). Please be brief. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and to correct factual inaccuracies known to us. Send letters to le*****@*******es.sc

Letter to the Editor: Cold, Hard Proof

Texasโ€™s power generators and infrastructure were not designed to withstand this past weekโ€™s freezing temperatures as low as three degrees; resultantly, people are suffering.

Northern Californians did not plan on having to create forest fire evacuation plans back in June of 2020, but they were forced to. The current effects of climate change on our country and our state are cause for grave, urgent concern. As a California resident, I am constantly worried about the safety of myself, my loved ones and my home. Climate change is caused by the carbon emissions produced when we use dirty energy sources, such as oil and fracking. Weโ€™re never really conscious of our usage of these energy sources and the way they destroy our environment, but our political leaders are conscious and fully aware of the damage being done.

That is why we need to directly reach out to our California Governor, Gavin Newsom, and request that he have our state switch over to 100% clean renewable energy by 2030. If we donโ€™t make that switch, the grief climate change is causing will only continue to get worse.

Sarah Boyer | UCSC Calpirg Intern


This letter does not necessarily reflect the views of Good Times.

To submit a letter to the editor of Good Times: Letters should be originalsโ€”not copies of letters sent to other publications. Please include your name and email address to help us verify your submission (email address will not be published). Please be brief. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and to correct factual inaccuracies known to us. Send letters to le*****@*******es.sc


Letter to the Editor: True Grid

Climate change, Covid, and a collapsing economy are one thing. But a crossword puzzle with the wrong grid? Now I’m mad.

Michael Levy | Santa Cruz

Itโ€™s true! We ran the wrong grid for the New York Times Crossword Puzzle last week, and we apologize for the error. You know we canโ€™t stand to see you mad, Michael! Letโ€™s hug it out โ€ฆ after we get vaccinated. โ€” Editor


This letter does not necessarily reflect the views of Good Times.

To submit a letter to the editor of Good Times: Letters should be originalsโ€”not copies of letters sent to other publications. Please include your name and email address to help us verify your submission (email address will not be published). Please be brief. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and to correct factual inaccuracies known to us. Send letters to le*****@*******es.sc


Letter to the Editor: First-Rate Reporting

I appreciate the first-rate journalism evident in Liza Monroyโ€™s well-researched and balanced piece โ€œBurn Scarsโ€ (GT, 2/17). 

An in-depth account of one familyโ€™s reluctant decision to relocate to Arizona after the CZU fires and the ongoing threats of debris flow was interwoven with a range of other perspectives, some grounded in science (how nice!) and others in personal and community points of view. And all of this without interjecting any sense of blame or judgment. Great reporting.  

Wendy Martyna| Santa Cruz


This letter does not necessarily reflect the views of Good Times.

To submit a letter to the editor of Good Times: Letters should be originalsโ€”not copies of letters sent to other publications. Please include your name and email address to help us verify your submission (email address will not be published). Please be brief. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and to correct factual inaccuracies known to us. Send letters to le*****@*******es.sc


Opinion: The Insightful Interviews That Stick With You

EDITOR’S NOTE

Itโ€™s always important to prepare plenty of questions for an interview, but itโ€™s the questions you donโ€™t prepare that often end up being the most important. Those are the ones that rise organically out of the conversation, and can lead it in a direction I donโ€™t expect. But even though I know it works like that, I still wasnโ€™t prepared for the way talking to Bay Area author Tommy Orange would get my brain working overtime and have me so engaged in the conversation I barely even glanced at my notes. I was too busy trying to hold on to each thing heโ€™d just said, so I could address the new burst of thoughts and questions that it raised before we were on to another topic.

Itโ€™s ironic that my first questionโ€”an actual planned one!โ€”was about the way Orangeโ€™s novel There There is packed with ideas, because based on my experience itโ€™s an extension of how he engages with the world in general. There are certain interviews that stick with you long after youโ€™ve written about them, and Iโ€™m sure this will be one of them.

All of this also provides some insight into why Orange was a great choice to be the center of the Humanities Institute at UCSCโ€™s Deep Read this year. They got the program off to an auspicious start with Margaret Atwood last year, and Orange is an exciting follow up. There are details about his March 3 live Zoom event at the end of my cover story. I really encourage you to check it out!

STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

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PHOTO CONTEST WINNER

The photographerโ€™s dog Gunnar in a field of flowers off Highway 1 near Davenport. Photograph by Rick Ward.

Submit to ph****@*******es.sc. Include information (location, etc.) and your name. Photos may be cropped. Preferably, photos should be 4 inches by 4 inches and minimum 250dpi.


GOOD IDEA

CONNECTING CAPITAL

The number of black-owned businesses across the county dropped by 41% in the first two months of the pandemic alone. The Inclusivity Project, launched on Feb. 16 by the Small Business Development Center of Northern California, will tackle this issue by connecting 1,000 black entrepreneurs with $100 million in capital. Along with supporting existing businesses, the project plans to launch 100 more black-owned businesses in Northern California. For more information about the project, visit theinclusivityproject.com/about/#sbdc.

ย 


GOOD WORK

CARD CONNECTION

The I-You Venture through the Family Service Agency thanks the Santa Cruz community for sending 11,000 โ€œThinking of Youโ€ cards and 2,400 gifts to residents living in senior care facilities in Santa Cruz. Many people living in these facilities arenโ€™t permitted visitors, including family members, due to the risk of contracting Covid-19. Cards and gifts can help relieve some of the loneliness caused by social isolation. For more information on sending cards, visit fsa-cc.org/i-you-venture.


QUOTE OF THE WEEK

โ€œIf you canโ€™t say anything nice about anyone else, come sit next to me.โ€

-Gertrude Stein

Rob Brezsnyโ€™s Astrology: Feb. 24 – March 2

Free will astrology for the week of Feb. 24

ARIES (March 21-April 19): I invite you to think about one or two types of physical discomforts and symptoms that your body seems most susceptible to. Meditate on the possibility that there are specific moods or feelings associated with those discomforts and symptomsโ€”perhaps either caused by them or the cause of them. The next step is to formulate an intention to monitor any interactions that might transpire between the bodily states and emotional states. Then make a plan for how you will address them both with your own healing power whenever they visit you in the future.

TAURUS (April 20-May 20): Poet Billy Collins describes โ€œstanding on the edge of a lake on a moonlit night and the light of the moon is always pointing straight at you.โ€ I have high hopes that your entire life will be like that in the coming weeks: that youโ€™ll feel as if the world is alive with special messages just for you; that every situation youโ€™re in will feel like you belong there; that every intuition welling up from your subconscious mind into your conscious awareness will be specifically what you need at the moment it arrives.

GEMINI (May 21-June 20): Youโ€™re entering a potentially heroic phase of your astrological cycle. The coming weeks will be a time when I hope you will be motivated to raise your integrity and impeccability to record levels. To inspire you, Iโ€™ve grabbed a few affirmations from a moral code reputed to be written by a 14th-century Samurai warrior. Try saying them, and see if they rouse you to make your good character even better. 1. โ€œI have no divine power; I make honesty my divine power.โ€ 2. โ€œI have no miracles; I make right action my miracle.โ€ 3. โ€œI have no enemy; I make carelessness my enemy.โ€ 4. โ€œI have no designs; I make โ€˜seizing opportunityโ€™ my design.โ€ 5. โ€œI have no magic secrets; I make character my magic secret.โ€ 6. โ€œI have no armor; I make benevolence and righteousness my armor.โ€

CANCER (June 21-July 22): โ€œThe only way to live is by accepting each minute as an unrepeatable miracle,โ€ writes Cancerian author and Buddhist teacher Jack Kornfield. I disagree with him. There are many other modes of awareness that can be useful as we navigate our labyrinthine path through this crazy world. Regarding each minute as an opportunity to learn something new, for instance: Thatโ€™s an excellent way to live. Or, for another example, treating each minute as another chance to creatively express our love. But I do acknowledge that Kornfieldโ€™s approach is sublime and appealing. And I think it will be especially apropos for you during the coming weeks.

LEO (July 23-Aug. 22): The coming weeks will be a poignant and healing time for you to remember the people in your life who have diedโ€”as well as ancestors whom you never met or didnโ€™t know well. They have clues to offer you, rich feelings to nourish you with, course corrections to suggest. Get in touch with them through your dreams, meditations and reminiscences. Now read this inspiration from poet Rainer Maria Rilke: โ€œThey, who passed away long ago, still exist in us, as predisposition, as burden upon our fate, as murmuring blood, and as gesture that rises up from the depths of time.โ€ (Translation from the German by Stephen Mitchell.)

VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22): Iโ€™m fond of 18th-century Virgo painter Quentin de La Tour. Why? 1. He specialized in creating portraits that brought out his subjectsโ€™ charm and intelligence. 2. As he grew wealthier, he became a philanthropist who specialized in helping poor women and artists with disabilities. 3. While most painters of his era did self-portraits that were solemn, even ponderous, de La Tourโ€™s self-portraits showed him smiling and good-humored. 4. Later in his life, when being entirely reasonable was no longer a top priority, de La Tour enjoyed conversing with trees. In accordance with the astrological omens, I propose that we make him your patron saint for now. I hope youโ€™ll be inspired to tap into your inner Quentin de la Tour.

LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22): Iโ€™m not saying thereโ€™s anything wrong with your overall health, Libra. In fact, I expect itโ€™s probably quite adequate. But from an astrological point of view, now is the right time to schedule an appointment for a consultation with your favorite healer, even if just by Zoom. In addition, I urge you to consult a soul doctor for a complete metaphysical check-up. Chances are that your mental health is in fair shape, too. But right now itโ€™s not enough for your body and soul to be merely adequate; they need to receive intense doses of well-wrought love and nurturing. So I urge you to ask for omens and signs and dreams about what precisely you can do to treat yourself with exquisite care.

SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21): โ€œLove commands a vast army of moods,โ€ writes author Diane Ackerman. โ€œFrantic and serene, vigilant and calm, wrung-out and fortified, explosive and sedate.โ€ This fact of life will be prominently featured in your life during the coming weeks. Now is a fertile time to expand your understanding of how eros and romance work when theyโ€™re at their bestโ€”and to expand your repertoire of responses to loveโ€™s rich challenges. Donโ€™t think of it as a tough test; imagine it as an interesting research project.

SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21): Sagittarian poet and visual artist William Blake (1757โ€“1827) cultivated a close relationship with lofty thoughts and mystical visions. He lived with his wife Catherine for the last 45 years of his life, but there were times when he was so preoccupied with his amazing creations that he neglected his bond with her. Catherine once said, โ€œI have very little of Mr. Blakeโ€™s company. He is always in paradise.โ€ I hope that you wonโ€™t be like that in the coming weeks. Practical matters and intimate alliances need more of your attention than usual. Consider the possibility, at least for now, of spending less time in paradise and more on earth.

CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19): Poet Robert Graves regarded the ambiguity of poetry as a virtue, not a problem. In his view, poetryโ€™s inscrutability reflects lifeโ€™s true nature. As we read its enigmatic ideas and feelings, we may be inspired to understand that experience is too complex to be reduced to simplistic descriptions and overgeneralized beliefs. In fact, itโ€™s quite possible that if we invite poetry to retrain our perceptions, we will develop a more tolerant and inclusive perspective toward everything. Iโ€™m telling you this, Capricorn, because whether or not you read a lot of poetry in the coming weeks, it will be wise and healthy for you to celebrate, not just tolerate, how paradoxical and mysterious the world is.

AQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18): The coming weeks will be a favorable time to shed old habits that waste your energy, and create constructive new habits that will serve you well for months and years to come. To inspire and guide your efforts, I offer these thoughts from author and naturalist Henry David Thoreau: โ€œAs a single footstep will not make a path on the earth, so a single thought will not make a pathway in the mind. To make a deep physical path, we walk again and again. To make a deep mental path, we must think over and over the kind of thoughts we wish to dominate our lives.โ€

PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20): Piscean author Anais Nin was a maestro of metamorphosis, a virtuoso of variation, an adept at alteration. She regarded her ceaseless evolution as a privilege and luxury, not an oppressive inconvenience. โ€œI take pleasure in my transformations,โ€ she wrote. โ€œI look quiet and consistent, but few know how many women there are in me.โ€ Her approach is a healthy model for most of you Pisceansโ€”and will be especially worth adopting in the coming weeks. I invite you to be a change specialist whose nickname is Flux Mojo.

Homework: Complete this sentence: โ€œSooner or later the pandemic will lose its power to limit us. When it does, I will _______________.โ€ freewillastrology.com.

Bay Area Author Tommy Orange on the Mythmaking of History

Tommy Orange has a lot of theories about why his novel There There became a hit when it was released in 2018.

The most obvious explanation would be that this wildly structured bookโ€”which freely mixes a crime plot about a plan to rob an Oakland powwow of dance-competition money using 3D-printed guns, in-depth character studies and even fully nonfiction interludes about Native American traditions and the brutal history of violence against Native people in the United Statesโ€”is both deeply affecting and thrilling in the way it barrels through an endless supply of ideas.

That would account for the fact that it was a New York Times bestseller, and a 2019 Pulitzer Prize finalist. That same year, it won the 2019 Hemingway Foundation/PEN Award, as well as a National Book Award, and was shortlisted for the Andrew Carnegie Medal for Excellence in Fiction.

But Orange, a member of the Cheyenne and Arapaho tribes who grew up in Oakland, suspects it actually has something to do with the cultural moment the book was released in.

โ€œI have all kinds of theories about why the book became so popular,โ€ Orange tells me, โ€œand itโ€™s related to Trump, and the Dakota Access Pipeline and Standing Rock, and the timing of it all. I mean, I worked really hard on it, but I think itโ€™s always kind of luck and timing and hard work, all happening at once.โ€

I suspect there is yet another factor at work, as well, especially here in the Bay Area, where There There was number one on the San Francisco Chronicleโ€™s bestseller list. Not only is it possibly the best novel about the Bay Area in the last five years, but itโ€™s very much a book about place, and how our sense of the place we live in can be lostโ€”and whether it can ever be regained. The title refers to Gertrude Steinโ€™s famous quote about Oaklandโ€”โ€œThereโ€™s no there thereโ€โ€”and the book itself rips the understood meaning of that quote apart to reveal Steinโ€™s longing for the Oakland of her youth.

All over Northern Californiaโ€”not just Oakland, but also Santa Cruz, Silicon Valley, San Franciscoโ€”there is an increasing fear of losing oneโ€™s sense of place, no longer recognizing the cities and towns we fell in love with, becoming a stranger in our own land. In There There, Orange filters that fear through the lens of the Native people who first experienced it in this country.

This year, the Humanities Institute at UCSC has selected There There for its Deep Read program, which in the words of its organizers โ€œinvites the campus and community to think deeply about literature, art and the most pressing issues of the dayโ€ through a sort of community-wide book club that kicked off last year with guest author Margaret Atwood. This quarter, Porter College at UCSC is offering the class โ€œTommy Orange, There There, and the New Native Renaissanceโ€ in conjunction with the Deep Read. In advance of Orange participating in a live virtual event for the Deep Read on March 3, he spoke with me about the book, coming to grips with our own history and more.

The thing that overwhelmed me about โ€˜There Thereโ€™ is itโ€™s so packed with ideas, while still being a great story. Was that a hard balance to strike?

TOMMY ORANGE: Well, I definitely fell in love with the novel of ideas before I fell in love with the readable, fun novel. I really like that the novel can be a vehicle for ideas, and it can happen in a โ€œTrojan horseโ€ kind of way. Thatโ€™s not to say that I think the best books or the best novels should be crammed with ideas, but itโ€™s what drew me in at first. So when I was working on There There, it was definitely something I was trying to do. But I was also trying to strike the balance of having it be readable. Books that are full of ideas and not very readable, that kind of ruins the point of them being a vehicle. Itโ€™s like a very slow-moving vehicle with bad sceneryโ€”you donโ€™t really want to get into it. Youโ€™ve got to have cool things going on. So a marriage of those two things, readability and the novel of ideas, is definitely something that I set out to try to do. I never felt like I got word that I did it, so I appreciate you saying so.

What were some novels of ideas that inspired you?

There were a lot of New York Review of Books novels that I ended up reading, and the one that just jumped into my head probably sounds like the most boring one I could think of, but I loved it. Itโ€™s representative of the kind of book Iโ€™m talking about, because as opposed to following authors Iโ€™ve really followed publications and read a lot of random singular books, and not so much followed any tradition. I didnโ€™t go to school for [literature], I was totally self-taught up until my MFA, so my reading path has been really strange. Iโ€™m thinking of The World As I Found It, itโ€™s a novelized biography of [philosopher Ludwig] Wittgensteinโ€™s life by Bruce Duffy. Itโ€™s an excellent novel. I was way into philosophy before I was into literature. I was raised Evangelical Christian, and my dad was Peyote Religion. It was a really intense religious household. So by the time I was in my early 20s, I was going, โ€œOK, I donโ€™t believe in any of their stuff,โ€ and I had a pretty intensely etched out area for God that I needed to fill somehow. So I went at books first for psychology, philosophy and religion, and sort of stumbled into fiction. And then I was like, โ€œOh, this is the thing I was looking for.โ€

Itโ€™s rare that a novel is praised for its nonfiction sections, but the extended prologue of โ€˜There Thereโ€™ is so meticulously researched, and so disturbing and passionate in its descriptions of the history of violence against Indigenous peoples in the U.S., that those ideasโ€”many of which are new to many readers, you have to imagineโ€”have justifiably gotten as much attention as the story itself.

Iโ€™m very much deep in my next novel, and finding that I do get heavily involved in research. One sentence can really send me down a research hole, where I come back with very little, but itโ€™ll end up influencing the sentence in such a way that more information will get packed into it.

That makes sense since a lot of times you seem to drop a detail about a character or plot point or even just a background detail that may not stand out at first, but takes on a new significance as more is revealed.

Yeah, I think I was maybe doing it more instinctually in the first book, and Iโ€™m sort of analyzing it a little more as itโ€™s going on for the second book. Because in the first one, youโ€™re like, โ€œI donโ€™t know what Iโ€™m doing.โ€ And even though I still donโ€™t feel like I know what Iโ€™m doing in the second one, Iโ€™m at least analyzing that Iโ€™m thinking I donโ€™t know what Iโ€™m doingโ€”sort of watching the process.

Another thing about your research is it seems like it must have been emotionally taxing, to say the least. It is certainly difficult to read the graphic details of the violence perpetrated against Native Americans.

Actually, I had been hearing the story of the Sand Creek Massacre since I was a kid. This was a story that my dad heard from his grandmother, great-grandmother, aunties who raised him. It was a family story that was passed down and told this very particular wayโ€”this is something that is in our family, something that is behind his Indian name. I heard this story more than any other story from his childhood, or about Cheyenne people. It made a pretty deep impact. I knew it was going to be a part of the prologue because it was a personal piece. I guess the research that Iโ€™m still doing, and finding out horrific thingsโ€”because thatโ€™s what history ends up being if you really start digging in, itโ€™s the tearing away of all these veils of idealism and patriotism and all this indoctrination we donโ€™t realize weโ€™re getting about greatness and history being cleanโ€”it really ends up being more vindicating. Like, โ€œOh yeah, I felt a heaviness all this time for a reason. It felt this awful because it was this awful.โ€ Because I definitely felt the heaviness of history, and what it did to us, what it did to Cheyenne people. Before I intellectually knew it, I felt it. When you find out all this stuff that you already felt, it frees something in you that you feltโ€”maybe you were personalizing it, or you felt like something was wrong with you. I think thatโ€™s why I like exploring history and like to use it in fiction. The novel Iโ€™m working on has a really big historical chunk in it. Iโ€™m really drawing a line in this next book that goes from Sand Creek into the 1940s, and it made my grandparents more real to me, having to delve into the era and figure out what life was like.

Your description of what history is at its core makes me think about how ironic it is that we learn most of our history when weโ€™re very young, and the excuse for sanitizing it becomes, โ€œWell, we donโ€™t want to upset the children.โ€ That may be the case, but it also allows a whitewashed version of the truth to be passed along without the issues that have left many communities hurting for generations ever really being faced at a societal level.

Yeah, James Baldwin talked about this a lot, in terms of this nation coming to terms with its past for its own sakeโ€”not to help Black people out or to help Native people out, but because to reckon with the American soul, you need to be looking at everything that happened. Going to Germany was a trip; I went for part of the book tour, and the way that they faced World War II and the Holocaust is a little more head on. Itโ€™s like, โ€œYes, we did this, weโ€™re going to have public memorials, weโ€™re going to talk about it, itโ€™s going to be a dialogue.โ€ We went the other direction [in the U.S.] and we put up statues of Confederate people, and left them up, and named things after these awful white men, and kept the names going. I think itโ€™s detrimental to us as a country, and itโ€™s really been institutionalized in the way that we donโ€™t even talk about it like itโ€™s an institutionalized lie.

And not talking about it for so long makes the reckoning all the more bitter and divisive when it comes, as weโ€™ve seen in the more recent fights over taking down statues of Confederates, slave owners and other American icons whose history is in some way tarnished.

Weโ€™re really at a place in this country now where we have yet another opportunity to look at it, if we choose to. And I still donโ€™t know if we will.

One of those things that builds up meaning over the course of โ€˜There Thereโ€™ is the title itself. Knowing it was set in Oakland, I had a feeling even before I read it that it must be a reference to the famous Gertrude Stein quote about the city: โ€˜Thereโ€™s no there there.โ€™ But when one of the characters does deconstruct that quote, it really brings a different understanding of it: Itโ€™s not a put down of Oakland, but an indictment of the powers and interests that stole its โ€œthereness.โ€ Being from Oakland, had you wanted to set the record straight on that quote for a long time?

I wish I could say Iโ€™m like a Gertrude Stein reader or whatever, but sheโ€™s really hard to read. Iโ€™m sure most people can admit that if itโ€™s not their profession to study her for a living. I mean, she has great music, and sonically itโ€™s pretty incredible what sheโ€™s doing with these circular sentences and repetitionโ€”I think itโ€™s really cool. But as far as the readability part, very hard. I came across her because I wanted to write a book about Oakland, and I wanted to see what other people did. And thereโ€™s really not that much, which was a big impetus to try to do it. It drove me harder into wanting to make it an Oakland book, and the urban Native space had not really been filled out very much either. So just looking at Jack London and Gertrude Stein quotes on the internet is really how I found Gertrude Stein. It was only later that I found the book where that quote appeared, and read some of that. But it was an immediate hit when I read that quoteโ€”I immediately read it through the Native lens, and then found out about her childhood and the unrecognizable quality of what she called home before.

You also bring in another meaning for โ€˜There Thereโ€™: the Radiohead song of the same name. Itโ€™s really weird, but when I listen to that song now, it seems like itโ€™s about your book. Like the lyric, โ€˜Just โ€™cause you feel it, doesn’t mean itโ€™s there.โ€™ It matches up bizarrely well.

Iโ€™m a huge Radiohead fan, but I didnโ€™t force that in. I was googling โ€˜There Thereโ€™ once I decided I wanted it as the title, and thatโ€™s when I saw the Radiohead song. And when I clicked it I was like, โ€œOh, I know this song. This is โ€˜Track 09.โ€™ โ€˜Track 09โ€™ is how I had it because I pirated Hail to the Thief, and thatโ€™s how it had been uploaded. So I never knew it was called โ€œThere There.โ€ Then when I read the lyrics I was like, โ€œOh, this is the themes of the book.โ€ So I knew I had to get it in, because it so fit. It was serendipity.

For musical references, though, the character Tony Loneman finding an iPod on BART thatโ€™s full of nothing but MF Doom songs is the best. For days after I read that, every once in a while Iโ€™d think about who that iPod could have possibly belonged to. Like who would only have one artist in their entire music library, and how obsessed with that one musician youโ€™d have to be to do that? And then itโ€™s MF Doom, which makes it even better.

This is a situation where my love for MF Doom made me want to get him in the book. Like I said, I love Radiohead, but I would never try to force them in. But MF Doom is in my top three favorite rappers, and I just thought, โ€œI want to nod at Doom in this work Iโ€™m putting all this time into, because I love him so much.โ€ I have a metal mask behind me that I ordered around Halloween, and it came right before the word came out that he died.

What do you see as the value of participating in something like the UCSC Deep Read, where you know a lot of college students will get exposure to your work, and community members have the chance to talk about it from an academic perspective?

Not to sound like Iโ€™m used to it, because that would be obnoxious, but the book has been picked up by maybe a couple dozen colleges in the same sense, where itโ€™s campuswide. And certain high schools even did. I got to tour around to some of them before Covid, and seeing it move into curriculum at high schools and colleges was really powerful, to see people valuing it in a way that they thought could change minds. I love art, and I believe in art, but I donโ€™t ever think that what Iโ€™m doing is going to become part of a conversation, or end up being part of someoneโ€™s formation or guiding some aspect of their lives. So it was incredible to see it enter that pop realm. Getting into the schools was a really cool piece for me, because itโ€™s a novel, and sometimes theyโ€™re treated like, โ€œWell, itโ€™s just a novel.โ€ But this feels like taking it more seriously, and like you said, there are ideas in it. And thatโ€™s what college is for, to be thinking about things in a layered, nuanced way where fiction can enter the conversation.

โ€˜The Deep Read: A Conversation with Tommy Orangeโ€™ will be presented by the UCSC Humanities Institute on Wednesday, March 3, at 6:30pm. The live virtual event will feature Orange in conversation with UCSC Creative Writing Professor Micah Parks. Free; go to thi.ucsc.edu/deepread for more information and to RSVP to receive the Zoom link.

Burger Expert Looks to the Past to Understand This Enduring Classic

On the short list of foods people love, the burger ranks high. How high?

Check the menu at restaurants the world over, and youโ€™ll find a burger with fries. Hot grilled patty with tomato, onion, lettuce, melted cheese on a soft bun. Heaven! In Santa Cruz, not only are there countless menus offering burgers, but some places are dedicated entirely to the all-American treat, most recently Belly Goat Burgers at Abbott Square Market.

A glance at the menu says it all. This place is all about pace-setting burgers, burgers like you wish your mother had made. No generic beef on this menu. The hamburgers at Belly Goat Burger begin at Markegard Family Grass-Fed ranch a few miles up Highway 1, where grass-fed beef are raised with an ocean view. The burgers on the Belly Goat menu are not only handcrafted, they are curated and designed by the culinary brain of chef and consultant Anthony Kresge. Kresgeโ€™s handprint is still visible in the specialty burgers he started up during his stints at Shadowbrook, Sotola, and Vinocruz.

No burger at Belly Goat is ordinary. Layered between two buns and piled high with fillings like smoked Rogue blue cheese with bacon jam. Barbecued pork belly and kimchi. Pickled jalapeรฑo slaw, poblano relish and smoked cheddar. You get the picture. Belly Goat is a showcase for the 21st century hamburger, reconstructed to deliver acres of flavor per bite while still appealing to that primal good ole American hamburger craving.

โ€œIโ€™m a menu consultant, and until I opened my own business Reef Dog Deli on Dec. 23, 2020, I did a lot of projects,โ€ Kresge says. On both sides of the hill, Kresge applied his culinary and business savvy to menu design in corporate and restaurant settings. Concept development was his special skill, and Belly Goat Burger was a key project.

โ€œEssentially with this kind of food, weโ€™re going back to the beginning,โ€ he says. โ€œWe have to ask ourselves how to reinvent food beyond the white tablecloth legacy, by examining the basics of how to-go food really started.โ€ 

In thinking about how we eat now, and in the future, Kresge looked back at European street food history.

โ€œIt was a survival skill, the old-world concept of to-go foods. Look at delis in Europe, or in large urban centers,โ€ he says. โ€œThereโ€™s no seating, people are moving fast, so you donโ€™t want to complicate it. If I could produce something as delicious as any fine dining, yet make it grab and go, then I would have the next thing.โ€ 

Whatโ€™s the enduring appeal of the hamburger? โ€œAh, the hamburger,โ€ he says with a sigh. โ€œItโ€™s an American classic. It keeps on showing up because itโ€™s not broken. Itโ€™s everywhere. I look in my grandmotherโ€™s cookbook and thereโ€™s always a hamburger something. Then McDonaldโ€™s and Burger King took over. But that was fast food.โ€

Borrowing from fast food while beefing it up, Kresge and colleagues asked themselves: โ€œHow do we keep it a classic, but make it better?โ€ One answer was sourcing grass-fed beef. โ€œIn order to add a burger to serious menus, we had to blow peopleโ€™s minds. And thatโ€™s where the additions like bacon jam and caramelized onions started coming in. For me personally, I have always asked, โ€˜What does it taste like when I take that first bite?โ€™โ€ he says. โ€œIt has to be there in the first bite. And that means using great ingredients.โ€

Starting up Belly Goat before he decided to pivot and open his own business, Reef Dog Deli, Kresge and his team worked smarter, not harder. โ€œWeโ€™re making fries, but weโ€™re taking pre-cut Idahos, then finish them, turn them into garlic fries right there in the kitchen. We use garlic confit, so it takes the heat out of the garlic. Itโ€™s a sweeter bit of garlic.โ€

The industry standard of a fine commercial hamburger was In-N-Out, Kresge contends: โ€œThe principal baseline, using good buns, and good fries.โ€ 

But Kresge has watched most franchise burgers get smaller over time. โ€œFor us organic chefs, the last thing we want is to diminish the patronโ€™s experience. We want to create something that produces a โ€˜Wow! Iโ€™m coming backโ€™ response. We want to make a handcrafted burger that people will love.โ€

Find offerings from Belly Goat and many more local restaurants in Santa Cruz Burger Week, running Feb. 24 – March 2.

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