This areaโs most anticipated restaurant opening of the year is about to launch in Santa Cruz County.
Aptos Village is the home of chef David Kinchโs latest culinary adventure, Mentone (pronounced โmen-tawn-eh.โ). The chef and creator of three-star Michelin restaurant Manresa, Kinch has lived in Santa Cruz for the past 22 years. And while his heart belongs to the Central Coast, right now his mind is fixated on the French/Italian Riviera and the town of Menton, where Mirazur has just captured its third Michelin star.
Itโs one of Kinchโs favorite dining spots, so to celebrate the honor, heโll join Mirazur chef Mauro Colagreco for some culinary creativity. โWeโll be cooking on the beach for 120 lucky people,โ Kinch says with a grin.
So smitten is Kinch with this stretch of cinematic Riviera that he has named his new Aptos restaurant after Menton. โItโs the Italian version of the French townโs name,โ he explains. This region was part of the Republic of Genoa right up until 1860, when it became part of France. Hence the co-mingled cuisines from Italy and the south of France at the new restaurantโMediterranean coastal cuisine spun through Kinchโs own California vision.ย
The Inspiration
โIt reminds me of our stretch of coastline,โ Kinch says of the azure European coast discovered while visiting friends on culinary visits and cooking odysseys. Anyone whoโs visited the South of France, or the Ligurian coast between Nice and Genoa, can understand exactly why he would be taken by the bold, sun-drenched flavors of the region.
After all, this is the place that gave us focaccia, salame and pesto. Far from the concept-intensive world of Manresa, this Kinch eatery will be casual enough to highlight pizzaโfueled by Kinchโs inventiveness and the freshly milled flour from Manresa Bread, the bakery branch of Manresa powered by superstar baker Avery Ruzicka.
The Place
Why Aptos? โMy business partner Andrew Burnham found this opportunity,โ Kinch says. โAnd he urged me to buy the building.โ The chef has been steadily building his brand since he opened Manresa in Los Gatos in 2002, and the restaurant earned its first two Michelin stars in 2007 (it was upgraded to three in 2016). Kinch had been looking for a new restaurant space in downtown Santa Cruz for a few years. Bywater, the more casual, New Orleans-inspired restaurant he opened in 2016, is also located in Los Gatos.
โI wanted to be on this side of the hill,โ Kinch says. โI like expanding our reach. I think we can fill a need.โ
He also looks forward to a minimal commute. โRight now, Iโm waiting to buildโjust waiting for the final signing,โ Kinch says. โWe spent most of last year working on this. Theyโve built the shell. It just needs finishing inside.โ The food entrepreneur says the end result โwill evoke the area we were inspired by, as well as our own Central Coast.โย
The Setup
Yes, there will be a full bar, โwith a lot of amaros and Italian wines,โ he says. The chef at Mentone will be Matt Bowden, currently Executive Sous Chef at Manresa. โIf Iโm in town, Iโll be in the kitchen, too,โ says Kinch, happy finessing the pizzas. โWeโre going to be doing five pies using a Mugnaini wood-fired oven. We have our own mill, and can now mill our own grains.โ The flavor and freshness, he contends, cannot be rivaled. โIโm developing pastasโweโll make lots of pastas,โ he says. โItโs going to be simple. Itโs going to be food inspired by the region.โ Authentic, yes, โbut with my own spin.โ
“Weโre having a lot of fun working on this,โ he says. โAndrew Burnham is a great business partner. Heโs my partner at the bakery, and with the restaurants. Andrewโs business expertise allows me to work the food side.โ
The Menu
Kinchโs concepts can be subtle, and tend to defy categorization. But the seasons and the geographical setting are invariably folded into his menus. He shows me a glamorous shot of actors Catherine Deneuve and Marcello Mastroianni at the height of their cinematic fame and beauty. โThatโs on our brand,โ he says with obvious pleasure. Two film stars, one French, one Italian. Thatโs the sizzle Kinch wants for Mentone, accessible and appealing.
There will be pesto, farinata, ratatouille, pizza, and, โWeโre developing our own focaccia,โ Kinch says.
The new spot will be kid-friendly, headds, โlike a trattoria.โ Dinner-only at first, six nights a week, with perhaps a brunch on Saturday and Sunday. โWeโll have take out,โ he promises.
Kinch fans can look forward to โa lot of custom salames, like culatello, coppa,โ specialty charcuterie that will be made for Kinch in the Bay Area. โAnd a wine list that harmonizes with the food. Itโll be a short wine list, 30 reds and 30 whites, Provencal and Ligurian wines. Some Sicilian whites, Dolcetto dโAlba, a Cotes Ventoux, and of course Bandol.โ Cioppino? โDefinitely. But Central Coast style,โ he says. โWeโll make it with Dungeness crab and abalone from Monterey.โ
Kinch is elbow-deep in tinkering and experimenting with pastas for the Mentone menu. โIโve perfected cacio et pepe,โ he says with an impish grin. โAnd Iโm working on pesto. Pesto is one of the greatest sauces.โ
Kinch wants the best and freshest produce from local growers for Mentone. โWeโre working with several organic growers now,โ says the chef, who famously had biodynamic specialties grown exclusively for his restaurant. Heโs especially excited about using custom-grown Genovese basil. The magic chemistry of garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and basil is one of Italyโs greatest gifts to cuisine. โOur trenette al pesto [made with three different varieties of basil] will have a California spin,โ says Kinch. And then he reveals the secret California ingredient in his pesto, which I will not divulge.
The Star
Anthony Bourdain once described Kinchโs cooking as โwildly creative โฆ beautifully presented and surprisingly minimalistโvery, very tasty.โ Kinch keeps living up to that assessment.
After learning everything he could in top kitchens in New York, San Francisco and Europe, Kinch opened a small, Catalan-inspired dining room in Saratoga in 1995 called Sent Sovi, which is where I first tasted his cooking. Then came Manresa, where the Michelin stars began to accumulate, as did international culinary guest chef gigs and James Beard awards, including Best Chef: Pacific in 2010. Born in Philadelphia and raised in Louisiana, Kinch opened Bywater as a spicy love letter to the Cajun and Creole foods of his New Orleans roots. But now his imagination has zeroed in on the Mediterranean climate of his current home.
Fit and tanned, drinking iced green tea at the Delmarette, Kinch has just returned from two weeks of cooking and eating in Toulouse, Marseilles, Genoa, and the Dolomites. โIโm doing less and less guest chef gigs,โ he insists, suddenly looking reflective. โIโm getting near the end of expansion, and I donโt know what I might do next. Thereโs still a lot of French bistro cooking Iโd like to do. But I tend to take baby steps,โ he admits. โI like to get everything lined up and worked out in advance.โ
There are a lot of reasons Kinch enjoys living here. โItโs close to the ocean, itโs got the university and all the activity that goes with that,โ he says. โIโve lived in Manhattan and in San Francisco. I donโt want a big city anymore. I need a separation between my personal and professional life.โ
Food is the focus of his life, and it always was. โI fell into that rabbit hole early on, and pretty hard. Iโm always curious. And Iโm not afraid to learn.โ
But Kinch says he needs to recharge a few times a year. โEspecially as I get older,โ says the 58-year-old chef. โFor me, itโs always a beach. I relax, surf, sleep a lot, have a rum drink at two in the afternoon. It helps to reorganize my priorities. I try to do that twice a year.โ
His favorite thing to do is having great restaurant meal. โFine diningโthatโs where the ideas are,โ he says. What he loves is not so much particular dishes, but โexperiencing the whole place, the chefโs vision.โ
Kinch says he tries not to travel during the summers so he can stay home in Santa Cruz. โIโve got the beach, I cook at home. Simple picnic foodsโpastas, tomato salads, roast chicken, very simple.โ But right now, heโs not exactly kicking back. In addition to overseeing the finishing touches on Mentone, heโs just signed a second cookbook deal and currently spends the mornings working on recipes. โThe manuscript is due in November, and then photography for the cookbook will start.โ He suddenly remembers, โIโve got a busy travel schedule in November.โ
On that note, Kinch zooms off on his powder blue Vespa looking every inch the seasideโSanta CruzโItalian.ย
Mentone
Location: Aptos Village
Size: 3,000 sq. feet; seating for 100
Chef de Cuisine: Matt Bowden, executive sous chef at Manresa
Special features: Full bar; Italian and California wines; Mugnaini wood-fired pizza oven
Cuisine: French/Italian/Coastal Californiaโpasta, pizza, cioppino, focaccia, custom salames
Ambience: Casual; family friendly
Opening date: Late summer/early fall 2019
Other David Kinch projects: Look for the upcoming Mineta San Jose Airport installation of California Market by David Kinchโa dining, bakery, coffee and bar experience curated and designed by the James Beard Award-winning chef.
Update: This story previously misstated the birthplace of David Kinch and misspelled the name of Avery Ruzicka.