Be Our Guest: Roberto Fonseca

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Afro-Cuban music and jazz have had a long history together, and Havana-born Roberto Fonseca has kept this beautiful marriage alive his entire career.

For his ninth studio album, Yesun, he’s taking it even further, continuing to pull from traditional jazz and Afro-Cuban music, but also taking elements of electronic music, funk, reggaeton, and rap to give us a taste of where this music could go with a little bit of ingenuity and experimentation. 

7pm. Thursday, March 5, Kuumbwa Jazz Center, 320-2 Cedar St., Santa Cruz. $31.50/adv, $36.75/door. Information: kuumbwajazz.org.

WANT TO GO?

Go to santacruz.com/giveaways before 11am on Thursday, Feb. 27 to find out how you could win a pair of tickets to the show.

Cross of Ashes – Dust to Dust: Risa’s Stars Feb. 26 – March 3

Esoteric astrology as news for the week of Feb. 26

Throughout history, humanity has created rituals and celebrations that reflect the different seasons. The rituals mirror, indicate and signify the different aspects of light and dark, the seasons and the elements, allowing humanity to maintain a rhythm with nature past, present and future, with the heavens and with each other.

Lent (“lenctene” – when days lengthen), just before spring, is one of those ritual times. Lent (outward sign and external name)—beginning this Wednesday—is 40 days and 40 nights of purification, preparing us for Spring and Easter, the Resurrection festivals.

Lent always begins after Mardi Gras (Tuesday), on a Wednesday, Ash Wednesday. There is a ritual with ashes in the Catholic churches, reminding us that we are spiritual beings clothed (temporarily) in form and matter. The Ash Wednesday ritual: The priest places a cross of ashes (made from burned palms) on the forehead (Anja center, 3rd eye, place of spiritual direction) of parishioners while saying the words, “From dust thou art (you were made) and unto dust thou shalt return.” 

These words remind us that the physical body, made of elemental (the elements of) matter, returns to the Earth at death. However, within our body (within each cell) the Spirit of God dwells—the spark of life, the light of life, the Pisces light that saves the world. During Lent, preparing for the new life of spring, we cleanse, purify our bodies, we change habits, preparing to make ourselves new (again).

Our actions during Lent imitate Mars and Mercury retrograde activities. We grow in quiet reflection, contemplation, study and knowledge, enabling us to participate in the upcoming three spring festivals (Aries, Taurus, Gemini) which set the template for the rest of the year.   

 

ARIES: As you recognize the vital and initiating work you are to bring forth, you will also need to learn how to participate in groups with intelligence and heartfelt alignment. You are to construct part of the new world, culture and civilization. Is this in your awareness?  Are you conscious of what this implies and the needs of humanity? You’re called to awaken again for the times are coming when those who plan and lead boldly, take risks and assess the future, working with both heart and mind, will be summoned. Prepare.

TAURUS: The architecture of your participation in life is changing. Previously you dreamed big dreams, pondered upon many realities, not concerned if anything took shape. Now you’re behind the scenes, teaching and facilitating groups, preparing the components of the new world era. Taurus has an enlightened mind with the ability to see humanity’s present/future needs. You are aware in the breakdown phase seeds of the new must be sowed. You’re synthesizing all realities so others can understand.

GEMINI: Many forces are at work in your life. As a Gemini, you always attempt to resolve polarities—higher with lower, soul with personality. This is a vital and difficult task accomplished by the proper cultivation of the mind principle (which calms the emotions) and the right course of study that allows no illusions, confusions, untruths, unkindness, distortions or maya. Venus calls you to share the path with others, and Aquarius wants you to develop all seven levels of your mind. Will you?

CANCER: Always we feel some form of conflict. Know that this conflict (and chaos) is useful. It gives us the ability to observe tensions and to express needs, fears and anxieties. So often there is a great battle going on between the soul and personality. The soul calls us to Right Action and Right Service. The personality seeks to sleep. Many don’t know the difference between the two. There is a reorientation occurring within, new information released into your mind, especially during Mercury retrograde.

LEO: You’ve entered a time where relationships are vitally important, yet at times you feel not connected to anything or anyone. You’re in a place of balancing and choosing, an interlude state. Your inner reality concerning relationships and how you function in them is being modified so that you can display Right Relationships while still expressing your unique creativity. Hold opposing forces in balance. A greater awareness emerges. Your love then flows once more. Love is your gift from the heart of the Sun.

VIRGO: New revelations stream into your mind concerning how to structure daily life. Revelations occur during Mercury retrogrades. Changes in our daily life prepares us to function within the new dimensions and structures in the world slowly coming into our awareness. Receive all impressions with devotion and detail. Be aware if weariness occurs. You then must rest which changes your perspectives.

LIBRA: Although, under the veil of Libra’s charm, you are a strong and powerful force, a greater level of love/wisdom must begin expressing itself through you. It begins with acceptance and gratitude for everyone and everything (past and present, here and there, then and now. Begin with intention and say over and over, “Love expresses itself through me always and then wisdom follows.” Then your life and relationships proceed with protective loving healing care.

SCORPIO: You will begin to have solitary times thinking things great and small. Create an environment that nurtures in all ways—physical, emotional, mental and spiritual aspects of yourself. Be in touch with the kingdoms—soul, human, animal, plant and mineral. Make altars to them. Love combined with your great intelligence will form a foundation for a new life emerging. It begins where you live. Later you’ll be asked to teach these very things to others who are lost.

SAGITTARIUS: You should have a very good year. Especially if you blend two realities—your personality and soul.  This produces harmony for a time. Then the soul leaves and will enters, the will of God. You will be asked to harmonize your little will with the greater will. It will not be easy. Will is a fire. As your career rises and you make a big splash, in all of this never be thoughtless. Or you’ll lose much. Remember as you go about work that “wisdom is knowledge gained through experience and implemented by love.” Thoughts to ponder in this Mercury retrograde time.

CAPRICORN: Whatever it is you hope for, radiate it with love from your heart and ajna (forehead) diamond light center. Both are where love streams forth. Then new life will take root, expressed as harmony, beauty and peace (a process). Your love for those around you eases disharmony and conflict, even when it abruptly arises. You do remember that harmony comes after conflict and chaos, yes? Behind conflict and chaos, harmony waits patiently.

AQUARIUS: This year you have great energy and potential, needed as new sources of income are sought and as you seek to control impatience. Be aware of communication or you could be thought of as being harsh and thoughtless toward others. We know you’re not. Remember to be courteous and kind, show sympathy. A new self-identity continues to emerge. Be sure it includes goodness, generosity and love. We experience what we give.

PISCES: You have begun the arduous task of understanding your feelings, thoughts, aspirations, actions and vulnerabilities. Much of your life has been treading the pathway of service and sacrifice, which you know well. A new beneficent cycle has begun, expanding your courage and strength of character. This may not be acceptable to some. Maintain privacy, walk away from disharmony, don’t believe criticism. The stars are protecting you.

Duster Hits Reset After Gaining Legend Status

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Back in the late ’90s, a trio of San Jose indie rockers called Duster released two full-length records and a handful of EPs to little attention. They played dingy basement shows and never toured beyond the West Coast.

Instead of getting a bass player, they dragged an old organ to shows, where multi-instrumentalist Clay Parton would tap on the bass pedals for some added low end. The songs rarely had proper beginnings or endings. They were structure-less, fuzzed-out, bare ensembles of spacey noise—slow, dynamic and supremely lo-fi. If a song had vocals, it was treated as another instrument, not the primary focal point. But there was a beauty to the delicate chemistry and bubbling emotionality in these tunes, whether anyone knew about them or not. 

In the early 2000s, the band faded away. Their record label went defunct at the same time, making copies of their records a rare commodity.

But the existing LPs made the rounds with a new generation of indie rockers. Duster’s take on ’90s slowcore was looser and more experimental than their peers. Like a grenade, the group’s inspiration had a delayed impact on several, now successful new bands like Girlpool, (Sandy) Alex G and Hovvdy.

“We were working in pretty simple modes. ‘How simple can this be, but still be devastating?’” Parton explains. “Part of our charm is sounding a little fucked up. We don’t really write songs and then record them. We use recording as part of the writing process.”

The cult of Duster was built without their music being available on streaming platforms. Old-fashioned word of mouth and chats in obscure music forums were the key. Copies of their albums were going for hundreds of dollars on eBay. The members of Duster found out about this niche demand and wanted to eliminate the “collector only” access to their music, so they arranged with indie label Numero Group to do a proper re-release of their catalog. When it came to fruition last March, demand was high—within a day, they sold out their limited pressing of 500 3-LP colored-vinyl box sets.

By then the band—to the surprise of the Duster cult—had recently started gigging again. The members had been talking about playing again for a while, a difficult task given that Parton lives in Santa Cruz and the other two members (Jason Albertini and Canaan Dove Amber) live in Portland. But with this new interest in the group—more interest than when they were together—there was reason. They played their first show in December 2018 in Brooklyn to an exuberant crowd of mostly 20-somethings, opening for Duster superfan (Sandy) Alex G.

In December 2019, Duster surprised their fans again by releasing a record of brand-new material, which they recorded on and off for a year and a half at Parton’s house mostly on a 4-track tape recorder, just like the old days.

“[Back then] all we had was a cassette 4-track machine, and super shitty drums and super shitty everything. We didn’t mind the immediate, disheveled sound of the 4-track. When we recorded on 8-track or even the first 16-track machine we got, it was the same approach. Smudged is our thing,” Parton says. “[For the new album] we did not consider any elaborate or excessive process.”

The group has continued to tour, including one show at the Ritz in San Jose in early 2019, which ended up being one of the band’s worst shows since getting back together.

“We played like shit. There were weird vibes, something wasn’t right. And not that many people were there. Maybe San Jose crowds still don’t want to pay for shows. Maybe some things never change,” Parton says. “It was like a true ’90s Duster experience, because we played some rough shows back then, too.”

But that show was also a turning point. It convinced them that they needed to take getting back together more seriously. They’ve since gotten a booking agent and have had other people handle the business end of things, so they could focus on incredible performances. Now as they tour, it’s become clearer that this new interest in the group wasn’t a fluke. They’re meeting a lot of kids that weren’t in the scene when they recorded most of their music, but have found a lot of meaning in what they do.   

“Meeting people at shows is rewarding,” Parton says. “Sometimes a crowd of people drawn together are all bonded by that common thread of feeling not right, or isolated, alone, some variation on that theme. It’s almost like we are all taking care of each other, at least for a moment.”

Duster performs at 9pm on Friday, Feb. 28, at the Catalyst, 1011 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz. $20/adv, $25/door. 423-1338.

Music Picks: Feb. 26 – March 3

Santa Cruz County live entertainment picks for the week of Feb. 26

WEDNESDAY 2/26

ACID-JAZZ

THE GREYBOY ALLSTARS

Rarely does the term “allstar” apply as well as it does to the Greyboy Allstars. Saxophonist Karl Denson sometimes tours in his other band, the Rolling Stones. Guitarist Elgin Park scores music in Hollywood, including on the cult classic Donnie Darko. And organ player Robert Walter also plays with Phish bassist Mike Gordon. Originally formed to back up acid jazz originator DJ Greyboy, the Allstars quickly realized their grooves were far too deep and way too rare to be stuck in a backing band. Quintessentially cool, understated, and still plenty freaky, the Greyboy Allstars bring the goods. MIKE HUGUENOR

INFO: 8:30pm. Moe’s Alley, 1535 Commercial Dr., Santa Cruz. $30/adv, $35/door. 479-1854.

 

THURSDAY 2/27

AMERICANA

PETER HARPER

The Harper kids had access to a plethora of folk instruments, thanks to their grandparents’ music store Folk Music Center. They grew into some creative adults. Joel Harper now writes children’s books, while the youngest Peter became a professional visual artist. The oldest became world famous singer-songwriter Ben Harper. Recently, Peter Harper has shifted gears to music. He has two phenomenal albums under his belt that meld elements of soul music, folk and Americana. He’s already found a significant fan base in France, which always likes all the cool American stuff. Now it’s time for the rest of us to catch up. AC

INFO: 7:30pm. Michaels on Main, 2591 Main St., Soquel. $10/adv, $12/door. 479-9777.

 

LATIN-ALTERNATIVE

COMBO CHIMBITA

“Ahomale” represents ancestral wisdom, revolution, and the truth that has always been inside of you. It’s also the name of New York quartet Combo Chimbita’s new album—and the protagonist of this concept album. Musically, the group finds space for punk, cumbia, New Wave, soul and psychedelia. But the importance of the album is in the storytelling and the lyrics—Ahomale’s ancient wisdom should hopefully enlighten the masses in 2020, just as Combo Chimbita take old Latin rhythms and bring them forward to blend with new styles in some of the most cutting-edge musical mishmashes in recent history. AC

INFO: 9pm. Catalyst, 1011 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz. $15/adv, $18/door. 423-1338. 

 

FRIDAY 2/28

INDIE

MAITA

Can you blame a kid? On lead single “Can’t Blame a Kid,” Portland indie rockers Maita dare to say, “No, you can’t.” Looks like they’ve never heard of a little kid named “Billy the.” Smh. Historical inaccuracies aside, “Can’t Blame a Kid” condenses a huge, headbanging guitar part into a taut indie rock verse, then winds itself tighter and tighter with each palm mute. When, at the chorus, the song finally explodes into the lyric “Can’t blame a kid anymore,” it’s like the Portland equivalent of arena rock: huge, but weird. MH

INFO: 9pm. Crepe Place, 1134 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz. $10. 429-6994.

 

FOLK 

TOM PAXTON 

Since 1960, Tom Paxton has been penning songs for the likes of Peter, Paul & Mary, Dolly Parton, Willie Nelson and more. Of course, he also has well over 50 albums of his own, and has performed in countless countries. Most recently, Paxton’s teamed up with his buddies the Don Juans (aka Don Henry and Jon Vezner) for a bluesy-folk trio that brings the 1960s Greenwich Village wherever they play. MAT WEIR

INFO: 7:30pm. Kuumbwa Jazz, 320-2 Cedar St., Santa Cruz. $27. 427-2227.

 

SATURDAY 2/29

INDIE

SASAMI

We all like to get bummed out now and again. And music is the perfect vehicle to dislodge our inner sadness, so we can sit alone and cry along to said dark, depressing, hopeless lyrics. L.A. singer-songwriter Sasami will conjure up your inner sad-monster, or maybe sooth your wounded warrior. She also is a great songwriter who creates beautiful music filled with psychedelic layers of synths and gentle rock melodies. It conjures up an almost numbed out blissful feeling, with sounds that fall on your head like dying flowers in a vase. And if you take the time to learn her lyrics, you are all set for an evening of cathartic tears. AC

INFO: 8pm. Felton Music Hall, 6275 Hwy 9, Felton. $12/adv, $14/door. 704-7113. 

 

COMEDY

DAVID WAITE

Self-proclaimed comedic “oddball” David Waite has gained notoriety with his performances on Late Night With Jimmy Fallon, Last Comic Standing and as a guest on Doug Benson’s Doug Loves Movies podcast. Born in Kentucky, Waite relocated to L.A. and can currently be seen co-producing the Secret Show comedy night in Culver City. His latest album, Dead Waite, is available now, but why not go see the man in person during one of his two shows at DNA’s Comedy Lab? MW

INFO: 7 and 9:30pm. DNA’s Comedy Lab, 155 S. River St., Santa Cruz. $20adv, $25/door. 900-5123. 

 

MONDAY 3/2

JAZZ

REGINA CARTER

With her ravishing tone, unabashed lyricism and quicksilver flow of ideas, Regina Carter single-handedly brought the violin back to the center of mainstream jazz in the 1990s. She’s explored widely ever since, from Motown soul to East African lullabies. But she’s never surpassed the improvisational brio of her duo with piano legend Kenny Barron (captured on 2001’s Freefall). Her new duo pairs her with the outstanding pianist Xavier Davis, a longtime member of her quintet. Davis is esteemed as a powerful accompanist, a partner ideally equipped to support and push Carter into musical terra incognita. ANDREW GILBERT

INFO: 7pm. Kuumbwa Jazz, 320-2 Cedar St., Santa Cruz. $42/adv, $47.25/door. 427-2227.

 

TUESDAY 3/3

FOLK

COLIN HAY

Colin Hay is a true storyteller. Between songs, the former Men at Work singer regales audiences with tales of his more than 30 years in the music industry, tales like: “When you get dropped by a record label, you usually find out from your hairdresser.” Since ’91, Hay has been performing solo, playing a mix of intimate folk songs and Men at Work classics like “Overkill” reworked as intimate folk songs. Now, 39 years after Business as Usual, Hay’s voice and songwriting prowess are as powerful as ever. MH

INFO: 7:30pm. Rio Theatre, 1205 Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz. $35. 423-8209.

New Leaf’s Community Educator Dishes Out Healthy Lifestyle Advice

Tall, raven-haired nutrition consultant Madia Jamgochian is an expert on healthy lifestyles.

Her high-wattage smile and vivacious aura of calm help make her a natural teacher, which is exactly what she is as New Leaf Community Market’s community educator. A Mendocino native who went to UCSB for studies in environmental science and exercise sports science, Jamgochian continued her education and became a certified nutrition consultant. In the fall of 2013 she began working for New Leaf Community Markets. 

“I knew it would be the ideal job for me,” she says of her community educator role. “I jumped on it and have been teaching classes through New Leaf for the past five years.”

Jamgochian worked with me organizing workshops on food and wine pairings a few years back, so I’m personally familiar with her amazing sense of organization and ability to combine wellness concepts and sound nutrition with home cooking tips. “My primary focus is free one-hour nutrition lectures,” she says, “lectures that cover a variety of health topics from how to build better bones to how to get a good night’s sleep.”

Jamgochian is both hands-on and behind-the-scenes at New Leaf, scheduling all the community classroom events for a wide variety of health professionals cycling through the New Leaf calendar.

“January and February are popular months for people to get back ‘on track’ with their health and come learn something new,” Jamgochian believes. “Almost all of my nutrition classes are full this time of year, and it has been great to see some new faces in here along with my class regulars. One of our most popular classes is the Anti-Inflammatory Wellness Series I offer twice a year with my colleague Magali Brecke.” 

Currently offered every February and October, the four-installment class is important to Jamgochian “because we get to spend a whole month with the attendees and they get to really implement the tools we give to help control autoimmune conditions.”

The New Leaf instructor enjoys the point in her classes “when someone has an ‘ah-ha’ moment, or when they go try out something new they learned in class and report back to me about how it has changed their life in one way or another.” When her participants tell her they’ve had success with weight loss, sugar cravings, or lowering pain levels, “these are the times that make me feel like I’m making a difference—helping people feel their best, and showing them that healthy doesn’t have to be difficult.”

Busy is the word when it comes to Jamgochian. 

“The next free nutrition class I have on the schedule is Seeds, Beans and Grains, Wednesday, March 11 from 1pm-2pm,” she says. “We will go over how these foods can be an important part of a healthy diet as well as proper preparation techniques and nutritional benefits.” She typically offers at least one nutrition class a week at the Westside New Leaf. She is also involved with staff nutrition education at UCSC and works with Natural Bridges High School and the Homeless Garden Project.

Jamgochian’s personal consulting business My Healing Habits, online at myhealinghabits.com, combines her background in Traditional Chinese Medicine and nutrition to encourage a food-as-medicine approach to wellness. Look for her upcoming classes on the New Leaf events page at newleaf.com

Coming Up Fast

Watch for David Kinch’s French/Italian dining room and pizzeria Mentone to open up in Aptos Village very soon; ditto on Sean Venus’ new Venus Spirits Cocktails and Kitchen in the Westside. And eagle-eyed winemaker Ryan Beauregard has just signed the papers to lease the now empty Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room, the one in the faux old schoolhouse perched on Highway 1 in Davenport. It’s a smart move, since it will help make Beauregard’s excellent wines more available to, well, shall we say, passers-by?

Love Your Local Band: The Messiahs

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In the 1970s, Snail was the biggest rock band out of Santa Cruz. Heavy blues psych-rockers in the vein of Cream, the four-piece played American Bandstand, toured amphitheaters with Styx and nearly became a household name. But their career was cut short when guitarist Ken Kraft suffered a brain hemorrhage, rendering him unable to ride the wave of momentum they were building.

He’s fine now. In fact, he and singer/guitarist Bob O’Neill have continued to put on the occasional Snail reunions. They have also, for the past 15 years, played together in their other group, the Messiahs. Instead of heavy rock, the two play acoustic guitars and are accompanied by Craig Owens on the bass. No drums. There are a few originals, but they are mostly covers of songs that they “Snail-ize.”

“It’s another way to express, and another way to bring in new ideas,” Kraft says.

Snail hasn’t put on a reunion in a decade, so that has only made the guys want to put more time and energy into the Messiahs. One of the problems they had with Snail was that their rhythm section wasn’t available. They never wanted to throw a Snail show together haphazardly.

“The amount of time it would take for rehearsal time to be up to that standard and that quality would be like, ‘Okay do you want to woodshed for six months, literally?’ We don’t jam for our fans. We’re not going to give you a half-ass show. It’s got to be up to standard,” Kraft says.

Snail will play again this April, and perhaps more frequently. However, the Messiahs will continue to be an active force for Kraft and O’Neill, their acoustic outlet. They see these two projects as two sides of the same coin of their creative collaboration together.

“The Snail thing only happens occasionally, but we want to still keep playing together and experimenting. And that’s what the Messiahs is,” Kraft says.

INFO: 5pm, Friday, Feb. 28. Michaels on Main, 2591 Main St., Soquel. Free. 479-9777. 

Film Review: ‘The Assistant’

Her new job as office assistant to a famous movie mogul ought to be a dream come true for a bright young college graduate with ambitions to produce movies of her own. But it’s starting to feel more like a nightmare for Jane (Julia Garner), the conflicted protagonist in The Assistant. As her duties gradually become more disturbing, we share every ripple of her unease in this taut, claustrophobic and entirely effective psychological drama from filmmaker Kitty Green.

Green was working on a documentary on sexual consent and the abuse of power on college campuses when the first stirrings of the Harvey Weinstein case broke all over the media. She decided to shift from doc to drama to focus her story not on predators or their victims, but on the system of silence and complicity that allows such misconduct to happen. She manages to sketch in this big picture by zeroing in on the tiny details of Jane’s daily routine and how they begin to affect her.

It’s pre-dawn when a car arrives for Jane to ferry her to her workplace. She’s the first one in the office, turning on the lights and making coffee as her two male officemates begin to drift in. Her duties include tidying up the boss’ inner office (and apparently scrubbing down the couch inside. “Never sit on the couch,” one co-worker jokes, when a meeting is called later in the day).

While her male colleagues analyze grosses and box office reports, Jane orders lunch, Xeroxes headshots of pretty young women, and organizes bottles of pills and boxes of syringes. It’s also her job to answer the phone, and if she happens to say the wrong thing to the boss’ irate wife, like revealing he is out of the office, Jane is likely to get an expletive-laden retort from the boss himself a few minutes later. (The guys in the office helpfully dictate her email of abject apology to mollify him.)

Around midday, a fresh-faced young woman (Kristine Froseth) arrives in the outer reception area, reporting for a new assistant job. She’s a waitress from Idaho that the boss apparently met at the Sundance festival, and Jane is directed to take her in a cab to a swanky hotel where the boss is putting her up. Later, her office-mates mention that the boss has gone there, too—information Jane is once again forbidden to reveal to the boss’ wife.

Jane is not a crusader; she doesn’t want to jeopardize her job. But her increasing discomfort over events of the day finally leads her to confide her doubts to the head of HR, hoping for advice. Matthew Macfadyen is terrifically glib and unctuous in the role; in the movie’s most revealing scene, he oozes faux camaraderie as he dismisses her fears—not because they are groundless, but because they are impossible to prove. He parrots back her fragile bits of evidence like a D.A. eviscerating an unreliable witness.

The unnamed boss himself is never seen, he’s just an angry voice ranting over the phone. Filmmaker Green’s design is not to single out any one person’s behavior, but to suggest how the entire system is skewed toward protecting predators in high places. Most important to Green is the psychological toll taken on Jane (and thousands of other low-level drones in her shoes) facing up to the grim fact that enabling is the unspoken part of her job description.

Garner has the pale, porcelain face of a Renaissance angel; it’s almost physically painful to watch her eyes, her expression, her entire demeanor darken with anxiety over the course of her workday. Had her story been told by a male filmmaker, it might have been more action-oriented, shaped more toward an opposition/redemption narrative. In Green’s hands, it’s more an accumulation of small, telling details that become almost interactive in their tacit challenge to the viewer: What would you do?

 

THE ASSISTANT

*** (out of four)

With Julia Garner, Matthew Macfadyen, and Kristine Froseth. Written and directed by Kitty Green. A Bleecker Street release. Rated R. 87 minutes.

River Run’s Spicy Cote D’Aromas

River Run’s Cote D’Aromas is a potpourri of four grape varietals–Syrah, Carignane, Grenache, and Viognier.

It is a pretty good table wine for only $9.99 (at Deer Park Wine and Spirits), and this red blend combination yields a full-bodied spicy wine with intriguing flavors. With its up-front Syrah at the wheel, you’re getting lots of burly tannic structure along with typical Syrah notes of pepper, earth and dark fruits. Winemaker J.P. Pawloski says it pairs well with such diverse dishes as salmon, roast chicken and various meats.

Pawloski is well known around these parts for turning out good wines, but he doesn’t keep up his website, and he is open for tasting only a couple of times a year. If you want to find out when those open-house dates are, you have to call him. River Run is also open by appointment.

River Run Vintners, 65 Rogge Lane, Watsonville. 726-3112. riverrunwines.com.

 

Wine Down Friday at Seascape Sports Club

The popular Bargetto Winery will be featured for tastings and heavy hors d’oeuvres from 6-7:30pm. on Friday, Feb. 21. Cost is $20. Visit seascapesportsclub.com or call 688-1993 for more info.

 

Wine Wednesdays at Seascape Beach Resort

Looking for a fun way to enjoy some good wine and a tasty plate of food mid-week? Then head to Sanderlings Restaurant at Seascape Beach Resort in Aptos. From 5:30-7pm every Wednesday through May 13, four wine varietal tastes are offered by a different winery each week, plus a small-plate meal prepared by Chef Skye McDougal. Cost is $25 per person, including tax and gratuity. There’s live music as well.

Seascape Beach Resort, 1 Seascape Resort Drive, Aptos, 688-6800. seascaperesort.com

 

Martinelli’s Holds Benefit for Second Harvest

Sip for Second Harvest will be held at Martinelli’s Company Store as a benefit for Second Harvest Food Bank. Enjoy fine wines from 15 wineries and light snacks by Cilantro’s from 2-4pm on Sunday, Feb. 23. Visit thefoodbank.org/wine2020 for more info and tickets.

Martinelli’s Company Store, 345 Harvest Drive, Watsonville.

Tracing the History of the Burger

From the dawn of the baby boomer right up until today, there has always been a hamburger on the American menu.

It was the go-to casual lunch item. It was an easy-eatin’ patio dining staple. Anybody could make one and every menu offered one. Nobody didn’t like a hamburger it seems, at least in those days before the meat-free lifestyle became a thing. Since the launch of McDonald’s and Burger King in the 1950s there have been hamburger joints all over the planet. McDonald’s sells 75 hamburgers per second, according to an article six year ago in Parade Magazine (which means that number has probably quintupled by now). Ergo it’s a big, big deal, the hamburger.

If you just dropped in from Mars and wanted a big, juicy, classic burger, almost any restaurant would be able to comply, especially in Santa Cruz. Gabriella’s is opulent. Oswald’s is textbook. Parish Publick House’s is righteous. Upmarket Alderwood made sure it had a serious burger in place the minute it opened last year. Cafe Cruz has burgers so good you want to live there permanently.

It’s as simple as a patty of ground beef, grilled and served on a bun with tomato, lettuce, onions, pickles and condiments that include ketchup, mayo, and mustard. So popular is the entire concept of a hamburger that in the 21st century of diversity dining, it has even spawned a vegetarian döppelganger called the Impossible Burger. It seems inevitable that those desiring a burger, just without the meat, would devise a way to turn soy protein into something to satisfy that craving. That the hamburger is a popular, ubiquitous item on mainstream menus and on many home dining tables cannot be questioned.

Perhaps the real question is twofold: Where did it come from, and why do we love it?

The first question leads into the murky zone of meta-history, which lies very close to urban mythology and fake news. Let’s see if we can trace origins through the name itself. No, there isn’t ham in a hamburger. Yes, there is a town in northern Germany named Hamburg, where people have loved meat in many forms for a long time. In the 18th century there was something called the Hamburg steak, made from beef that had been minced, mixed with some seasonings and formed into patties. The Hamburg steak might trace its ancestry to Genghis Khan and his buddies who invaded Russia and introduced minced meat, a version of steak tartare, to what is now Germany. Hamburg was one of those port towns doing a brisk trade with Russia and steak tartare quickly morphed into the Hamburg steak, a patty of minced beef served with onions and capers.

Sounds close, right? But someone had to finish the equation. That someone might have been a German immigrant, arriving in New York and opening a restaurant. Doing what they knew best, they might have started offering Hamburg steaks on their menus (sort of a German cousin to the very similar Salisbury steak, which many recall from the mid-20th century infancy of the TV dinner). The Salisbury steak also involved minced or ground beef but included gravy. No gravy on a Hamburg steak.

As early as 1876, Delmonico’s in New York offered a Hamburg steak on its menu. The Boston Cooking School Cookbook published in 1844 included a recipe for Broiled Meat Cakes, which involved chopping lean, raw beef into a fine mince, shaping it into small flat cakes, and broiling.

What was lacking was the bun, so that the meat patty could be easy to eat while standing, sitting in a car, walking, picnicking, and on one’s lunch break.

Once liberated from its original identity issue—trying to be a steak—the hamburger came into its own as a patty of ground beef usually fried or grilled into submission, placed between toasted halves of a bun, and consumed with French fries or onion rings. (Okay, and/or potato chips.)

The Bilby Family of Tulsa, Okla., claims to have been the first to put a hamburger on a bun before serving. Surely it didn’t take long for folks to realize that a hot slab of beef can wreak havoc with slices of bread. Bread didn’t have the staying power—the gravitas, if you will—to contain the burger plus its hot juices. It was probably the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904 (see Vincent Minnelli’s Meet Me in St. Louis, starring Judy Garland, for reference), that put the hamburger as we know it on the U.S. map.

We’ve got eateries named for burgers. Betty Burgers, Jack’s Hamburgers, even two places whose names are simply Burger. Fast food specialists like McDonald’s, Wendy’s and Burger King aside, there’s now a new Belly Goat Burger located inside Abbott Square food court. The brain-child of chef Anthony Kresge, Belly offers a vegan Portobello burger in addition to a 100% grass-fed beef hamburger. 

The ante continues to rise. Instead of mere buns, there are now brioche buns. Instead of ground chuck, there’s grass-fed free-range Wagyu. Condiments continue to evolve. Organic caramelized onions, guacamole, sauteed mushrooms, housemade pickles, Jarlsberg cheese, feta sriracha mayo, and sugar-cured bacon. 

Paul Cocking of Gabriella Cafe claims a few distinctions for his burger. It arrives wrapped in Blue Heron farms butter lettuce, plus the bun is made with a focaccia dough. “Puts it over the top,” he claims. And many diners agree. Geoff Hargrave from East End Gastropub says that his burger made of 100% grass fed beef with lettuce, onion, homemade pickles and house sauce on a locally-baked bun “has become a staple among our regulars.” At Solaire, the Black and Blue Burger is made of blackened Angus topped with blue cheese aioli. Mmm! And the Oswald folks do their version on a brioche bun plus housemade aioli and seasonal toppings from caramelized Izard onions in winter to cornichons in summer.

Yes, the burger has come a long way from the days of Genghis Khan and his steak tartare-loving hordes. However you like them, impossible or 100% grass-fed, they are a delicious fixture of American dining.

So, why do we love the hamburger? Maybe because it’s gooey, hot, delicious, loaded with unctuous flavor and involves all the flavor groups except sugar. 

But we probably love the hamburger because we can.

Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth Craving With Burger’s Luther

For this year’s Burger Week, skip the traditional sesame buns for something a bit sweeter: a glazed Ferrell’s donut.

The donut is a feature of the Luther, a sweet and savory specialty at the restaurant aptly named Burger. It is a perfect example of one of the purposes of Burger Week, putting a spotlight on intriguing burgers. Both Burger locations in Santa Cruz and Aptos are participating in Santa Cruz Burger Week. Keira Avitia, manager of the Santa Cruz Burger location, fills us in on the details of what they are cooking up for this delectable week.

What will be your burger special for the week?

Avitia: We will be offering our most sought-after burger, the Luther. We will be serving this bad boy for only $10, and it comes with a side of fries or coleslaw. It’s a pretty sweet deal! 

Which Burger restaurants will be participating for the event? Which burger do you recommend trying during this week?

The Luther is a delicious combination of a sweet glazed donut, cut in half, lightly toasted, and then turned inside out to make the perfect donut bun. On the inside we take our 100% juicy grass-fed beef, thick bacon, and melty American cheese and top that with our house-made sauce … it makes for the perfect amount of sweet, yet savory! We really couldn’t think of a better combo. We pick up donuts daily from our friends over at Ferrell’s Donuts on Mission Street, just a few blocks away. Check them out! 

Why did you guys decide to participate this year? 

We live by the rule that every week is Burger Week (hence the name). We serve up burgers all day every day. Every year, Burger Week comes along and we have a huge customer base that asks for something special for the occasion. This year, we thought, give the people what they want!

Burger, 1520 Mission St., Santa Cruz, and 7941 Soquel Drive, Aptos. burgerlovesbeer.com.

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