Working Together on County’s Water Shortage

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Local agencies have managed Santa Cruz County’s groundwater basins for decades, but now with the stakes higher than ever, new coalitions are forming.
The Santa Cruz Mid-County groundwater basin, the sole water source for more than 42,000 residents between Soquel and La Selva Beach, is in dire straits. Since the 1980s, customers have drawn from wells faster than the rains can replenish them. Now that its water levels are below sea level, seawater has started to seep inland, contaminating the wells.
In January, the Mid-County basin, which also supplies 5 percent of the city of Santa Cruz’s water, was listed as “critically overdrafted” by the state’s Department of Water Resources. The nearby Pajaro Valley basin also received that listing. It’s the worst classification level, given to just 21 basins in California.
A new state law, the Sustainable Groundwater Management Act, took effect last year, requiring the formation of new local agencies and plans to manage troubled basins. Deadlines must be met—agencies must be formed by June 2017 and plans by 2022—or else the state will intervene. Critically overdrafted basins such as Mid-County’s are on a shorter timeline—they must have a plan by 2020.
Each plan must create a strategy for monitoring and fixing its local overdraft issues. Each region has its own complexities, ranging from seawater intrusion along the Central Coast, to contaminated water or sinkholes.
This new state model of local accountability makes sense, says Ron Duncan, general manager of the Soquel Creek Water District.
“Water is a very regional thing. There’s regional issues and regional solutions, so it doesn’t work for the state to mandate an x, y or z solution because it may not make sense,” Duncan says.
For the first time in California, responsible management of groundwater by local agencies is being mandated, not just encouraged. Within 20 years of adopting a plan, every agency must achieve groundwater sustainability, according to law.
A public hearing will be held at 7 p.m. on Thursday, May 19, at Simpkins Family Swim Center in Live Oak to designate a new local group, called the Santa Cruz Mid-County Groundwater Agency, to manage the mid-county basin. Public comment will be heard and incorporated, before the intent is filed with the state, says Bruce Jaffe, the agency’s head and also a longtime member of Soquel Creek Water District’s board.
The Santa Cruz Mid-County Groundwater Agency has 10 other members, including Tom LaHue, also a Soquel Creek Water District board member, two Santa Cruz city councilmembers, two Santa Cruz County supervisors, two Central Water District board members and two private well owners, who also rely on the basin for their water supply.  
Alliances between the city of Santa Cruz, the county and other users are key, says Jaffe, who for the past decade was part of the Santa Cruz Mid-County Groundwater Agency’s predecessor, the Soquel Aptos Groundwater Management Committee, formerly called the Basin Implementation Group.
“When you have the county, the city and two groundwater agencies and private pumpers, you don’t always see eye-to-eye on every issue, but all the members have talked things out and we’ve come to a resolution on every issue we’ve encountered so far,” Jaffe says.
The agency will soon hire a staff made up of local water administrators like Duncan to support its executive staff members. Duncan was also involved with the agency’s predecessor, and says the formation of this new version feels more urgent. State water officials, he believes, are more serious now.
“We’ve neglected the groundwater situation statewide for so long, and now they really want [local] agencies, committees to be serious,” he says.
The state has already approved the Pajaro Valley Water Management Agency, which serves agricultural customers and Watsonville-area residents, as the local agency managing the Pajaro Valley basin.
In Santa Cruz County, previous groundwater agencies have already made headway with solving the problem of overdraft. Since the 1990s, more than 80 “sentry wells” have been laid along the coast to monitor for seawater intrusion. Water districts also moved well drilling inland, to prevent contamination.
Local districts have also become more aware of conservation. For example, Soquel Creek customers have cut their use by half since 2003, and now the district has one of the lowest rates of use per capita in the state.
When the state groundwater law was passed in 2014, local organizers began to hold public meetings to discuss how the new agency would be formed. Around 20 meetings have been held so far, and several attracted more than 60 attendees. Every private well owner in the region was invited, and many of the large commercial customers came, such as Cabrillo College and Seascape Golf Club. Updates are also posted on the groundwater agency’s website, midcountygroundwater.org.
Duncan says agency members are focusing all their energy on the formation process, and talk of a plan to solve the overdraft problem has not begun. If the agency is formed correctly, then solutions will unfold naturally, he says.
Duncan says having a precedent for collaboration puts Santa Cruz County ahead of the curve with local groundwater agency formation.
“We’ve been developing those relationships and trust, and that’s huge because we’ve got to balance the basin,” he says. “At the end of the day, it’s about who’s doing what, and how much you’ve got to contribute to balance the basin.”
The agency has a $1.3 million budget for the 2016-17 fiscal year, $140,000 of that from grants and the rest contributed by the individual agencies. Soquel Creek Water District, the basin’s largest user, contributed around $800,000 from its general fund and the Central Water District, city of Santa Cruz and county of Santa Cruz each contributed $115,250.
Steven Springhorn, a California Department of Water Resources geologist helping with implementation of state groundwater law, says that the Santa Cruz Mid-County Groundwater Agency is a good example of how local groups can work together. Elsewhere, overlapping boundaries between jurisdictions complicates the formation of groundwater sustainability agencies [GSAs], he says, but that’s not the case in Santa Cruz County.
“Statewide, there still remains a lot of coordination [to be done],” Springhorn says. “It’s kind of taking two different approaches—the Santa Cruz approach, where they’re choosing to meet, coordinate and resolve some of the details first, and then form their GSA and get it posted online. Others came at it from a more individual, single-agency perspective.”
 

Santa Cruz Runners Outpace Competition

I generally run one half-marathon a year, and like a lot of casual runners, I tend to pick my races based on the locale. That’s not to say I pick the most challenging courses—in fact, quite the opposite.
When I see one of those race websites whose organizers try to draw in adrenaline junkies with promises that their course is the most challenging thing I will ever face, is comprised entirely of active volcanoes, is somehow 100 percent uphill or is otherwise designed to basically kill all participants, I smash the buttons on my keyboard furiously until it goes away.
What it actually means is that if I’m going to run 13.1 miles—or even maybe 26.2 someday, God forbid—I want to take in some majestic scenery while I do it. The rolling hills of Sonoma wine country, the Avenue of the Giants, something like that.
But in 2012, I ran the Capitola Half Marathon, which is held in conjunction with the Surfer’s Path Marathon, and will celebrate its 5th anniversary when the two races once again bring runners from all over to Santa Cruz this weekend.
It turned out that for all my seeking of exotic spots, there is nothing like running a race in the place I’ve lived and worked for most of my adult life. Over the length of the course—which begins in front of the Boardwalk, winds through East Cliff, turns around in Capitola Village and then finds its way back to the beach just beyond its starting point—I passed three different places where I’ve lived over the years. I made my way along streets usually so heavy with traffic I’d never even imagined running down the middle of them, suddenly surrounded by nothing but chilly coastal air and the quiet footfalls of other runners. It’s still my favorite half I ever did, and it solidified Santa Cruz as my favorite place to run a race.
I’m certainly not the only one who feels that way about running in Santa Cruz. In fact, this area has a strong, tight-knit running community that a lot of locals don’t know about, and one of the people at the center of it is Greg Brock. At 68, Brock doesn’t run a whole lot anymore—he claims his legs expired at 100,000 miles a few years ago—but his passion for the local running landscape is as strong as ever—in fact, it kind of haunts him.
“I used to do a lot of running up and down West Cliff,” says Brock. “I love that stretch. Once in a while I’ll head over and drive it really slow. It’s like visiting an old friend.”
He doesn’t have a lot of time to ruminate, though, since Brock is busy training the next generation of local runners—with a remarkable amount of success. Brock coached at Santa Cruz High School from 1974-1981, then at Cabrillo College for 16 years, then started coaching at Santa Cruz High again in 2006. Last year, Santa Cruz High’s Varsity Girls Cross Country team took second place in Division IV competition at the state championships. Senior Cate Ratliff finished first, running the 3.1 mile course in 17 minutes, 3.7 seconds, and another Santa Cruz High Cardinal, Mari Friedman, came in fourth. Ratliff’s time was not only the fastest in division history, but also faster than any other Varsity Girls runner across all five of the divisions in competition.
“That was a huge achievement,” says Brock.
And Santa Cruz High isn’t alone. Brock says the stellar coaching at other area high schools like San Lorenzo Valley High, Aptos High and Watsonville’s St. Francis High have turned the Santa Cruz area into a hotspot of what he calls “power programs” in California.
“Over the years we have become a very strong league,” he says.
Or as Kathleen Ferraro puts it: “We breed good runners here. In high schools, we have some of the most impressive runners in the state.”
Ferraro is probably best known locally for organizing the BANFF Mountain Film Festival World Tour and Radical Reels events. But she also has a formidable history with the running community in Santa Cruz County, bringing the Running Club back to UCSC in 1995, after which it evolved into an NCAA team; starting and coaching the DeLaveaga Running Club in 2001; and coaching middle-school cross-country and track. She points out that Ratliff comes from a family that’s known in this area for producing excellent runners.
“You go, ‘Damn, who’s that kid? Oh, it’s a Ratliff. Okay,’” says Ferraro.
Brock has been keeping tabs on NCAA competition over the last week, and is stunned at how many local runners—including athletes who ran in his program—have made the cut.
“I don’t think we’ve ever had as many as we do right now,” he says. “There’s really a lot of our girls competing at the college level, and some boys, as well.”
KEEPING TRACK
Brock and Ferraro have both been involved for two decades with what is pretty much the hub of running culture locally, the Santa Cruz Track Club.
“The Santa Cruz Track Club is the most influential group in running in this community,” says Ferraro. “It’s the linchpin.”
Her connection to the group is extremely personal, as it was responsible for her even taking up running in the first place.
“My dad made us run when we were in middle school, and I hated it,” she says. “When my son was born, that’s when I became a runner. I went from pushing him in a baby jogger to running the Big Sur Marathon when he was two years old. And that was because of the Santa Cruz Track Club. They were the people who made me realize I could do this.”
Diane Delucchi has been vice-president of the Track Club for what she estimates is about “50 million years.” She’s tried to provide continuity for each new board member—“I feel like I’m the historian,” she says. For her, and many other members, the Track Club is a lot more than its name implies.
“A lot of people are intimidated because it’s called the Track Club,” she admits. “But we do more than track. With our running groups, we have all ages. It goes from the beginner to the experienced runner.”
Even more importantly, “it’s not just a running club. It’s like a family,” she says. “You get all this support from everybody out there.”
The club leads runs not just at the places that all local runners know, like Wilder Ranch or Big Basin or the Pogonip or Nisene Marks, but also at, say, Waddell Creek, or Land of the Medicine Buddha Retreat Center.
“You can’t beat the terrain here,” says Delucchi.
She remembers originally setting her goal as a 10K, running that, and never looking back.
“Because there was always someone else out there to train with. You’re evolving with other runners,” she says. “All of a sudden, you’re running an Ironman. The neatest thing is that no matter what you decide to run, you’re able to find someone.”
And when she says all ages, she’s not kidding. Track Club member and former Santa Cruz mayor Katherine Beiers is now 82 and routinely finishes in the top two places in her division at the Boston Marathon, which was held last month. For the past two years, Beiers has been the oldest finisher in the race.
But at the other end of the spectrum, the pride of the Santa Cruz Track Club may be their Youth Club, which boasts more than 150 young runners. Along with his role as the running coach at Santa Cruz High, Brock is also the Track Club’s running coach, and he’s seen a definite connection between the two.
“We’ve had girls who come out to run at Santa Cruz High, and they’re wearing the t-shirts they got at the Youth Club,” he says.
Certainly great coaching in local schools is a central reason why Santa Cruz has produced so many great runners—from world-class triathlete Terri Schneider, who graduated from Santa Cruz High in the 1970s and has completed more than 20 Ironman races, through Victor Plata, who graduated Santa Cruz High in the ’90s and went on to be a two-time Olympic triathlete, to today. As schools continue to cut after-school programs, however, the opportunities the Track Club provides are clearly more important than ever.
But the most interesting thing is that neither the schools nor the Youth Club seems to be fishing for elite athletes; instead, the supportive local culture around running just seems to raise up youth athletes. In particular, Brock doesn’t like the statistics nationwide on the number of teens who drop out of sports in high school because those sports become too competitive, too expensive, or generally so elitist that it makes kids feel like they shouldn’t get involved.
“What we try to do is bring them back into it just for the fitness and movement value. They don’t have to be great athletes,” he says. “Then every once in a while, you’ll see a jewel come out of it.”
DAY AT THE RACES
Tom Bradley, creator and owner of this week’s Surfer’s Path Marathon/Capitola Half Marathon, says he is struck by how interconnected the running community is here, whether it’s the Track Club, stores like Fleet Feet and Running Revolution, or the running crowd buzzing at Aptos Coffee Roasting Company.
“Everything here is community-based,” he says. “You’re always running into people you know.”
In addition to this fifth running of the marathon and half-marathon on Saturday, May 21, Bradley has twice held a Surfer’s Path 10K/5K, which will return Feb. 6 of next year. And this fall, on Oct. 23, he’ll debut the Surfer’s Path Hang Ten/Hang Five, 10 and 5 mile races, respectively.
Putting on this weekend’s races means managing around 300 people on race day, including 100 just to monitor the course.
“What we do, a lot of it is behind the scenes. I’m not sure people realize what goes into it, but that’s the same with anything,” he says. “We’re all pretty stoked that it comes off.”
After years in the event business, in which he produced a lot of races, Bradley had sold his company and gotten out of the business for a while. But living in this area inspired him to get back into it.
“Working here is kind of like running here,” he says. “I’m able to wake up and go down to East Cliff or Wilder Ranch or Capitola Village—it’s just a lot more appealing. It kind of changes the feel of doing business.”
That even includes clean up.
“I get up the morning after the marathon and ride the entire route and make sure every piece of trash is picked up,” he says “But I get to do that on this route.”

Santa Cruz’s Queen of Jazzercise Celebrates 30 Years

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Not many Marine Corps drill sergeants would be able to match Abbi Hartsell’s pace. For 30 years the petite buff blonde has managed to get out of bed at zero dark thirty, strap on her tights and lead dozens of determined Jazzercisers in rockin’ dance routines. Up until this year, when she cut back to only five days and 11 classes a week, Hartsell has taught 17 classes a week.
“You have no idea what a difference it made, just to have a real two-day weekend,” Hartsell says with a grin. I can definitely imagine it. Having been put through my paces regularly by Hartsell for several decades, I can also testify to her uncanny ability to get the best out of us using Jazzercise’s choreographed combination of aerobics and dance, while making it extremely fun in the process.
Hartsell—who face to face over coffee looks ridiculously young for someone with her long professional resumé—admits that she enjoys spending more and more time visiting her sister and family in Hawaii, where she says she will eventually retire. A Santa Cruz native, Hartsell and her mom live near each other. “She may have to think about moving to Hawaii, too,” Hartsell jokes.
Yes, she’s been at it for 30 years, a milestone that was acknowledged at this year’s annual Jazzercise convention in Las Vegas. “It began with Kay Mitchell—she brought Jazzercise [to Santa Cruz County],” Hartsell recalls. “I wasn’t into sports growing up, didn’t do any exercise activities,” she says. “We were horse girls in my family. Until I discovered boys.”
The first Jazzercise class she ever attended was in Live Oak. “I went to a class and I immediately fell in love with it. I was captivated,” she says.
What does Hartsell love about Jazzercise? “It makes people feel successful,” she answers instantly. “It’s challenging yet doable.” Hartsell managed Josef’s Deli at the Rancho del Mar shopping center, then ran weddings and events at the Pogonip Club while working her way up the franchise ladder. “Soon I became a manager at Jazzercise,” Hartsell says. “I knew I wanted to teach.” Then came the move to being an owner. Hartsell explains that Jazzercise, a national organization started 45 years ago by JudI Sheppard Missett with regional franchises, has territories. “We start out by renting facilities. I am on this border where I make money because my costs are low. I would love to own a center, my own free-standing facility like a lot of people have in less expensive areas of the country. But the roller rink is security for me,” she says. Hartsell also owns the Aptos territory. “I teach a few days a week at the Aptos Grange, which has been newly remodeled,” she says. “That’s a wonderful thing.”
“People ask me what are you going to do when your body gives out? And I’ve definitely felt a shift, physically, in the past two years,” she says, rolling her eyes. “Part of me says no, it’s not going to happen to me. But I can feel that I have less energy,” she admits. As a cushion, she’s groomed associate instructors. “I’m embracing my team. I let the younger people teach the butt-kicker programs these days,” she chuckles. “Another change I’ve made is a modified program I teach called Jazzercise Light, geared toward seniors and newcomers.” Even the founder, Judy Missett is now phasing herself into less involvement, says Hartsell.
But Missett, who has ceded oversight to her daughter, continues to keep the brand current, Hartsell contends: “It’s not your mom’s Jazzercise program.”
“In my 30 years, I have learned over 4,500 routines,” she says. How does she keep fresh with it, year after year? “I go to the area meetings. And there’s an instructor’s conference in Las Vegas. That’s a shot in the arm, being in a room filled with all these passionate women, all involved in a program that empowers women,” she says. As an owner of her Jazzercise territory, Hartsell admits the work never stops. “There’s always something you can be doing to promote the business.” She admits she often fantasizes about a cut-and-dried “nine-to-five job where I can just go home at the end of the day and forget about work.”
But “the crowd in front of me inspires me. I just love seeing them connect with the routines and enjoy their own success. It reinforces how wonderful Jazzercise is,” she says. The choreography and the music get her up and going each day. “Yes, I guess I’m tough. I teach that 6 a.m. class,” she groans and laughs. “And I still feel sorry for myself.” But no matter how tired or burned out, “you’re still the brand,” she says.
Check the Jazzercise Santa Cruz and Aptos Facebook page for class schedule and information.

Preview: King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard comes to Moe

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Imagine an album that never ends. Whether this sounds like a nightmare or a really cool idea may depend on how insane a person’s musical tastes are. And chances are, anyone that digs the band name King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard is on board with the infinite-loop-record concept on principle alone.
Fortunately for whacked-out psych music fans, Australian seven-piece King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard did in fact release a never-ending album, appropriately titled Nonagon Infinity. All the songs are connected seamlessly, and the last track goes right back into the first track again with no break. The fact that it’s their hardest and heaviest record only adds to the intensity of the record. It never breathes.
“We wanted to drop into the deep end with this one,” says frontman Stu Mackenzie. “The idea was to create one big song. We even toyed with the idea of just calling it one song, but I’m OK if people want to digest the songs individually as well.”
The Australian psychedelic band has explored a lot of territory on their previous seven albums. There’s elements of flowery summer-of-love psychedelic tunes, bits of jazz, prog-rock, psych-pop, and spaced out jams. On Nonagon Infinity, the group mixes high-octane psych-garage rock with elements of ’70s metal and glam-rock.
Probably a more important element than the songs simply being linked is that they are all carefully sonically referential. There are several repeating phrases—a minor refrain in one song might return in another song as a primary riff. It’s actually a very complex interweaving record that was so challenging to make that the group worked on it for years, even taking breaks to focus their attention on other material. They released two albums while slowly chipping away at Nonagon Infinity.
“I didn’t want to put the record together in editing or post or anything. I wanted to feel like we could play it from start to finish in one go if we wanted to,” Mackenzie says. “Talking about making this record makes me slightly anxious. It was definitely difficult, bordering on painful. It wasn’t fun, but it was our most ambitious.”  
There are a whole bunch of bands that wave the psychedelic label, but it’s extremists like King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard that truly fit the label. Not only do they bring weird concepts to their records, they also put together strange accompanying visuals. (Check out their oddball videos.) It’s not just they’re influenced by the late ’60s psychedelic music scene, they actually embody the experimental spirit of the time period.
“I don’t try to pretend like we’re breaking any new ground or anything. What we’re doing is challenging ourselves with the music. The spirit is to explore, even if we just experiment with something that we’ve never done before,” Mackenzie says.
At this point in King Gizzard’s career, they tend to work on albums from a concept-based approach first, and see where that takes them. For Nonagon Infinity, the initial spark was to create their heaviest record to date, which led to linking all the songs, and then the next logical step was to link the last to the first.
The fact that this record took them a couple years is particularly fascinating because King Gizzard has released eight records in only six short years. As they’ve evolved as a band, the urge to create concept records has only increased.
“I always liked records that feel like a whole, and feel like a journey into some place and then maybe a journey out. It’s been a catalyst to being creative, I suppose,” Mackenzie says.
One could spend weeks listening to the intricate self-referential musical themes going in and out of the nine songs on Nonagon Infinity, but the lyrics are connected, too. Each song has its own narrative, and they are connected by all taking place in the same surreal sci-fi world.
“It’s supposed to be some sort of dark sci-fi fantasy, kind of horror thing,” Mackenzie says. “It’s definitely supposed to be throwing you into a world. There’s some autobiographical moments in there too, but it’s not me, it’s a monster or cyborg version.”  
INFO: 8 p.m., Tuesday, May 24, Moe’s Alley, 1535 Commercial Way, Santa Cruz. $15. 479-1854.

Staff of Life Turns 47

Can it be true? Was it really 47 years ago that courageous natural food entrepreneurs Richard Josephson and Gary Bascou opened up their “alternative” home of bulk whole foods, organic produce, a natural food deli, and outstanding baked goods?
Yes it was, and now the mightily expanded Staff of Life Natural Foods Market—located at 1266 Soquel Ave. since 2011—is celebrating this latest milestone with an afternoon gala from 12:30-4:30 p.m. on Sunday, May 22. Expect lots of neighborhood fun, live music, food, tastings, demos, and of course, good vibes. Congratulations to Staff of Life! I will always covet those incomparable sunflower seed cookies.
 
A Tale of Two Glutens
As many of us are happily discovering, there is such a thing as gluten-free glamour—for example, the walnut carrot tea cake from Manresa Bread, available locally at Verve. Or, the mighty almond apricot biscotto from Companion Bakeshop.
And then there’s gluten-free glop. Always willing to do the arduous field work needed to stay ahead of the fickle waves of food production, I found my hand reaching out for a box of Bakery on Main™ instant gluten-free oatmeal, which contained (in addition to a variety of intriguing grains) gluten-free oats. Why not? I thought. After enough almond milk, salt, and demerara sugar was added, how bad could it be? Well, dear reader, it was—to be diplomatic—not good. I’ve sampled papier mâché paste with more pizzazz. With the texture of raw dough and the flavor of wet paper, this stuff was inedible. Even with the accompanying sex appeal of chia, flax, amaranth, and quinoa to bolster the sagging performance of gluten-free oats, it was almost comically bad. Goodbye to $4. It seems that the mystical chemical formula owned by gluten is also the very thing that lends structure, toothiness, texture, and perhaps even flavor to the creations in which it turns up. It’s possible that somewhere there’s a gluten-free oatmeal product with something resembling flavor and texture that won’t produce a gag response. But it’s not made in Glastonbury, Connecticut. I’ve suspended my research until further notice, having learned it’s the instant oats that are the problem. Avoid those!
 
Culinary Changes
Fans of Aptos’ spicy Ambrosia India Bistro are already poised for a new destination. A second installment of Ambrosia is scheduled to open up in Scotts Valley in a few months. Stay tuned. Meanwhile, the wait is finally over! Lillian’s Italian Kitchen (the house of Joe and Charlotte Moreno) has begun taking reservations for dinner at its all-new, spacious digs at the corner of Seabright and Soquel. The vivacious new 80-seat dining room will be open by the time you read this. Now you can exhale and tuck into some serious meatballs and gravy. See you there! lilliansitaliankitchen.com.
Don’t forget the Flower Festival and Feast (Jozseph Schultz!) happening at a Bonny Doon garden estate from 1-5 p.m. on Sunday, May 22. Go to COBHA.org/news for tickets.
And good bye to Austin Kaye and the Back Porch, a delicious and hard-working fixture of our community, moving to San Diego in June. Last Farmers Market appearance for Back Porch will be Saturday, May 28. Stop by, order something mouth-watering and wish the Kayes the best.
 
Late-Breaking Deli
Restaurateur Paul Cocking called to let me know that he has the green light to purchase the old Sentinel Printers building and launch a deli next door to his Gabriella Cafe. “Along the lines of Gayle’s,” Cocking added, “but with less emphasis on pastries.” Cocking envisions outdoor seating as well as an in-house U-shaped wine and food bar. Major funding is already in place, but Cocking is looking for a few more investors to make this project fly. Maybe you? Invest in downtown culinary history. Contact Paul at 831-457-1677.
 

Food & Drink 2016

Screen-shot-2016-06-20-at-11.53.07-AMThe big question for foodies used to be “Where do you want to eat?” These days, though, it’s just as likely to be “Where do you want to drink?”
In this issue of Food & Drink, we give Santa Cruz’s spirited spirits scene its due. First, Christina Waters looks at how the mixology movement has made its way to Santa Cruz, and where to find it. She also confirms that it’s now okay to admit you drink ciders and sours, so allow me to finally say: I don’t care who thinks I am the world’s wussiest drinker, I will take a blueberry sour at Mission Street BBQ every day of the week and twice on Sundays. Wow, that felt good. Good talk! OK, anyway, if you worry that happy hour is bringing down the dining scene, I recommend reading Lily Stoicheff‘s interview with the Kitchen at Discretion’s Santos Majano about his one-man pub food revolution. And don’t miss her article on the local pop-up culture, which goes beyond the typical “hey, pop-ups exist!” angle to explain why Santa Cruz is an ideal place for them to thrive. Dig in!
STEVE PALOPOLI, EDITOR
Click to view a PDF of the Food & Drink Magazine

Stories

Brewing a Menu: Chef Santos Majano on Fusing Craft Beer with a Farm-to-Table Philosophy
Five O’Clock Somewhere: Santa Cruz Perfects the Art of the Innovative Cocktail
Pop Culture: Why the Pop-Ups are Flourishing in Santa Cruz
Pro Choice: Probiotic Drinks from Santa Cruz’s Farmhouse Culture
The Road Less Stumbled: Leave the Driving To Others on New Wine Tour
Foodie Finds: A Calendar of Santa Cruz County Food and Drink Events
 

Dining Event Calendar 2016

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2nd Friday of the Month: Artisan Food Market at Food Lounge

The Santa Cruz Food Lounge has been a major hub for Santa Cruz’s emerging pop-up food culture. Every second Friday of the month, the Food Lounge comes alive with the Artisan Food Market. Pop in for a signature cocktail, wine, beer or cider after work, buy some artisan gifts for the foodies in your life, and have some dinner or take it to go. The Artisan Food Market also includes live music and locally made jewelry and crafts.
Info: 4-8 p.m. Second Friday of the month. Santa Cruz Food Lounge, 1001 Center St., Suite One, Santa Cruz.
 

May 28: Westside Market Pop-Up Breakfast

Pan-griddled walnut-vanilla bean French toast. Grilled wild salmon filet brioche with farm egg and greens. Drooling yet? Grab your own plate and silverware, that’s only the first few items off this year’s Pop-Up Breakfast menu on May 28. Four monthly breakfast events at the Westside and Scotts Valley markets where local chefs fuse sensational medleys of simple cuisine with seasonal ingredients from farms represented at the market. Each breakfast connects locals to farmers, chefs to landscapes, and healthy stomachs to happy hearts.
Info: 9:30 a.m., Saturday, May 28. Westside Farmers Market, Western Drive and Mission Street, Santa Cruz. santacruzfarmersmarket.org. 831-325-4294. $37.
 

June 8: FoodShed Project Farmers Markets Pop-Ups

If all schools combined learning with food incentives, we might have a whole new generation of engaged students, albeit well-rounded ones (healthy incentives only, of course!). The FoodShed Project is doing it all with its community education and outreach programs at Santa Cruz farmers markets. Free and family friendly, they host events at the downtown farmers markets on the second Wednesday of each month between June and September. This year’s menu kicks off with “Pie in the Sky” on June 8 with a focus on local strawberry history and “Cowabunga!” on July 13, with a “you make-it and taste-it” meat demo.
Info: 3 p.m., Wednesday, June 8, Downtown Farmers Market, Center and Lincoln streets, Santa Cruz. santacruzfarmersmarket.org/campaigns/the-food-shed-project. Free.
 

June 25: 7th Annual Hop N’ Barley Festival

Local craft beer and cider production is booming, and the 7th annual Hop N’ Barley Festival is a joyous two-day celebration of the delicious homegrown libation. On Saturday, June 25, festival goers can choose from 60 local and regional breweries and 10 cider companies in an unlimited tasting from noon-4:30 p.m. Sunday, June 25 presents the Beer Masters Cup, in which amateur and professional home brewers compete for the Best in Show Beer. The festival also runneth over with live music on two stages, food, beer games, and a dog-friendly atmosphere.
Info: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, June 25. Skypark, 361 Kings Village Road, Scotts Valley. $5 for Non-tasters, otherwise $40. Children under 10 free. hopnbarley.org.
 

July 16: Wine Passport days

Here in Santa Cruz, we kind of have the best of everything. Not only has the local craft beer scene exploded, but our wines are nothing to whine about—taste for yourselves with the Wine Passport from the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association. On the third Saturdays of July, November, January, and April, tasters with a passport can steep in the local history of vintners and dive into more than 50 wineries throughout the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Info: Noon-5 p.m., Saturday, July 16. scmwa.com. $55.

Sept. 9-11: Santa Cruz Greek Festival

Didn’t get enough Greek goodness in May? Fear not, the Santa Cruz Greek Festival has got even more to dish out with music by the Spartan Band, authentic food, folk dancing and more. Eat, drink, shop, and dance till you drop with Santa Cruz’s best street festival that will get you saying opa!
Info: Friday-Sunday, Sept. 9-11, Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church, Santa Cruz. livelikeagreek.com. Free.

Sept. 10-11: 34th Annual Capitola Art & Wine Festival

Bask in the Capitola sunshine with eats, arts, and more than 20 wineries from the Santa Cruz mountains. For the little ones there’ll be juice tasting, craft projects and music with MusicalMe and Music Together. Full schedule available online.
Info: Saturday – Sunday, Sept. 10-11, Capitola Village, Capitola. capitolaartandwine.com. Free.
 

Sept. 14-18: Santa Cruz County Fair

Deep-fried everything. Need we say more?
Info: Sept. 14-18, Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 2601 E Lake Ave., Watsonville. santacruzcountyfair.com. $5-$10.
 

Sept. 10: Mole & Mariachi Festival

Just because it’s tucked up in the Santa Cruz Mission Adobe State Historic Park’s grounds, out of sight, don’t let the Mole & Mariachi Festival remain out of mind! In its swift ascent to a Santa Cruz summer staple, the festival is a battle among the best in local mole—and it’s stiff competition. Last year’s festival drew nearly 4,000 people and winners included My Mom’s Mole and Mama Marquita’s. A full-on party, the festival boasts a colorful celebration with dancing, music, and mojigangas (giant puppets) and is a benefit for the nonprofit Friends of Santa Cruz State Parks.
Info: 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 10, Santa Cruz Mission Adobe State Historic Park, 144 School St., Santa Cruz. Tasting kits $10.
 

Sept. 24: 12th Annual Gourmet Grazing on the Green

California cows are known to be happy—so why not join them on the green with some perfect midsummer grazing? Do so in style with a day of fine wine, gourmet grub from local restaurants and live music. Organized by the Santa Cruz Cancer Benefit Group, proceeds benefit local organizations that help individuals with cancer, including Jacob’s Heart Children’s Cancer Support Services and Hospice of Santa Cruz County.
Info: Saturday, Sept. 24, Aptos Village Park, 100 Aptos Creek Road, Aptos. sccbg.org/events.
 

33rd Annual Hospice Oktoberfest

Dust off the dirndls and lederhosen, Bavaria’s best export is back. The Friends of Hospice present their 33rd annual Oktoberfest with plates and plates of German-inspired grub, music, cash prizes, silent and live auctions and more. Check website for event details and upcoming date.
Info: Date TBA. Scotts Valley Community Center, 360 Kings Village Road, Scotts Valley. Hospicesantacruz.org. Free.
 

Oct. 22: 7th Annual Santa Cruz Boardwalk Chili Cook-Off

Revel in the tastiest of comfort foods with one of the most locally beloved Boardwalk events, the annual Chili Cook-Off. Who will win this year’s competition? You decide. Professional and amateur chefs provide the finest in Amateur Red, Amateur Vegetarian Red, Professional Red, and Professional Vegetarian Red. A portion of the proceeds go to the Walnut Avenue Women’s Center.
Info: Saturday, Oct. 22. Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz. beachboardwalk.com/chili. Tasting kit $9.
 

Nov. 10: 12th Annual ‘A Taste of Santa Cruz’

Ever wish you could just sample all of Santa Cruz’s best food options in one place instead of having to trek all over the county to figure it out? You can: what began as a fundraiser to raise funds for low-income first-time home buyers through the Housing Foundation’s Closing Cost Assistance Grant Program, the annual Taste of Santa Cruz event puts it all on the table.
Info: 5:30-9 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 10, Cocoanut Grove, Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, 400 Beach St., Santa Cruz. $40.

Drinks All Around

What better way for visitors and locals to experience our superb wineries than with a guided wine tour? Started by Seth Kinman in January, Mountains to the Bay Wine Tours takes guests on informative and upbeat trips in the Santa Cruz Mountains, exploring some of California’s breathtaking scenery along the way. Couples, groups and private parties can enjoy a relaxing time together without having to worry about driving after enjoying several flights of wine.
“I grew up here and started the company to bring real quality to the wine tours,” Kinman says. “I love taking people around and showing them the beauty of the area—just enjoying the day and the weather and having a good time.”
Kinman gained a wealth of experience doing wine tours for almost 10 years with another company before launching out on his own. “It’s been encouraging because I’m doing really well,” he says, adding that he expects the peak season, May through November, to be especially fruitful.
“Harvest is my favorite time to be out there,” Kinman says. “It’s a favorite time for everybody.”

For more information, visit mountainstothebay.com, or call 275-4445.

Gut Feeling

When Santa Cruz’s Kathryn Lukas started her sauerkraut company Farmhouse Culture, it was an instant success. Naturally probiotic and delicious, sauerkraut adds raw organic goodness and a burst of tangy flavor to all kinds of dishes, and Lukas found fermented favor with flavors like Classic Caraway and Horseradish Leek.
Now, Farmhouse Culture has come out with a line of probiotic drinks called Gut Shot—all made with cabbage. Organic, vegan and gluten-free, with no added sugar, Gut Shots come in flavors such as Kimchi, Garlic Dill Pickle, Smoked Jalapeño, and, my favorite, Ginger Beet.
While most people know about the health benefits of eating cabbage in the form of sauerkraut, drinking flavored cabbage water might sound a bit out there. But its salty goodness is surprisingly tasty, proponents say it aids digestion and boosts the immune system.
Farmhouse Culture’s sauerkraut and Gut Shot drinks can be found at most local farmers markets and food stores such as Staff of Life and New Leaf. Visit farmhouseculture.com for more info.

Pop Life: The Pop-Up Trend in Santa Cruz

When Tighe Melville and chef Zachary Mazi met in 2014, they set out to make the kind of food they felt was missing in Santa Cruz. LionFish SupperClub held regular pop-ups at the Food Lounge throughout 2015 and into 2016, featuring menus inspired by Asia, India, the Middle East and beyond, exploring these flavorful cuisines while making good use of “some of the best local ingredients in the world.”
“There’s a hunger here for more diverse foods, and it’s just not available,” says Mazi.
“What diners desire is shifting,” agrees Melville. “There are a lot of young foodies in Santa Cruz who grew up here and want more. I think pop-ups are addressing that demand. What’s cool, too, is a lot of businesses are embracing it. Midtown Cafe, the Food Lounge, MJA Winery, the breweries … They’re seeing there’s value in it.”
LionFish SupperClub recently added a “permanent pop-up” called Ulterior, a brick-and-mortar kitchen above Motiv, on Pacific Avenue, earlier this year. Mazi and Melville’s goal is to maintain the inherent playfulness of their food that is so well received by their fans in their new space.
“We feel like we have this blank canvas to paint a more conceptual restaurant,” says Mazi. “California cuisine is kind of played out and there’s a lot of restaurants doing the same thing, but slightly different. Variance draws people to pop-ups—‘What are they doing this week? Let’s check it out!’”
 

Up Swing

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STRIKING GOLD Chef Zachary Mazi of LionFish SupperClub graduated from pop-ups to a kitchen of his own, Ulterior at Motiv, where he’s pictured with a handful of locally harvested Miner’s lettuce. PHOTO BY KEANA PARKER

Pop-ups work much differently than a typical restaurant. The service is almost always to-go, lines tend to be long and menus brief. Arrive late and you run the risk of seeing a heavy chalk mark across your favorite item after they’ve run out. But customers keep coming back for more of these adventurous eats, and more entrepreneurs are using this low-investment format to test the market waters.
It was just a couple of years ago that local culinary entrepreneurs really began embracing the format. And rather than burning bright and then fading away, pop-ups have become a new norm. Locals seem eager to come out in droves for these gone-in-a-flash restaurants, whose service occurs over the course of a few intense hours on a single day, perhaps once a week or even more infrequently. Lines down the block have been typical in many spots, and yet no one really seems to mind.
Assembly restaurant partners Zachary Davis and Kendra Baker were inspired by the underground food movement in San Francisco when they decided to turn an adjacent street-facing storefront into POPUP, a reconfigurable space that hosts a variety of food events. They knew pop-ups were taking off in the Santa Cruz food scene, and wanted to create an opportunity for them to do something more public in a certified kitchen, while still maintaining a spontaneous vibe.
“Santa Cruz has a very creative entrepreneurial spirit, and it exists in the food world as well,” says Davis. “The issues we have around food trucks have pushed some of the people that might have gone in that direction into other lower-overhead ways of trying out their business. With a pop-up, they can experiment, learn, and test their product without the larger commitments of opening a restaurant.”
Throughout 2015, Manresa Bread, the bakery offshoot of the Michelin-starred Manresa restaurant in Los Gatos, supplemented their farmers market appearances over the hill with weekly pop-ups at POPUP. Co-owner and head baker Avery Ruzicka says that that development phase was crucial for her business.
“It ended up being a testing ground for products that would end up in our own retail space. We could showcase them in the pop-up and get customer feedback, and our own feedback,” says Ruzicka.
They chose to vend on Wednesdays in order to be a part of the downtown farmers market experience, albeit one street over. Says Ruzicka, “At a farmers market and at a pop-up, the line between producer and consumer is very thin. There is no line, you’re right there with that person. That’s really attractive.” Overall, she found the Santa Cruz community extremely receptive to this kind of research and development, frequently selling out of their artisan breads and inventive pastries.
“Santa Cruz has a very well-educated and adventurous, open community. People have the idea of life balance down, and it allows for moments of, ‘Hey, let’s try something new,’” she says. “Living in Santa Cruz turns something that could be mundane into a beautiful, wonderful moment. One way to enjoy the moment is to go out to dinner, try something new, take a little bit of a risk.”
 

Making It Pop

Customer outreach is crucial for any fledgling business, and the transient nature of pop-ups means chefs can bring their food to the customer. That’s a perfect system for Kickin Chicken friends Justin Williams and Danny Mendoza, who started frying chicken in their condo as a way to bring in some extra cash in 2014. Now, they use their popular feasts to introduce their product to potential new fans, who will hopefully get hooked and order their late-night delivery service, now prepared in a professional kitchen at the Food Lounge. So far, their methodology has worked. They’ve gone from being the self-described “drug lords of late-night chicken” to weekly pop-ups and catering to looking for a permanent location.
Mendoza and Williams feel that while the brevity of pop-ups is innate to the form, the characteristic spontaneity is largely an illusion. They definitely want people to show up. “Marketing is 90 percent of the work,” says Mendoza. “The instantaneous marketing where you send out a tweet or an Instagram post and say, ‘I’ll be here in an hour’ only works for food trucks. It doesn’t work for us,” adds Williams.
Consistency is also key. Pop-ups allow for more creativity than a chef might normally have in a brick-and-mortar restaurant, but if a customer falls in love with a dish, they’ll keep coming back for more.
“Getting a consistent menu has helped us out so much, because people know what to expect and what to order from you. We have people who have ordered every week for a year, more than a year, and sometimes they’ll order a new thing, but they’ll always get the chicken,” says Mendoza.
“Doing something unique is important, too,” says Williams. “I think it would be really hard to do, like, a barbecue pop-up or a burger pop-up, because that’s already readily available here. You have to do something different, and you have to do it really, really well.”
Zane Griffin, who manages POPUP, is always looking for movers in the backyard food scene to bring into the light.
“There’s this underground food culture wherever you go. We see and read about brick-and-mortar places, but there’s a lot of other stuff going on off the books that’s really cool too, and I’ve been talking to those people. I can’t really say who, because they don’t have their permitting together, but that’s who we’re trying to work with and help out.”
He believes that part of the appeal of this kind of dining harkens back to street food culture, which he doesn’t see in Santa Cruz, where you walk down the street and stop just because something smells good. He believes that as people continue to become more familiar with the format, more delicious things will come.
“The pop-up scene is in its infancy. It’s learning to walk. People are still getting used to the concept, both cooks and consumers, but there’s a lot of excitement and interest from the community, which is awesome,” says Griffin. “I think it’s important to have something fresh and surprising. It’s only going to get more exciting and busier as the food artisans of the community start to crawl out of the woodwork and make an impression.”

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Food & Drink 2016

The big question for foodies used to be "Where do you want to eat?" These days, though, it's just as likely to be "Where do you want to drink?" In this issue of Food & Drink, we give Santa Cruz's spirited spirits scene its due. First, Christina Waters looks at how the mixology movement has made its way to Santa Cruz,...

Dining Event Calendar 2016

A calendar of the most enticing local food events and festivals for 2016

Drinks All Around

Mountains to the Bay Wine Tours offers a new way to experience local vineyards

Gut Feeling

Santa Cruz’s Farmhouse Culture expands its fermented empire with Gut Shot probiotic drinks

Pop Life: The Pop-Up Trend in Santa Cruz

Kickin Chicken Pop-up
Instead of burning out, the pop-up trend has caught fire. Why does it work so well in Santa Cruz?
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