Opinion

EDITOR’S NOTE

One of the complaints I hear most often from locals about Santa Cruz County is that “there’s nothing happening on the food scene.” This isn’t literally true, but then, they don’t mean it literally. We all have our favorite dining spots, and our favorite locally produced foods, and would wail to high heaven if they suddenly disappeared (I am still wailing about Lou’s Cajun Kitchen). But we also get so used to our regular meal haunts that we start to take them for granted after a while, and when we hear about snappy new food trends elsewhere—smoke, algae, moringa, whatever—we wonder if and when we’re going to get a taste. So, what people are really saying when they complain about “nothing happening” is that they want to see bold new culinary ideas here.
The thing is, they are here. It’s great when there’s a high-visibility place to find them, like the Santa Cruz Food Lounge, but sometimes they’re hidden away. One of our food writers who has dedicated herself to finding them is Lily Stoicheff, who recently started writing the “Love at First Bite” column every other week in GT for that exact purpose. This week, she’s written about a little-known nexus of culinary experimentation in Santa Cruz, the Commercial Kitchen Incubator Program in Watsonville. Home to almost three dozen food start-ups over the last three years, this program from the El Pájaro Commercial Development Corporation is nurturing exactly the kind of innovative ideas locals say they want to see on our food scene. And the stories of the people behind these startups are often what you’d least expect. Let’s all support the foodies who are feeding both our stomachs and our thirst for the new.
STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Read the latest letters to the editor here.

Trust Betrayed
Re: “Posner Undisclosed” (GT, 3/9): You know that Santa Cruz has a housing crisis when our own city council member Micah Posner rents an illegal shed out of his backyard and doesn’t disclose the income because the unit is “unpermitted.”
Note to the voting public: no matter how “cool” your chosen politician appears to be, they generally don’t want to live under the same rules they would like to enforce upon the rest of us.
An elected official who votes for laws that restrict the housing market, while simultaneously benefiting from that same tight market by illegally renting a shed for $700 a month and then lying about it and hiding the income, epitomizes the corruption in government that the public is so angry about.
His actions are hypocritical, illegal, and dishonest, and they betray the public trust. Santa Cruz deserves better.
Richard Graves
Santa Cruz

Get Real
Re: “Posner Undisclosed”: I was amazed at the time spent explaining the Micah Posner cardinal sin of renting out a room for $700/month. The idea that such a thing could inspire any action at all demonstrates a clear lack of direction for our housing issues in Santa Cruz.

There is a significant housing shortage here. It hits renters, the single people and lower income people worst of all. Where are these people supposed to go when units like this are taken off the market? We need to get real—what happens to them?
It was cheap. $700 a month was a figure that Micah’s former tenant will not find elsewhere. I only hope that said tenant finds something that he/she can afford after being kicked out by the city.
There actually are some really squalid and abusive housing situations existing in Santa Cruz and Live Oak, and no one seems minimally interested in addressing these disgusting situations.

I find this ridiculous. We need to move on to the real issues.
Paula Barsamian
Santa Cruz

Online Comments
Re: Electoral College Local Talk
California has enacted the National Popular Vote bill. It would guarantee the presidency to the candidate who receives the most popular votes in the country. Every vote, everywhere, would be politically relevant and equal in every presidential election. No more distorting and divisive red and blue state maps of pre-determined outcomes. There would no longer be a handful of “battleground” states (where the two major political parties happen to have similar levels of support among voters) where voters and policies are more important than those of the voters in 38-plus states, like California, that have just been “spectators” and ignored after the conventions.
The National Popular Vote bill would take effect when enacted by states with a majority of the electoral votes—270 of 538. All of the presidential electors from the enacting states will be supporters of the presidential candidate receiving the most popular votes in all 50 states (and D.C.)—thereby guaranteeing that candidate with an Electoral College majority.
The bill has passed 34 state legislative chambers in 23 rural, small, medium, large, red, blue, and purple states with 261 electoral votes. The bill has been enacted by 11 jurisdictions with 165 electoral votes–61 percent of the 270 necessary to go into effect.
—Susan Anthony


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GOOD IDEA

JUST FOR BREW
Tensions at UCSC and among alumni reached a boiling point after the university announced it would be changing the way the Stevenson Coffee House operates and launching a renovation. Administrators later clarified that they plan to introduce Jewish foods and that the kitchen would need remodeling. UCSC has announced feedback sessions to hear from the community at 1 p.m. on Tuesday, April 5 and 6 p.m. on April 6 at the Stevenson Coffee House.


GOOD WORK

GREEN PLAYER
And now a post from our Department of Shameless Self Promotion: Good Times is now a Green Certified Business, we found out last week. GT is the only green-certified newspaper in the county, according to the Monterey Green Business Program, which recognized our LEED-certified printer and energy-efficient office building, among other eco-friendly elements. There are 3,000 Certified Green Businesses in the state. For more information, visit montereybaygreenbusiness.org.


QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“Know your food, know your farmers and know your kitchen.”

-Joel Salatin

From The Editor

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ednote stevePlus Letters To the Editor

Gallery Tour

Over the next four weeks, the Felix Kulpa Gallery will blur the lines between visual, musical, kinetic, and even culinary arts, as it hosts choreographer Cid Pearlman’s latest reimagining of the divide between performer and audience.
“This is living art to me,” says gallery director, Robbie Schoen. “It moves on its own.”
Pearlman has designed “Economies of Effort 3” to go beyond the typical notions of what a dance show can be.
“We’re even planning to make soup,” says Pearlman, “So when dancers aren’t dancing, they may sit down and make soup.”
It’s all part of her larger creative philosophy, Pearlman says.
“I want the dances I make to show the complexity of the world and the people in it. It’s how we continue to grow audiences for live performance.”
Her vision fits into a maker movement that encourages open access to art: “People want to know about the process and be in the same room with it,” says Pearlman. “The closer they can get to us, the more permeable the membrane is, so there’s not a fourth wall. They’re with us.”
And they will get close, Schoen says. “People are falling and jumping. They’re swinging their limbs around. You’re within a fraction of an inch.”
Schoen and Pearlman have collaborated in the past, working together on “Economies of Effort 1,” and he’s thrilled to continue the conversation they began then about creativity and agency. In a slightly ironic nod to the name, “Economies of Effort 3” is free, although audience members are encouraged to reserve a space in advance, as the gallery can only accommodate 35 guests at a time.
“I’ve always been interested in interdisciplinary work,” says Pearlman. “In building that first piece, dancers basically created their own worlds, so we had control over the lighting, props and sound throughout. We were able to be creative and self-sufficient.”
The results can be seen in photographs from past shows covering the gallery walls, where the choreography included dancers constructing their own staging with power tools.
Using the Felix Kulpa’s indoor and outdoor sculptures (which include a converted telephone booth and junked television sets), Pearlman says, was a natural next step.
“I wanted to do something immersive and site-specific this time, as well as something really accessible to the audience. We’ve spent the last two months in the gallery creating micro-spaces throughout, so they’ll be able to move around inside and outside,” says Pearlman. “There will be more than one thing going on at any one time. [The audience] will have the freedom to choose their own path.”
In placing dancers within the confines of a gallery, even one with a range of architectures, she hopes to challenge the notion that dance is ephemeral.
“I want to make the labor of dance visible, and to question the idea that it’s more temporary and less tangible than other art forms.”
One of Pearlman’s dancers and collaborators, Collette Kollewe, says the audience will get to tour the performance the way they would tour a gallery, which will make the dancers’ movements more relatable.
“The objects we’re interacting with are extremely recognizable to the audience. They might not have a giant box in their house, or use a ladder the way we do,” she says. “But up close, they can imagine what it’s like to move with these limited resources in this limited space. They get to walk through it.”
Fifteen dancers, ages 22 to 66, comprise “Economies of Effort 3.” Pearl takes pride in the fact that their body types vary and their movement shifts all over the map between hard and soft, fast and slow, electric and deliberate.
She cites her background in punk rock and Aikido as fueling her creative and kinetic language.
“My work can have a darkness and thick physicality, but there’s also an inherent optimism to it,” she says. “I have a lot of faith in people, that given the right motivation and information, they’ll do the right thing.”
What has surprised her about collaborating with Schoen and the dancers at the Felix Kulpa Gallery is the endless opportunity to create micro-worlds of movement and meaning. What has surprised Schoen is the sheer joy of collaboration.
“It really turns me on,” he says. “I’m doing things I’ve always wanted to do. It makes me want to get up early and move.”


7:30 p.m., 9:30 p.m., March 17-20, 24-27. Felix Kulpa Gallery, 107 Elm St., Santa Cruz. Reservations suggested and entry is limited to 35 people per performance. cidpearlman.org.

What is the meaning of life?

lt-taschaBeing at peace. Connecting with other people, and with nature.

Tascha Foy, Santa Cruz, Speech Language Pathologist

Damned Yankees

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From January to Oscar night, the movies are in the doldrums. The last few Oscar contenders are trickling into neighborhood theaters, along with a few lumbering misfits that are not now, nor have they ever been, worthy of any kind of awards push. But it’s a very fertile time for horror movies, the traditional antidote to feel-good holiday fare, and the gnarlier, the better.
So you don’t expect much from a movie called The Witch (or, to be true to the advertising campaign, The VVitch). Its early colonial America setting suggests the Salem witch trials, satanic rites, vintage Hammer horror films. But this movie is nothing quite so cheesy, nor as gory, as you might expect; it’s an often squirmingly intense psychological drama of hysteria and religious fanaticism.
It’s still plenty scary (at least, very, very creepy), but it’s fearful anticipation that propels the narrative, not in-your-face violence. Like the best horror/suspense movies (think of the original The Haunting, from 1963), The Witch plays mercilessly on our dread of what might be lurking in the shadows, rather than actually showing much onscreen—and is all the more effective because of it. Oh, yes, there’s blood, but not so much of the usual fx gore-mongering.
Set in New England, ca. 1630—60 years before the famed Salem witch trials—The Witch is rich in period detail, meticulously researched by rookie writer-director Robert Eggers. (Historically correct stitching in the costumes, appropriate period objects and tools, etc.) The Puritan elders of a settlement called the “plantation,” are denouncing one of its members, William (Ralph Ineson), for the sin of pride. William, his anxious wife Katherine (Kate Dickie), and their five children are cast out of the community to homestead on a distant, isolated tract of land at the edge of a sinister wood.
Theirs is the first generation of settlers to come directly from England in search of freedom to worship their wrathful, demanding god. We don’t know the nature of William’s supposed “sin,” but the family spends every waking moment praying and repenting for their “corrupt nature,” while attending to the hard labor of running their farm. But their corn rots, their hen’s eggs are full of blood, and William decides it’s a punishment from God—leading to more praying and fasting.
At the center of the tale is eldest daughter, Thomasin (lovely Anya Taylor-Joy), dutiful and uncomplaining. Through no fault of her own, her pubescent body has begun to attract the covert attention of her kid brother, Caleb (Harvey Scrimshaw). But when a mishap occurs to one of the younger children while under Thomasin’s care, a psychic firestorm begins brewing around her that gradually engulfs the entire family.
OK, no spoilers here. But the hysteria and paranoia levels rise to a fever pitch, even as the movie’s visual focus becomes ever smaller, more claustrophobic and intense. The action is staged in cramped quarters by flickering firelight, a shadowy barn, or deep in the dense, dark woods. As family members alternately suspect, blame, and rage at each other, excessive piety toward their unresponsive god fails to produce good results, and the Devil is blamed for everything else. It’s no wonder everyone goes a little nuts, as Eggers suggests the most volatile “corruption” comes from inside the mind.
Eggers amps up the atmosphere: musical passages rise to alarming crescendos, even when nothing is happening onscreen. Twigs snap, and unseen predators rumble in the woods. Eggers shoots everything from the same close, realistic point-of-view, so if something weird does appear onscreen, we’re never sure if it’s meant to be a dream, the result of someone’s overstimulated imagination, or “real.”
This is the kind of eerie dynamic between reality and fantasy that was handled so well in Pan’s Labyrinth. Subtitled A New England Folk Tale, the film conjures classic images from fairy tales and folklore: a bloody apple; a red-cloaked figure glimpsed in the wood. Whether or not The Devil is loose among this family, or they’re preyed on by devils of their own making, Eggers leaves it up to the viewer to decide.


THE WITCH: A NEW ENGLAND FOLK TALE
***(out of four)
With Anya Taylor-Joy, Ralph Ineson, Kate Dickie, Harvey Scrimshaw. Written and directed by Robert Eggers. An A24 release. Rated R. 92 minutes.

Be Our Guest: Buika

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Spanish vocalist Concha Buika, better known as Buika, has been compared to some of the most powerful vocalists of all time: Nina Simone, Billie Holiday, Edith Piaf and Cesaria Evora. But Buika is an immense talent in her own right. Pairing Spanish coplas and American torch songs with pulsing Latin rhythms, she has established herself as a player on the international music stage. Buika has worked with an all-star roster of artists from different genres, including Pat Metheny, Chick Corea, Chucho Valdés, and Anoushka Shankar, and she took home a Latin Grammy for El Último Trago, her 2010 collaboration with Valdés. Her latest album, Vivir Sin Miedo, is her first with English lyrics.


INFO: 7:30 p.m. Sunday, March 20. Rio Theatre, 1205 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz. $35/gen, $50/gold. 423-8209. WANT TO GO? Go to santacruz.com/giveaways before 11 a.m. on Friday, March 11 to find out how you could win a pair of tickets to the show.

Love Your Local Band: Michael Martyn

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Michael Martyn has been gigging locally as “Michael Martyn Good Medicine” since 1979. For a while, he was playing five nights a week, maybe more, and has played every venue in town. He’s a local legend, kind of.
“I’m one of the most well-known unknown musicians in Santa Cruz,” Martyn jokes. “I’ve been playing all around Santa Cruz forever. I’ve been on KPIG radio. I’ve hosted a ton of open mics, but since a lot of the venues are gone for solo or duo acoustic music, there’s not a lot. I’m persistent. I’m going to do it till I can’t play anymore.”
When Martyn does play these days, it’s usually a stripped-down Americana type thing, with influences ranging from Bob Dylan, Neil Young, and the Byrds. However, his 66th birthday bash show Thursday at Don Quixote’s will offer a rare glimpse of what he sounds like backed by a full electric band.
“I can’t afford my band. They’re like the top A-team of Santa Cruz,” Martyn says. “Everybody thinks I’m going to play country because I wear a cowboy hat. No, I do rock. It’s folk-rock, blues-based psychedelic rock. This show will be Americana rocked up.”
Through the years, as the lineups have changed, Martyn has considered changing his band name, but the more he thought about it, the more he knows it would set him back.
“I learned it from Willie Nelson. He said once that if you keep changing your name, no one is going to know who you are. If you keep the same name, they’re always going to know who you are.”


INFO: 7:30 p.m. Thursday, March 10 at Don Quixote’s, 6275 Hwy. 9, Felton. $10. 335-2800.

Pulp Friction

Americans eat more bananas than any other fruit—more than 25 pounds per person per year, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
“We go through six to eight 40-pound boxes a day,” says Jeremiah Bennight, produce manager at New Leaf Community Market in Capitola. “It’s definitely a staple fruit. We can’t go without it.”
But the question now is if they may have to, as an aggressive fungal disease threatens to wreak havoc on the worldwide production of this quintessential higher primate food.
Known as Fusarium wilt, the fungus has appeared in Africa, Asia and Australia. Although it poses no threat to humans, it is easily spread and many experts think that it’s only a matter of time before the disease crosses the pond into the Americas, which could be a crippling blow to worldwide banana production. The world’s top exporting farms are in Latin America, which is where Bennight says all of New Leaf’s bananas are sourced.
Why is one fungus outbreak threatening the whole world’s production? Because the vast majority of commercially available bananas are all one cloned variety, or cultivar, known as the Cavendish. This type of growing, known as monoculture farming, is cost-effective and consistent on a large scale, but the lack of genetic diversity leaves entire populations of the plants extremely susceptible to disease.
Peeling back the history of the banana reveals that this has happened before. During the middle of the last century, a similar strain of fungal disease sickened plants all over the world, and by the 1960s the world’s previous top banana—Gros Michel, which was larger and more flavorful than the Cavendish—was all but wiped out. Thanks to the rise of the Cavendish, the demise of the Gros Michel didn’t ultimately ruin the worldwide banana market (data from the United Nations Food & Agriculture Organization actually show a five-fold increase since 1961), the current situation has a major difference: if the Cavendish is wiped out, there is not another variety waiting in the wings.
There are actually more than 1,000 types of bananas worldwide, but most are either too perishable or unpalatable to be commercially viable. And no type of banana is commercially grown in the U.S., which means that for Americans there is no such thing as a locally sourced banana. But we are the largest buyer in what is estimated to be a more than $7 billion dollar export market.
It’s remarkable that despite their long, complex exportation process, bananas remain one of the cheapest fresh fruits in the supermarket. Don’t they leave a gorilla-sized carbon footprint? Not necessarily, says Bennight.
“It’s not as big of a carbon footprint as you would think because they’re shipped by boat in large quantities instead of on planes or trucks,” he says.
They are the cause of another environmental concern, however: discarded banana peels are a source of environmental methane, a greenhouse gas over 20 times more powerful than carbon dioxide, and one that contributes significantly to global warming.
Why do we stick with them, despite their complications? Because bananas foster good health in many ways. A great source of nutrition, they are low in calories and rich in fiber, potassium, and vitamins C and B-6. They also contain compounds called fructooligosaccharides, which promote healthy gut bacteria and could lead to better nutrient absorption and overall gastrointestinal health. Bananas are also a natural antacid, and could help alleviate heartburn. And they even contain some tryptophan, a chemical building block for serotonin, the brain’s “feel good” neurotransmitter.
Even the peels offer health and nutrition benefits (and we can digest them, as long as they are cooked). They can also be rubbed on rashes like poison ivy, psoriasis, and bug bites, and may reduce itch, inflammation, and promote healing.
When it comes to the issue of organic vs. non-organic, there is no split among banana aficionados. “I’ve heard that bananas are one of the fruits that people will not sacrifice eating conventional over organic,” says Bennight. Even chimpanzees agree. They will eat only the fruit of a non-organic banana, but give them an organic one and they’ll eat the entire thing, peel and all.

What’s the toughest job you’ve ever had?

lt-moPicking grapes. I was just this young hippie at the time trying to put some money together, thinking I could do it. Halfway down one row I had cut myself 14 times.

Mo Moscovitz, Santa Cruz, Teacher

Feel the Burn: Burn Hot Sauce Spices It Up

I’m addicted to the sauce. I blame my friends, who pushed me toward an attractive stranger and told me to stick out my hand. I warily obliged, and she dispensed a drop on the pad of my index finger, thick and red as blood. I put it to my mouth, and flavor bloomed, followed by a rising heat. Everything changed. I needed more.
Burn Hot Sauce has ruined me for all other hot sauces. Vibrantly hued, the four “flavors” are heirloom pepper varieties, so one can really taste the nuances of the pepper and the land on which it was grown—the terroir, if you will, of the Thai bird, Hungarian cyklon, serrano and cayenne. The heat blossoms slowly, and is intensely flavorful, never aggressive or overwhelming (unless you’re slathering it on everything in sight, like yours truly).
Each single-origin sauce is made from organic, California-grown peppers, water and sea salt, and fermented raw for three to six months before being blended and packaged into medicinal dropper bottles. As someone who has an entire shelf in her fridge devoted to spicy condiments, this stroke of genius blew my mind. The dropper not only allows the consumer to control how much sauce they put on their pizza, eggs or tacos, it completely eliminates the dreaded crusty hot sauce rim.
Burn is the brainchild of partners Amanda Pargh and Chase Atkins, who live in Felton and ferment and package their sauce at the El Pajaro Commercial Kitchen Incubator in Watsonville.
In 2014, the day before Pargh was set to begin working in the kitchen at Manresa (after stints at Yountville’s prestigious Ad Hoc and Los Angeles’ Animal), the Michelin-starred restaurant caught fire. Having recently relocated from Sonoma, she and partner Chase Atkins began farming and teaching at Love Apple Farms while waiting for the remodel. Surrounded by produce and fermenting anything she could get her hands on, a windfall of serrano peppers inspired Pargh to make hot sauce and give it to friends. “People were calling us up, saying ‘What was that! I’ve never had anything like it. I need more! My eggs aren’t the same!’” says Pargh. “Chase said, ‘I think we’re on to something.’”
Having left the restaurant world to focus on Burn for the time being, the couple says they’re thrilled at how well their product has been received. “We were expecting demand, but we’re getting such positive feedback that our only real concern this year is running out,” says Pargh.


Burn Hot Sauce is available at the New Leaf Market in Felton, the downtown Farmers Market starting March 16 and on etsy.com. burnhotsauce.com
 

Opinion

March 16, 2016

From The Editor

Plus Letters To the Editor One of the complaints I hear most often from locals about Santa Cruz County is that “there’s nothing happening on the food scene.” This isn’t literally true, but then, they don’t mean it literally. We all have our favorite dining spots, and our favorite locally produced foods, and would wail to...

Gallery Tour

Robbie Schoen lets Cid Pearlman loose in the Felix Kulpa to challenge traditional concepts of dance performance

What is the meaning of life?

Being at peace. Connecting with other people, and with nature. Tascha Foy, Santa Cruz, Speech Language Pathologist             Halloween is every day. Bunny, Santa Cruz, Teacher             Live it long, live it well, have a good kid, and leave a pretty corpse. Chris Curtis, Santa Cruz,...

Damned Yankees

Psychological dread amps up eerie ‘The Witch’

Be Our Guest: Buika

Win tickets to BUIKA at The Rio on SantaCruz.com

Love Your Local Band: Michael Martyn

Michael Martyn plays March 10 at Don Quixote's.

Pulp Friction

Our relationship with bananas is complicated, but they still have appeal

What’s the toughest job you’ve ever had?

Picking grapes. I was just this young hippie at the time trying to put some money together, thinking I could do it. Halfway down one row I had cut myself 14 times. Mo Moscovitz, Santa Cruz, Teacher           Parenting is the hardest thing I have done, and it’s still hard. But it’s...

Feel the Burn: Burn Hot Sauce Spices It Up

Amanda Pargh and Chase Atkins of Burn Hot Sauce
Local hot sauce is spicy done right
17,623FansLike
8,845FollowersFollow