Peak Dumplings

Like a trip to Tibet

A thoroughly authentic Tibetan experience from the food to the ambiance and provenance, River Café was opened in 2019 by chef/owner Rabgee Kunchok.

Born and raised in Tibet, he and his family had a farm and herd of animals, eating every meal at home so cooking was a way of life.

He first left Tibet as a young adult, moving to India then New York before settling in Santa Cruz, initially working at a high-end grocery store before starting a food truck and eventually finding a permanent space at River Café.

The atmosphere boasts indoor/outdoor seating, plentiful windows and deeply Tibetan-themed décor with prayer flags and a picture of the Dalai Lama. The beverages boast a wide high-end selection of coffee, tea and chai as well as cold drinks like kombucha and fresh juice, complemented by an eclectic breakfast/lunch food menu headlined by not-oft-seen Tibetan classics.

The signature specialty offering is scratch-made Tibetan dumplings called Momo, featuring a thin flour wrap with filling options of chicken, beef or veggies served with tomato chili hot sauce and side salad. Another hard-to-find popular pick is the Tibetan noodle soup, and further menu mainstays include breakfast burritos with eggs, crispy potatoes and bacon, sausage or veggie fillings, customizable paninis and local pastries, cookies and muffins.

What was it like growing up in Tibet?

RABGEE KUNCHOK: My life there was very simple – I didn’t know the world, but I knew my home, family and community. We lived off our land and didn’t worry about food even though we didn’t have much. We did everything as a community, looking out for each other like family, helping with farming, tending to the animals and raising children. Everything we did was about not only us, but the community too, and we all took care of each other.

Tell me more about Momos.

In Tibet, I grew up in the kitchen preparing food with my parents and the Momo dumplings were a special part of our cultural food tradition, especially for special occasions and celebrations. Every Asian country has their own version of dumplings, and Momos are our authentic Tibetan version. They are most similar to Japanese gyoza, similar in filling but with a different shape. They are steamed in a traditional way and you won’t find them anywhere else in Santa Cruz.

415 River Street Suite K, Santa Cruz, 831-420-1280; rivercafesantacruz.com

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