Soif’s New Chef Serves Up Hearty Winter Menu

Chef Tom McNary’s winter menu at Soif is long on New American comfort dishes accented by seasonal sides. Citrus relish, roasted root veggies, hearty meats, and salads that pay attention to top local ingredients.

Three of us met last week to celebrate the holiday season, the shortest days of the year, and longstanding friendship. And of course, to sample some of the new items on Soif’s menu after McNary took the helm of the downtown Santa Cruz restaurant and wine bar in October.

It was a night for indulgence, and so we chose some very nice wines to accompany our meal. Patti likes Pinot Noir, so for her there was a gorgeous French Burgundy from Michel Sarrazin 2017 ($12), with pert tannins, spice and dark berries in the finish. Melody splurged on a 2010 Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino ($18), and I treated myself to an opulent, plummy, meaty 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape from Roger Perrin ($20) that was worth every penny.

We also had some food with our terrific trio of red wines, starting with shared plates of fat, fragrant arancini ($11) and Dungeness crab salad ($14). Our server supplied extra plates so that we could sample freely.

Spheres of arborio rice arrived generously dusted with parmesan and piping hot, so that every forkful revealed a molten core of fontina. A spicy tomato sauce added piquance to this very appealing starter. The salad offered an over-abundance of lettuces, fennel and citrus, though rather less crab than we had hoped. Colorful with slices of watermelon radish, the salad relied on pastel morsels of winter citrus for much of its impact. We might have liked a smaller portion—this was a very large salad—where the crab meat could have made a bigger impression.

My entree of diver scallops  ($34) was beautiful to the eye. Three huge, perfectly cooked scallops on a cloud of celery root puree, adorned with slender parsnips and carrots, and deep green beet leaves. Again, the grapefruit and citrus relish threatened to overwhelm the delicate shellfish.

Melody’s grilled ribeye was a hit ($33). Excellent beef, sliced so that the crimson interior showed off nicely, came with a rich Bordelaise red wine and demi-glace sauce. A plump pillow of scalloped potatoes sat on one side of the plate, which was ringed with buds of chartreuse romanesco and sweet roast carrots. The house dinner plates are quite large and allow for a wide margin of what we in publishing call “creative white space” around the main attraction. The central culinary ideas tend to gather in the middle of each plate.

Patti’s burger of ground ribeye ($18) was another star entree. Thanks to the huge dinner platters, the burger arrived with a landslide of french fries that might have served the entire Golden State Warriors team. We actually had to chuckle at the sheer quantity of fries. The burger was perfect! On a tasty, soft brioche bun, with aioli, pickled veggies and a deep well of ketchup, it was a great value for its price.

Along with decaf and a glass of port, we attacked a lemon tart dessert with three forks ($10). Indulgence shared feels less naughty, we agreed. Decorated with remarkably ripe, flavorful raspberries and an oval of whipped cream—also embedded with raspberries—the tart let us down. The crust was a bit thick, and the thin layer of lemon filling lacked bold citrus punch. This was a polite tart, rather than a tart tart.

The sweet sounds of live jazz sent us happily out into the chilly evening. Remember, Mondays at Soif involve music starting at 6:30 p.m. Plan your seating accordingly.

Soif Restaurant & Wine Bar, 105 Walnut Ave., Santa Cruz. 423-2020, soifwine.com.

Film Review: ‘The Favourite’

The work of filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos is an acquired taste, like pig’s feet or blood pudding. It appeals to those with an appetite for caustic low comedy, sexual intemperance, and human venality, all whipped into a heavy bouillabaisse and set to full boil. His peculiar sensibility seems to resonate with a lot of viewers, especially critics, since his breakout movie, the alternative-reality satire The Lobster, in 2015. Now he applies his worldview to the 18th century in the period piece The Favourite, with decidedly mixed results.

The movie has a nodding acquaintance with historical reality. The story is set in the time of England’s Queen Anne, in the first decade of the 1700s, and concerns her relationships with her close friend and confidante, Lady Sarah Churchill (ancestor of you-know-who) and the genteel servant Abigail. All are historical personages, and Lanthimos and scriptwriters Deborah Davis and Tony McNamara should be commended for combing through history to find a tale featuring three juicy parts for actresses in a story about women jockeying for position in a man’s world.

Queen Anne (a terrific Olivia Colman) is portrayed as imperious and quicksilver in her temperament, yet timorous about her ability to actually lead. She’s kept on track by the politically astute Lady Sarah (Rachel Weisz), whose war hero husband, the Duke of Marlborough, is off fighting the French. The women have been besties since girlhood.

Enter Abigail (Emma Stone) a distant relation of Sarah’s hoping to find employment at court. Once a lady but fallen on hard times, she’s ambitious to regain her station and follows Sarah’s example in everything—particularly her attention to the queen. When she spies an intimacy beyond mere friendship between Anne and Lady Sarah, Abigail sees her way forward.

This Abigail is an All About Eve-style opportunist, ruthlessly pursuing her own agenda beneath an innocent exterior. However, the simmering stew of erotic sexual politics between the three women (and the occasional man onscreen long enough to register, like Nicholas Hoult as foppish, insinuating opposition party leader Harley) has its basis in speculation at the time over Anne’s sexuality that continues today.

Lanthimos often flings history aside, sometimes in entertaining ways, like the palace ball scenes where deadpan, extravagantly costumed dancers dip, flip and haul each other around in moves better suited to an ice-skating arena or hip-hop stage. There are other moments of unexpected tenderness in this witches’ brew of intrigue, as when Anne introduces Abigail to her 17 pet rabbits—each one named for one of the children Anne has borne and lost.

This tragic part of Anne’s history is true (well, I’m not sure about the rabbits). But the narrative often goes awry, if not historically, in terms of its weirdly comic tone. With her husband off at the front and her hands full of delicate diplomacy, when does Lady Sarah find the time to go shooting birds with Abigail? Yes, it’s metaphor, with Sarah losing her mentor status as Abigail’s aim grows more precise, but two such comparative scenes (instead of four) would get the point across.

The point of other sequences is more obscure, like the lords’ mania for duck racing. Or a giggling, middle-aged aristo, naked under an enormous wig, shown dodging missives flung by a bunch of cackling nobles. On the night of her wedding to a smitten young lord, a scowling bride is too busy scheming to offer her new husband anything more than indifferent hand service.

Lanthimos may be taking aim at human folly—greed, ambition, depravity, especially among the oh-so-idle rich—but that’s a broad target. He coaxes excellent performances out of all three of his lead actresses, Colman in particular as the cranky, unhappy, insecure queen. But as the fortunes of these women rise and fall, and viewer sympathies are meant to keep shifting, the characters as written never achieve the resonance that would keep viewers engaged and invested in them. They remain pawns in an exercise of mannered absurdity.

THE FAVOURITE

** (out of four)

With Emma Stone, Rachel Weisz, and Olivia Colman. Written by Deborah Davis and Tony McNamara. Directed by Yorgos Lanthimos. A Fox Searchlight release. Rated R. 131 minutes.

New Vice Mayor Justin Cummings Shakes Up Santa Cruz Politics

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Santa Cruz has a new mayor, and her name is Martine Watkins.

Watkins, who just wrapped up her one-year term as vice mayor this week, began her new role at the end of Tuesday night’s meeting. Also at the Dec. 11 meeting, the Santa Cruz City Council voted to make newly elected City Councilmember Justin Cummings the town’s new vice mayor.

Councilmember Chris Krohn, who supported Cummings’ campaign, made the nomination, behind a newly minted City Council majority. The change marks first time in two decades that a newly elected City Council candidate has transitioned right from his swearing in into the vice mayor seat. By conventional wisdom, the post puts Cummings next in line to be mayor.

He could not be reached for comment by deadline, but in his remarks Tuesday night, Cummings said he was looking forward to working collaboratively with colleagues and staff.

At the same meeting, City Clerk Bonnie Bush swore in the two other new councilmembers—Donna Meyers, who finished second, and Drew Glover, who ran on a slate with Cummings. Cummings and Glover are the first African American men to serve on the council. Meyers is the city’s first openly lesbian councilmember.

The council unanimously confirmed Krohn’s vice mayor nomination of Cummings.

Customarily, the top two vote-getters from each election each serve a one-year term as vice mayor and another as mayor, although the actual decision is left up to the council. Meyers nominated Councilmember Cynthia Mathews, the second-leading vote getter in the 2016 election, to be vice mayor. Meyers cited Mathews’ years of service and her work protecting women’s health.

Mathews withdrew the nomination, signaling a desire to move forward, adding that she enjoyed getting to know Cummings in recent months and that she did not want to further a perception that politics in Santa Cruz is divisive. (Under a majority led by Krohn, Mathews’ nomination would likely not have had the votes to pass.)

The shift in order marks the first disruption to the mayoral norm since 1998, at the beginning of the last term Krohn served on the council. That’s when Krohn and his newly elected fellow councilmembers Keith Sugar and Tim Fitzmaurice shook up the rotation for mayor. The specifics were different, but the council voted to appoint Katherine Beiers to the mayorship, in lieu of then-Vice Mayor Mike Rotkin, who had been the top vote-getter two years prior, and customarily would have been next in line. Sugar became the vice mayor.

Over the course of their shared four-year council term, Sugar, Fitzmaurice and Krohn would each serve a year as mayor.

Beiers says many activists told her at the time that they felt she should be mayor, and that Rotkin shouldn’t. Rotkin, she says, had just gotten caught ripping down a campaign sign for Fitzmaurice. She also says that one of her colleagues had also disrupted the chain, stepping in line in front of her a few years earlier. Rotkin says that the campaign sign was just a misunderstanding. The property owner, he says, had asked him to take down the sign and put up a different political one. He claims Beiers had asked him if he would be willing to simply let her serve her term as mayor first for personal reasons, and that that’s the reason he went along with it, not realizing he would miss out on his chance.

With three new councilmembers on the dais in 2018, local politicos are now looking forward. Krohn says his decision to nominate Cummings wasn’t just about politics, but also about his leadership style. “Right person, right time,” he says.

After the election results confirmed earlier this month that Meyers came in second at the polls, many voters thought that she would end up serving a year as vice mayor and another as mayor during her time on the council. Krohn isn’t ready to say who he might support for vice mayor at the end of 2019.

“I won’t go there yet,” he says. “Let’s just get this year done first and see how it goes.”

Love Your Local Band: Christmas With the Misfits

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Ah, Christmas. A time for Santa, presents and the music of horror-punk band the Misfits. OK, maybe that last one pertains only to Santa Cruz. After all, where else can one go to experience Christmas With the Misfits, the annual holiday benefit concert featuring local and regional bands covering Misfits songs?

“It really is a big party,” says founder Nick Anchorheart. “We have a Christmas tree on stage, everything is decorated, and some of the bands even throw a Christmas song into their set.”

For its sixth incarnation, this ghoul’s night out will feature performances by made-up Santa Cruz bands 831 (members of Stellar Corpses and Hayride to Hell), 5:25 (members of Get Married) and Midnight Mass (members of Requiem) along with Face For Radio (Fresno), and 12 Steps To Nothing (San Jose). Anchorheart’s band, the Sea Wolves, will also be performing under the moniker Fiend Wolves.

“I love mixing up the genres and getting bands that aren’t necessarily the same style as the Misfits,” he chuckles. “One year we did a doo-wop version of one of the songs.”

So, how did Misfits, a band who wrote “Mommy, Can I Go Out And Kill Tonight?” and “Die, Die My Darling” become associated with the holiday season?

It began in 2011, when Anchorheart threw a Misfits-themed show around Halloween. He tried to repeat it the following year, but there were no open dates. His wife, Samantha, suggested he instead do a tongue-in-cheek Christmas show. It was a surprise hit.

Since its inception, the holiday concert has operated as a benefit show and raised money for Grind Out Hunger and Imagine Supported Living. This year, all proceeds will benefit the Santa Cruz County Animal Shelter. Patrons can also donate through buying raffle tickets and gift certificates donated by Streetlight Records, Black Pearl Tattoo and Starving Musician. Attendees can bring a new toy, to be donated to the children’s ward at Natividad Hospital in Salinas, for five raffle tickets.

“I want to get the community as involved as possible, and keep everything local,” Anchorheart says. 

INFO: 8 p.m., Sunday, Dec. 16, Catalyst, 1011 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz. $10. 423-1338.

Willow Glen Children’s Theatre Celebrates 30th Year

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This is a big year for one of the area’s most iconic children’s theater groups, and not just because it’s the 30th anniversary of the Willow Glen Children’s Theatre. It’s also because this is the first year that WGCT’s holiday performances—which run Friday, Dec. 14 through Sunday, Dec. 16—won’t be overseen by founding director Gavin Coffing, who started the organization three decades ago and wrote an original play for each season.

This season, that responsibility fell to the replacement Coffing handpicked, Jordan Collier. The 28-year-old Collier has been involved with WGCT for almost 20 years, and a staff member for 13 years. She still remembers her very first day at WGCT, when she was 9 years old.

“My mom just kind of signed me up,” says Collier. “That first day I made a little friend, and I just loved it. My first play, I had two lines. The whole environment was so much fun.”

One of the things that makes WGCT unusual is that all of the kids who sign up for a season of WGCT get lines in the play. In fact, the lines are sort of written for them, as the group’s director observes the season’s participants from the very first Saturday morning meeting, over the course of a few weeks. The weekly gatherings start out with improv and other acting games for the kids, who generally range from age 7 through older teens. As the director begins to write the play, parts are handed out and rehearsals begin, culminating in the weekend of performances. The whole process takes just over two months, and allows the kids to see the whole process of production.

This year, the task of writing the play has fallen to Collier. “It’s definitely a little intimidating,” she admits. “But I’m really very honored that Gavin trusted me to continue this program that he put his blood, sweat and tears into. I’m just trying to honor what he’s created, because I think it’s important. We really want to make every participant feel like they have their time to shine.”

Collier’s first play is called Here, There, Everywhere, and follows two friends as they investigate the disappearance of a wealthy, eccentric old man from their neighborhood. Various clues lead them to encounter a number of characters over the course of the story.

“I do love mysteries. I always have,” she admits. And despite the many challenges she’s run into, she also loves working with the more than two dozen kids who are involved this season. She’s not surprised to see them bonding, as she did with the kids she first performed with—many of whom are her fellow SGCT staff members now, and some of whom now have nieces and nephews who are currently in the program.

“It’s always been such a close group,” she says.

Armitage Wines’ Limited-Edition Crimson Wonder

Looking for something fabulous for your Christmas table? The 2017 Merlot made by Brandon Armitage is a winner.

Entering the portals of Armitage Wines’ Aptos tasting room recently, I was thrilled to find that Armitage is now making Merlot and Chardonnay along with the wine he’s most known for, Pinot Noir. “I branched out,” Armitage laughed as he served wine at a recent event for wine club members. Tasting room manager Jeanne Earley busily prepared delicious-looking appetizers to serve to the packed house.

Armitage’s expertly made wines are in high demand—and they sell out quickly. The 2017 Merlot ($60) is a crimson wonder, made with grapes harvested from Fowl Play Vineyard in Scotts Valley. The property falls under the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA and is just down the road from the old Alfred Hitchcock estate where Armitage farms Pinot Noir grapes.

Fewer than 100 cases were produced of this exceptional Merlot, which overflows with aromas of plum and chocolate and deep flavors of vanilla, coffee and red fruits.

Armitage says the 2017 is very European in style—“French, even”—because of the low-alcohol content of only 12 percent. “He calls it a ‘winemaker’s wine,’” says Earley. “He strives to keep the alcohol level down, which is hard to do as the world gets hotter.”

Armitage pours his heart and soul into winemaking—and one can feel the love in every bottle. “The only thing that inherently exists within all things is Love,” his label declares.

Armitage Tasting Room, 105C Post Office Drive, Aptos. 708-2874, armitagewines.com. Open weekly Wednesday-Sunday.

Companion Bakeshop

I’m absolutely nuts about Companion Bakeshop’s buckwheat blueberry scone ($3). Devilishly dark and delicious, you’d never know this crunchy-round-the-edges treat is gluten-free. Everything they make is top notch, including their freshly baked bread.

At the end of November, Companion opened a new outpost in Aptos Center at 7486 Soquel Drive—and they’re serving Cat & Cloud coffee, too. My cup runneth over.

Visit companionbakeshop.com for locations, including farmers markets, or call 252-2253.

Opinion: December 12, 2018

EDITOR’S NOTE

The mainstream media did everything it could to avoid acknowledging voters’ repudiation of Donald Trump in this last election, rushing out a thousand headlines that were some variation on “Blue Wave Turns Out to Be Nothing More Than a Blue Ripple.” Only after weeks of taking in the final results, with Democrats piling up 40 flipped seats in the House, did we start to see headlines like CNN’s “Latest House Results Confirm 2018 Wasn’t a Blue Wave, It Was a Blue Tsunami.”

Here in California, it was a different story—absolutely no one was disputing the victory of progressive politics across the state (even in Orange County!) But many pundits still acted like this result came out of nowhere. Guess what, talking heads, it didn’t! In fact, there have been progressive politicians working hard for years to bring those values back to government. This week, Geoffrey Dunn profiles one of the leaders of that movement, our own State Senator Bill Monning. His story provides the context that has been sorely lacking in the mainstream coverage about the election and the state of the state’s politics.

A few other important things to mention: as always, we’re doing a story every week about one of the local nonprofits you can support through Santa Cruz Gives. Read this week’s story by Georgia Johnson about Watsonville Wetlands Watch in the news section, and then go to santacruzgives.org and give to the group or groups doing the work that is most important to you. Also, voting for the Best of Santa Cruz County 2019 awards begins this week! Go to goodtimes.sc to find the ballot and get your results in early! And another thing you can find this week at goodtimes.sc are the answers to your big questions about Santa Cruz, as researched by UCSC’s Science Communication program students. We’re posting them one at a time, and it’s interesting stuff. Check it out!

STEVE PALOPOLI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Read the latest letters to the editor here.

Break the Rules

I loved the profile of Martha Hudson (“Change Maker,” GT 12/5) for many reasons. As a lifelong rule-follower (albeit grudgingly), it allowed me to live vicariously through someone who has chosen a very different lifestyle from my own. And, yes, I’m a bit envious. I also admire her determination to empower other women and non-binary folks to chart their own courses.

As a girl growing up in the Midwest in the ’60s and ’70s, I wasn’t allowed to wear pants to my (public) school until the rules were changed in third grade. Besides severely restricting my playground activities, this incensed my 6-year-old sense of fairness. At my summer camp, girls were forbidden from wearing Speedo swimsuits, because they were deemed too arousing for the boys.

Someday, the body-shaming cultural messages and norms that Ms. Hudson and others are working so hard to counteract will seem as ridiculous as the rules girls of my era were subjected to.

Lizanne Reynolds
Aptos

CEQA Abuse

I was trained in CEQA at Cal State Hayward. The Geography Department established a class to learn and practice the law back in the early ’80s. We each had to work up an actual project. I was able to write over 80 pages of comments for a TV transmission tower in the Bay Area. It was obvious to us twentysomethings that the implementation of the law was going to become riddled with abuse. It needs to be reformed, but how? You can’t take away people’s right to use the law and litigation as a means toward the end of stopping a project they do not like or want.

I worked as an environmental protection specialist for a good portion of my career. I observed the gradual expansion of the implementation process, and the increasing abuse that came as part of the deal. Government was looking for more work and revenue. Neighbors were looking to kill projects by a thousand paper cuts and financial extractions. Opportunistic lawyers were looking for an easy mark. I believe CEQA lawsuits are now the number one tool used by project opposition to stop work across the state.

A lot of the abuse happens behind the scenes. Confidentiality and non-disclosure are certainly part of the litigation. It would be interesting to know not only how many projects have been shaken down in public litigation, but also in confidential settlements, and what the ultimate cost is. I had written a comment back in October about “litigation ahead” for the Ocean Street project. I was excoriated for that comment.

Frankly, the majority opinion I see expressed over and over by residents in the county is a desire to chase away any change. We want our exclusive paradise all to ourselves. The City of Santa Cruz is the poster child for this attitude, where the main battle is now a battle to crush rental property owners. The students think they are going to get cheap rent. The joke’s on them. Property values and rents will continue their upward climb, interrupted by the inevitable economic downturns, and a dribble of public money will continue to go toward homelessness, rent subsidies, road expansion, and the other social ills created by the abuse of law to stop any meaningful building of housing.

Michael Cox
Soquel


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GOOD IDEA

The annual Homeless Memorial will gather at 10 a.m. on Thursday, Dec. 20 at Homeless Services Center (HSC) to honor the homeless who have died in the past year. This year marks the 20th ceremony remembering less fortunate residents who have passed. From HSC, guests will walk to nearby Evergreen Cemetery to look at a proposed permanent homeless memorial site. There is overflow parking at the Tannery, although guests are encouraged to bike, carpool, bus or walk. For more information, visit santacruzhsc.org.


GOOD WORK

If the holidays are all about generosity, warmth and spreading cheer, a group of local Girl Scouts has certainly risen to the occasion. As a part of its holiday charity project, Girl Scout Troop 10213 of Aptos donated more than 50 jackets to Dominican Hospital over the weekend. The 10- and 11-year-olds collected the coats through donation drives at elementary schools. The jackets went in the hospital’s “patient closet.” They’ll be given to any patient who needs a coat when they leave.


QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“Reality has a well-known liberal bias.”

-Stephen Colbert

5 Things To Do in Santa Cruz: December 12-18

A weekly guide to what’s happening.

Green Fix

Boardwalk Holiday Ice

Ice skating at the beach is one of Santa Cruz’s most iconic holiday events. The ice skating rink is open to all ages and ability levels—whether you can barely stand or you’re the next Tonya Harding, all are welcome. It does get chilly with all of the coastal snow flurries, so be sure to cozy up next to the fire pits with some hot cocoa after. Open rain or shine, online reservations recommended.

INFO: Runs through Jan. 6. Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz. 423-5590, beachboardwalk.com. One-hour session includes $15 ice skate rental.

Art Seen

Prison Arts Project Art Poetry

Because of the limited amount of materials local art teacher Tripura Anand could bring into the Santa Cruz County Main Jail, she had to improvise. She developed a college art program for the inmates using torn paper. Inmates would create images out of the paper, and Anand says that art classes have been particularly relaxing for her students while also fostering better communication between correctional officers and inmates. A selection of art and poetry by inmates in the Santa Cruz County Main Jail is on display at the Resource Center for Nonviolence until the end of this month only.

INFO: Show runs through Jan. 24. Resource Center for Nonviolence, 612 Ocean St., Santa Cruz. 423-1626. rcnv.org. Free.

Sunday 12/16

Breakfast with Santa Claus

Santa always goes above and beyond during the most wonderful time of the year. This season, Santa and his elves will be serving pancakes, eggs, sausage, fruit and beverages, accompanied by youth singers and dancers. There will be free kids’ holiday games and build-a-gift activities, plus a raffle with local prizes and photographs with Santa. All proceeds support recreation activities for Watsonville youth. Those in need of financial support to attend the event can email in**@*****************es.org.

INFO: 8 a.m.-noon. Watsonville Senior Center, 114 E. Fifth St., Watsonville. $6 adults, $5 children.

Sunday 12/16

Kuumbwa Journey of 1,000 Lights

The Kuumbwa Jazz Center’s annual benefit concert combines music of different styles and ethnicities that speak to the immigrant experience from which democracy evolved. Featuring local musicians like Keshav Batish and Laurie Tanenbaum, this annual benefit supports Chadeish Yameinu Jewish Renewal Community of Santa Cruz.

INFO: 3-5:30 p.m. Kuumbwa Jazz Center, 320 Cedar St., Santa Cruz. 427-2227, kuumbwajazz.org. $20-$35.

Saturday 12/15

Pine Needle Basket Making Workshop

Join docent Cheryl VanDeVeer in learning how to make a woven basket from local ponderosa pine needles. No experience is necessary, though all of you expert pine needle basket weavers are welcome to join. Children 10 and older may attend if accompanied by an adult.

INFO: 10 a.m.-noon. Henry Cowell Redwood State Park. 101 N Big Trees Park Road, Felton. 335-4598. Free.

THU 12/13- SAT 12/15

‘THE CURIOUS SAVAGE’

Scotts Valley High School presents a new production of The Curious Savage, a play by John Patrick about an elderly woman named Mrs. Savage whose husband has left her $10 million. But a fight over the fortune—and the schemes of her stepchildren—bring an unexpected turn to Mrs. Savage’s life, and a surprising new outlook on family.

7 p.m., Scotts Valley High School, 555 Glenwood Dr., Scotts Valley. $10, $8 students. Tix4u.com.

The Problem With Redefining ‘Healthy’ Food

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A little over two years ago, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced its intention to redefine the word “healthy,” and exactly which foods can be labeled as such.

Especially shocking in the ever-changing world of nutrition, the FDA’s current regulatory definition of the term has not been updated since it was first established in 1993. For perspective, this is the same year that Bill Clinton started his first term as U.S. president, cell phones and the internet were both in their technological infancy, Michael Jackson was crushing the Super Bowl halftime show, and this article’s author was 10 years old. In other words, a long time ago.

Back then, the low-fat diet craze was in full swing, and the prevailing nutrition ideology was basically to scapegoat and paint the fat molecule with too broad a brush. Sugar-laden, yet low-fat foods like sweetened cereals, SpaghettiOs and fat-free puddings could be labeled as “healthy,” but not foods like avocados, nuts and salmon. As nutrition recommendations can be prone to do, this antiquated notion in recent years has become essentially obsolete and done a 180-degree about-face. Nutrition professionals now recognize and make an important distinction between “good fats” and “bad fats” and also focus on the importance of limiting sugar in the diet.

Two years into the process of revamping their archaic “healthy” designation, the FDA continues to struggle to even propose a new definition, let alone decide on one and turn it into law. They have received over 1,000 letters from health professionals, industry advocates and others. In the meantime, companies that sell things like bottled water, sugar-free gum and “mini-meals” want to be able to label their products as healthy. The longer the process continues, the more it feels like the FDA is headed farther down the rabbit hole.

But stepping back and taking a more macro view, many nutrition professionals think that it is inherently misleading and overly reductive to label any one food as “healthy.” Jocelyn Dubin, a registered dietitian and co-founder of Nourish Wellness Center in Santa Cruz, says that the term “healthy” is more accurately used when describing a whole diet. It’s also a concept based on each individual’s unique situation; what is healthy for one person may not be for another.

“The FDA’s impetus to try and create a definition of ‘healthy’ is flawed,” says Dubin, adding that it’s very arbitrary to single out certain ingredients and nutrient levels. “Healthy foods are foods that help that body to flourish and reduce the risk of chronic disease and illness,” she says. “Is it full of things that promote life?” She says examples of foods that do this are produce, seeds, nuts, and unprocessed plant oils, the latter three of which would not be considered “healthy,” according to the FDA’s outdated definition.

The controversial and often-complicated nature of the debate over the redefinition shows just how challenging it is to say without equivocation what exactly “healthy” means nowadays. Not only are there multiple popular diets out there based around specific foods and ingredients—paleo, keto, gluten-free, vegan—but what about artificial ingredients, genetically modified food and organic food? Should these all be factored in to the new definition?

“No,” says Dubin. “There is so much nutrition noise out there already; we don’t want to create further confusion.” Dubin emphasizes the individual, and how important it is consider the whole diet in context. She does say that in general, when considering a single food’s health status, to look for two simple attributes: a small ingredient list, and a quick expiration date. If a food meets both of those criteria, then it is probably “healthy”—whatever that means.

Melinda’s Not Your Girlfriend: Lessons From a Gluten-Free Bakery

Most days, Melinda Harrower begins baking at Melinda’s Gluten Free Bakery at 4 a.m.

She’s gotten used to the schedule, and has grown to like it. She returns home for the day around the time her teenage kids get back from school. “I might need a nap, but I’m good to go,” she says. Harrower, who has celiac disease, has seen a range of gluten sensitivities over the years—stretching from the rare and extreme cases of people who get anaphylaxis when there’s flour in the air to others who simply feel bloated after eating too much bread.

She wants even the most sensitive customers to be safe in her 41st Avenue shop. I talked to Harrower at her bakery, which is around the corner from the Capitola branch of the Department of Motor Vehicles, as jazz music played quietly in the background.

I see ‘GF’ a lot as an abbreviation for ‘gluten-free.’ Do you remember, like, 15 years ago, when ‘GF’ was an abbreviation for ‘girlfriend?’

MELINDA HARROWER: [Laughs] When I first started my website, I got the weirdest people knocking on my door, messaging me. I was like, “No, no, no! I’m not trying to be your girlfriend.” It was so uncomfortable. No, Melinda’s not your girlfriend. Melinda’s is gluten-free.

Do people ever come in here after waiting in line at the nearby DMV for six hours, and how famished do they look when they arrive?

I had to sit in the line once, and I had my staff bring doughnuts over. We get a lot of people who just got their license. It’s really cute. But yeah, they’re pretty famished. And angry! So we try to make their life a little easier.

‘Croissant’ is one of those words that, whenever I say it, I either feel like a simple-minded American or a worldly snob. How do you say it?

“Craw-saunt.” I say it like an American. It’s funny because we use Amazon Alexa as our timer, and she says “crwuh-sahn.” We started calling them “crescent rolls” just to get her to stop saying “crwuh-sahn.” It’s funny, we actually got a negative Yelp review, because we kept “yelling at this poor girl in the back—‘Alexa, stop!’” [Music stops playing suddenly during our interview.] Oh, she heard me. Oopsies …

melindasbakery.com, 316-5081.

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