Alderwood Elevates New American

So urban-hip, yet very Santa Cruz, the new Alderwood is already more than the sum of its parts. I can’t remember the last time I went to a New American steakhouse and came away impressed by the bravura treatment of seasonal vegetables. And the dessert!

Outfitted in Beto-O’Rourke-style Western gear, the kinetic waitstaff are everywhere at once, joining a large team of mixologists and chefs who keep the high-energy operation moving. Surrounded by a gleaming bar, exhibition kitchen and booths that line the restaurant’s perimeter, the central seating area offers the attractive and comfortable appointments that distinguish this dinner house. Good-looking table settings—from tasteful glassware to sophisticated serving pieces—reinforce the guiding concept: food, drink and people are the main attractions.

The Alderwood cheeseburger, especially when joined by the signature onion rings, has already achieved epic status. The comprehensive oyster offerings deserve an article unto themselves.

But we were here for dinner, and we were rewarded by bold flavors and presentation. From our cozy booth (the term “cozy” requires some latitude, given the noise level) we could watch a long table of extended family members celebrating a birthday, real housewives of Aptos celebrating their cocktails, and a cross-section of entrepreneurs occupying the bar. Alderwood looks to be a great place for people-watching and business deals. Romantic trysts? Not so much.

Generous pours of Cantos de Valpiedra Tempranillo ($12) and an excellent Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir ($15)—both served at exactly the right, slightly cool temperature—started us off. Our food arrived in stages, which began, rather abruptly, with a plate of sliced, 8-ounce Heart of Ribeye ($38). Joined by a bowl of thick, green peppercorn sauce Bordelaise ($7), the aged midwestern beef proved delicious and juicy, if not life-changing.

Soon arrived the sides (these were my main dishes) of grilled asparagus ($15), beet tartare ($15) and remarkable potatoes glazed with parsley pesto, bits of bacon and mustard ($15). In a moment of culinary drama, I was next presented with a single grilled scallop ($15), nestled in the central thumbprint niche of a large rectangular plate. The scallop sat on a cushion of cauliflower puree, topped with balsamic and a ribbon of smoked hog jowl. Pretty damn spectacular and yes, worth its price tag. Only the dice of smoked beets, onions and pickled mustard seeds proved underwhelming. The rest of these lavish sides were addictive, especially the enormous bowl of potatoes, from which four people might have feasted with abandon. Plump spears of asparagus arrived dotted with micro-squares of Asian pear (great crunch!), and garlanded by ribbons of fried shallot. With the spring asparagus came a large bowl of green curry—excellent and very spicy green curry. Great, but unnecessary.

Along with fresh drip preparation of decaf coffee ($7) served in sleek porcelain cups, we shared one of the house desserts, a strawberry and white chocolate macaron ($10). This spectacular dish turned out to be the highlight of our meal, and I say this as an avowed fan of cheese at the end of a meal. Truly gorgeous, the substantial macaron—a pillow of white chocolate diplomat pastry cream studded with strawberries inside the tender almond meringue sandwich—was joined on the plate by an oval of salted strawberry ice cream, crumbles of white chocolate and fresh strawberries. Our two forks worked swiftly until nothing remained of this creation. Simply a knockout! A destination dessert.

Noise level be damned, writing this makes me want to go back to Alderwood right now! The service continues to fine-tune, which is a good thing. But the food already justifies the hype.

Open Sunday-Thursday 4-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday until 11 p.m. Closed Monday. Alderwood, 155 Walnut Ave., Santa Cruz. 588-3238, alderwoodsantacruz.com.

Music Preview: Gurf Morlix Melds Mortality, Americana Optimism

Americana singer-songwriter Gurf Morlix has been thinking a lot about his own mortality lately. It’s just kind of a part of his reality now as a 67-year-old man.

“Friends of mine have been dying and that’s not going to stop anytime soon,” Morlix tells me. “When you get to be 67, you’re thinking about these things.”

So it should be no surprise that his latest album, Impossible Blue, deals with death—a lot. It’s an intimate album that sounds as though his worn voice is gently singing in the same room as you. Even with a full band backing him, it has the same quiet emotional quality that you might get on a solo acoustic album.

Morlix is an experienced producer who’s worked with Lucinda Williams, Mary Gauthier and Slaid Cleaves, so he knows how to find the sound he wants. For this record, he set out to create a lot of space on the album and not fill in every gap with an instrument.

“I play small venues. I play to a hundred seats or less. So I am going for that intimacy,” Morlix says. “I’m not going to be playing an enormo-dome, so why would I want Bruce Springsteen drum echo in my music?”

One of the deaths that influenced Impossible Blue more than any other happened a decade ago, when a close friend took his own life. Morlix tried to write a song about it four different times, and it finally clicked, emerging as the album’s closing song, “The Backbeat of the Dispossessed.”

He knew the song was finished when he found himself able to memorialize his friend in a loving, tender and sympathetic way. That was a process.

“First, you’re sad, then you become angry. Then you kind of get over that and it turns into this really tragic thing that happened,” Morlix says.

A poignant line in that song, “I can’t imagine the impossible blue running deep inside of you,” inspired the album’s title. The “impossible blue,” he tells me, is the feeling of deep, deep sorrow that he can only imagine his friend felt and led him to take his own life.

“This guy had a teenage son when he checked out. I was thinking, ‘How sad can a human being be? How deep is that chasm?’ I can’t relate,” Morlix says. “I felt really bad in my life sometimes, but nothing close to that. I was just trying to imagine it.”

In spite of how hopeless the title sounds, the record is actually filled with hope and joy.

“The body count has been pretty high on some of my albums, and I don’t really have much say in that matter,” Morlix says. “You can’t just be dismal. No one wants or needs that. You got to offer something. You have to have hope somehow.”

Morlix recently suffered a heart attack, but he’s fully recovered and back on his feet. Now he feels like he’s living on borrowed time. You can hear the optimism on Impossible Blue, even as he talks about grim moments in his life.

“That was a monumental event. When you’re faced with mortality, you start embracing love a little bit more,” Morlix says. “Every day is really special to me. They put a stent in, and I’m good to go. I’m clear to eat all the triple baconators now, and I feel good.”

As a lifelong sideman, player and producer, he’s finally at a place where he’s writing and recording his own tunes—and people are actually excited to hear him play them.

“Some people peak early on, and they can’t seem to write a relevant song after that point,” Morlix says. “I feel like I’m still ramping it up here. It’s good to keep growing and improving.”

Gurf Morlix performs at 7:30 p.m. on Thursday, April 25, at Michael’s On Main, 2591 Main St., Soquel. $15. 479-9777.

A Prodigal Son of Santa Cruz Lit Returns

In the early 1970s, Robert Lundquist was both a rising star in, and the enfant terrible of, the Santa Cruz literary Renaissance that included the likes of Raymond Carver, George Hitchcock, William Everson, James D. Houston, Anne Steinhart (who was also a brilliant musician), Stephen Kessler, and Morton Marcus—with occasional appearances by one of Lundquist’s mentors, Charles Bukowski—in what was largely a male-dominated (and often sexist) milieu.

By his early 20s, the Los Angeles born-and-bred Lundquist had been published in the Nation, the Paris Review and designated by Rolling Stone as one of the “Best 100 American Poets.” In only a few years, Lundquist was a broken figure, lost in the bottle, and I presume, a variety of drugs and despair. His once-bright literary star had burned out.

I later came across a dark, poignant poem entitled “A Street,” in the highly respected UCSC literary journal Quarry West, that had been written by Lundquist. It was a knockout-brilliant poem chronicling Lundquist’s noir downtown L.A. childhood. But only the first segment of the poem appeared. I waited years to read the other half. It never came.

Cut to four decades later. Last fall, I learned that Lundquist was having his first full-length collection of poetry published, After Mozart (Heroin on 5th Street), by New River Press of London. I could hardly wait to get my hands on it. My anticipation was fully rewarded. In my mind, the collection (which includes the denouement of “A Street”) is one of the great works of American poetry to emerge in the last quarter century.

Lundquist, now sober and a practicing psychoanalyst in his beloved downtown Los Angeles, is coming to Bookshop Santa Cruz, this Thursday, April 25, at 7 p.m. Given European reviews of his book and various reports of his readings in London and Paris (and they have been exuberantly praiseworthy), it promises to be a literary celebration for the ages.

Robert Lundquist will read from ‘After Mozart (Heroin on 5th Street),’ at Bookshop Santa Cruz on Thursday, April 25, at 7 p.m.

Fundraiser Aims to Save Santa Cruz’s Hidden Peak Teahouse

Hidden Peak Teahouse owner David Wright may be the king of tea, but he’s the first to admit that when it comes to business and marketing, he’s more of a jester.

“We are way behind financially but way ahead spiritually,” he laughs.

Wright is something of a paradox. An avid fan of the film Superbad and dirty jokes, he doesn’t use cell phones or computers—or really any technology aside from light switches, a fridge and his DVD player. He also says that he’s disconnected from the financial side of running his business, and he still feels like a novice when it comes to taxes and marketing. That probably explains why, for the second time in the last couple of years, the teahouse is struggling to make ends meet. If it doesn’t raise funds or come up with another plan, Wright says, it could close up shop as early as July.

“There is nothing like this place anywhere. We just want to stay here in a simple way because of what we hear back from people,” he says. “We have so many testimonials of clarity and equilibrium that come from people here to unplug. This is a temple, this is not a business. It’s put here so that it can be in the marketplace, but it’s here for a unique reason that’s maybe too cutting-edge and ahead of its time.”

The teahouse’s first online fundraiser was in December 2016, when Wright launched a campaign on the shop’s website with a $50,000 goal. He garnered nearly $10,000, which helped Hidden Peak continue to keep the doors open and alleviate financial difficulties at the time. Wright says the money went quickly, and he decided that he wouldn’t want to run another campaign himself.

It didn’t feel right before, it wasn’t my way. It felt wrong, contrived, upside down and backwards. I tried it, and it wasn’t something I was going to do now,” he says. “We are tea people, nature people, simple people. We have been doing this for over 20 years, and we still don’t know anything about driving business. We are more concerned with engagement and community.”

After hearing about the dire financial situation at the teahouse, friend and Santa Cruz resident Michael Trainer, who’s set to open a downtown café of his own, started a GoFundMe page to raise money for the teahouse and rally support. Currently, Hidden Peak is operating at a deficit upwards of $36,000—nearly half of which is IRS employee taxes. The teahouse needs an additional $20,000 to cover merchandise and maintenance costs. As of 1 p.m. on Thursday, April 17, the GoFundMe had raised $1,875 of its $56,334 goal.

The new effort is more transparent than Hidden Peak’s last fundraiser, which simply involved a donate button on the teahouse’s website and periodic updates on its blog, where Wright would say how far along the effort was. In hindsight, Wright says the reason for that approach was probably technological incompetence on his part. He says it’s helpful that someone else is behind the new fundraiser.

“This time it’s all Mike and his crew and the community he brought into it,” Wright says. “We petitioned nobody. He said, ‘We will do everything. We can’t have this place disappear.’ It was very touching.”

Although the fundraiser has a long way to go, Wright’s happy to feel the community’s support.

“Mike gets the more quirky Santa Cruz element of what we are, what I am,” Wright says. “We are about people and community. Yes of course, we need money to continue doing what we do, but we don’t do it for money. I’m not here to build an empire.”

Trainer says he was shocked to hear about Hidden Peak’s financial troubles. He wants to prevent the business from going the way of other beloved downtown institutions, like Caffe Pergolesi and the Logos book store, both of which closed in the past two years.

“In my mind, if people knew about their financial situation, it would never close,” Trainer says. “I wanted to take the initiative to help. Other people have been shocked and amazed when they hear about it too. The general feeling about us losing Pergolesi and Logos is an open wound, so the idea of losing something else is really sad.”

Looking ahead, Wright would like to setup a council of supporters who believe in Hidden Peak’s mission. He and his team are thinking about putting out a call for a business partner who would share a similar mindset and values.

Before telling a dumb-blonde joke as we wrap up, Wright, who doesn’t have credit or job history, mentions to me that if the teahouse doesn’t work out, he will likely have to find another job, one that doesn’t require computers, of course. While many entrepreneurs would struggle to imagine life after business, he expresses an openness to transitioning away and opening new doors.

“My life is devoted to humanity. I don’t want anything,” Wright says. “I’m not looking for remodels and bigger sectional couches. I realize now that I’ve put myself in a situation where I need help with business motivation alongside our main community aspect. But the glass isn’t half-empty, there is so much joy, so much abundance.”

For more information on Hidden Peak TeaHouse’s drive, visit gofundme.com/save-the-hidden-peak-tea-house.

Preview: Lauren Ruth Ward at Catalyst

Last December, singer-songwriter Lauren Ruth Ward released a seven-song Doors cover EP called Happy Birthday Jim. She also made a video for each song. The whole thing was done in just seven weeks, a way to keep busy while her label waited for the right moment to release her new album.

“We did that out of sheer boredom. I was like, ‘I am dying, I need to put something out,” Ward says. “They’re being so precious about these songs and the plan. I want to respect it, but my fans are asking me when I’m going to put something out. It really drives me nuts.”

The cover EP was a collaborative project. She gave each of the seven songs to a different videographer, told them what the color scheme should be, and gave them each two weeks to make their videos. She didn’t even watch the videos until they were uploaded.

Despite having released the critically praised, fiercely queer art-rock record Well, Hell early in 2018 on Weekday, a subsidiary of Sony, putting together the Jim Morrison cover record on her own really excited her. There was a freedom to it that she really missed.

“They want you to work with names,” Ward says. “In L.A., if you’re working with somebody in their closet in Sherman Oaks, I understand it sounds sketchy, but I’m like, ‘It is a very creative human being.’”

The label let her make the Morrison cover record on her own, but they didn’t see eye to eye on her overall career trajectory. She was actually relieved in early January when she got the call that Weekday had folded, leaving her without a label.

“I’m super creative. I like to stay active,” Ward says. “That was such a problem. I didn’t foresee that. It would totally dampen who I am as a person, thus affecting my art.”

Since being label-free, she’s already released the highly energetic and self-empowering “Valhalla” as a video, as well as the audio for low-key and reflective “Pull String.” She’s got several more songs and videos in the works, and she can’t wait to get to them all out.

“I don’t really have a passion for an album. My thoughts don’t feel like they’re coming together as a chunk,” Ward says. “I’m just having a notion and writing about it, seeing a visual and creating it, and then releasing it as its own thing. That’s always been who I am.”

Originally from a small town in Maryland, she left her life as a hair stylist in 2015 and moved to L.A., where she entered the music scene full throttle. There she also felt a freedom to explore her sexuality. She’s now engaged to female singer-songwriter LP.

Ward is fiercely creative musically and visually. Getting signed to a label seemed like the opportunity she needed, but she found that she’s much better suited to being independent and having no one telling her what she can and can’t do. She still works as a hair stylist in L.A. In fact, in the four years she’s lived there, she’s been able to build up her client base enough that she can now fund her music videos herself, and pretty much express herself how she wants.

“I see visuals for every song. Sometimes I see the music videos before the songs are finished, or when it’s being written,” Ward says. “Before the label, I wanted a music video for everything, but I couldn’t afford it. Now after the label, I have a day job that I can use to fund projects.”

She’s had the unexpected offer this past year of joining a newly revived Divinyls. Through mutual friends, she met Divinyls guitarist Mark McEntee, who was blown away by her voice and energy, which reminded him of original singer Crissy Amphlett. They recorded a version of “I Touch Myself” with Ward and it was incredible. He booked a Divinyls tour in Australia earlier this year, but it got postponed due to some personal issues he was dealing with. She’s hoping it gets rescheduled soon.

“My generation does not know them at all. I’m excited to be a megaphone for my generation to be like, ‘This band was insane,’” Ward says. “Some of my friends were like, ‘I saw you post about going on the road with some Australian band. And I looked them up and holy shit, Crissy Amphlett, I lived my life not knowing who this person is.’ I was excited to put them on blast, because they deserve it.”

INFO: 9 p.m. Wednesday, April 24. Catalyst, 1011 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz. $12 adv/$15 door. 423-1338.

Full Steam Dumpling Makes Local Debut

Andy Huynh has an impressive restaurant résumé.

Having worked at Assembly, 515 Kitchen & Cocktails and Home in Soquel as Brad Briske’s sous chef, he’s put his culinary time in. It was after making thousands of angliottis with Briske that he noticed they aren’t too different from dumplings, and left his day job to perfect the art of the Asian staple over the last eight months.

Full Steam Dumpling is a mobile pop-up that specializes in bao, gyoza and har gow, but these aren’t just typical street dumplings—they’re fancified. Huynh makes a pork with kimchi version and a squid ink, pork and crab shumai, plus a kale and hedgehog mushroom veggie option; don’t worry there’s no hedgehog in there.

What got you into cooking?

HUYNH: I just needed a job when I was 17. My family does cook, but I did it out of necessity. When I moved to Santa Cruz, I noticed how food was so important to people here. I used to help my mom roll wontons growing up, too. But I’ve also had to try and teach myself how to make dumplings. There is so much that goes into it, it’s crazy.

I started making dumplings at the 515, doing specials, and people actually bought them. There aren’t a lot of dumplings around Santa Cruz. I feel like sometimes Asian food is underrepresented. The last dumpling place was Mortal Dumpling. I heard great things, but they have been gone for awhile.

Favorite filling?

I really like the classic pork and scallion. It has a bunch of secret ingredients I can’t share. I also have a chilli-cheese bao that I tried for fun one time that was pretty good.  The braised beef is pretty good, but I have a lot of favorites. We are always experimenting with new things.

What’s the most dumplings you’ve made in a day?

Like 600 by myself. It was a lot. Now I have a team, but for the Do It Ourselves fest we have to make like 2,000.

Have you been just living off of dumplings for the last eight months?

Pretty much. Dumplings and fillings. Sometimes I will cook up some rice with the filling. It’s not too bad.

Full Steam Dumpling hosts their first pop-up at Shanty Shack at 3:30 p.m. on Saturday, April 20.

Bonny Doon Farm’s Lavender Legacy

I fall in love with people all the time. It’s the nature of the beast when writing about artists and makers in this community. But I have a special kind of love for Bonny Doon Farm.

America’s first English lavender farm measures only 5 acres, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in the details. Founded in 1972 by Diane and Gary Meehan, Bonny Doon Farm is an old-world timewarp built on community, love and the kindness of others.

Diane inherited the land from her parents, then began growing lavender in the sandy, oceanic soil that English lavender thrives in. After learning how to make tallow soap from the man at Shopper’s Corner, she started making lavender soap to sell alongside lavender bunches at the original Renaissance Faire.

Although she passed away in December, Diane’s legacy lives on in the farm, which sells goods at the Goat Hill Fair, Saratoga Blossom Festival, Bonny Doon Art & Wine, and Capitola Art & Wine festivals. After a 25 percent crop loss following the 2008 Martin Fire, the small team that runs the farm is in the process of planting more lavender, which they expect to bloom this summer.

“There is something about lavender, more so than other oils, that relaxes us,” farm manager Anita Elfving says. “Linalool is a component of lavender that relaxes us, and that’s a good thing.”

Linalool contributes to lavender’s distinctive flavor and scent. The plant is popular for aromatherapy, sleep aid and anxiety relief, but also as an insecticide and mosquito repellant. Bonny Doon Farm uses it to make shampoo, conditioner, salves, lotions, and oils.

While the soaps are no longer made from tallow, the location has retained a sense of enchantment and wonder. Scottish moss blankets the paths to the large, Japanese maples that were just sprouting their first baby spring leaves on a recent visit. Careful where you step; there are rodent-sized salamanders meandering around minding their own business.

My first encounter with Bonny Doon Farm’s soap was at the Tea House in downtown Santa Cruz. I used to rely on commercial products from CVS but was on the lookout for natural alternatives after reading an ingredient list one day in the shower. Paraffin wax (a petroleum-based candle wax derivative) and silicone-based polymers, among many other things, didn’t sound like something I should be lathering up with daily.

It feels selfish to keep Bonny Doon Farm a secret. The land is surrounded by the 500-acre State of California Bonny Doon Ecological Reserve. It’s not open to the public, but this is a special farm—mostly because the folks running it are the nicest people you’ll ever meet.

“We are mountain people and Santa Cruz people” Anita Elfving says, handing me a cup of Irish Breakfast before she goes to prod the fire. “We aren’t foo foo Santa Cruz people. We are real.”

Elfving says a lot of people call them to create their own scents, given that they compound many of their own perfumes and colognes. Elfving’s daughter Caitlin makes salves out of cocoa butter and beeswax. They are also wading into CBD salves, “because everyone wants them,” Elfving says. They get their honey from hives onsite, though Elfving says years of drought didn’t do them any favors.

“Our honey is one-source honey, which is very rare,” Elfving says. “Most honeys come from a conglomeration of honeys. We could tell you exactly which hive the honey comes from.”

On the rainy afternoon when I visited, what started as a fine mist turned into soft drops, making our walk around the garden more of a slow stroll over the mossy bricks. If it weren’t raining, I wouldn’t have watched where I stepped and may have missed the personalized bricks—an homage to family and friends cemented into circles and squares around a fountain.

“There’s nowhere like it, this place,” Elfving says. “We all share in the bounty.”

bonnydoonfarm.com.

A Taste of Spain from Ser Winery

Getting together with my Wild Wine Women group is always fun. We share a variety of wines over lunch, visiting different wineries and restaurants in the vicinity. At our last meetup at Café Mare in downtown Santa Cruz, winemaker Nicole Walsh brought an outstanding 2015 Graciano made under her own label, Ser Winery. I was immediately smitten with this delicious wine.

Graciano is native to the La Rioja province of Spain and typically blended with Tempranillo. There aren’t a lot of Graciano wines out there, but Walsh always takes the bull by the horns and comes up with something different. Her well-made Graciano has just 3 percent Tempranillo added.

Grapes are harvested from the warm climes of John Smith Vineyard in San Benito County, and the end result is aromas typical of this grape—floral notes, especially violet, with black pepper. “It is extremely complex on the palate,” says Walsh, with “wonderfully integrated, woody undertones and notes of vanilla, nuts and spices.”

This fabulous 2015 Graciano ($32) can be found at local markets, or head to Walsh’s tasting room in Saratoga and try her other wines as well.  Ser Winery has joined forces with Silvertip Vineyards, so you can do a double-whammy in their joint tasting room.

Ser and Silvertip, 14572A Big Basin Way, Saratoga. 901-7806, serwinery.com.

Wine-tasting at Seascape Sports Club

Looking for a fun event to kick off the weekend? Head to Seascape Sports Club for the first in a series of monthly wine-tasting events. The first one will be from 6-7:30 p.m. on Friday, April 19, with Alfaro Winery, then continue on the third Friday of the month. There will be music, wine and appetizers for $20.

Seascape Sports Club, 1505 Seascape Blvd., Aptos. 688-1993, seascapesportsclub.com.

Twisted Roots Winery

At Twisted Roots in Carmel Valley, seize the opportunity to enjoy their fine wines and check out a newly renovated tasting room during spring happy hour from 5-7 p.m. on Friday, April 26.

Twisted Roots Winery, 12 Del Fino Place, Carmel Valley. 594-8282, twistedrootsvineyard.com.

The Dawn of Cannabis Tourism

Penny Ellis is pretty much a farm tour queen. She co-founded Santa Cruz’s Open Farm Tours five years ago to bring consumers and farmers closer together, and her passion for agritourism has recently led her into some new territory: cannabis tours.

Although she admits to being a marijuana novice (both in practice and in theory), she says the techniques and sustainability of cannabis farming are currently more relevant than ever.

“When people go out and meet farmers and see where their food is grown, it makes a big difference,” Ellis says. “And that applies to cannabis, too. I really believe that people getting out and meeting the growers and asking questions, that’s a really important part of the whole picture.”

Since many of the practices that apply to organic agriculture also apply to the cannabis industry, Ellis created the tour to help make consumers more aware of the practices behind cannabis farming since legalization. The three farms that will be featured—Coastal Sun,  Bird Valley Organics and Lifted Farms—are all established commercial growers that supplied medical marijuana dispensaries prior to legalization.

“A lot of the farms are really excited to be coming out of the shadows, because before legalization they were living underground for so long and hiding everything—it didn’t feel legitimate,” she says. “That’s got to be hard. So this is really a big deal for them.”

The staff of Therapeutic Healthcare Collective will also talk about the necessary role that dispensaries play in the cannabis community as a source of education and access. After the tour of the three farms, there will be a farm-to-table, family-style dinner prepared by local chef Dare Arowe featuring some terpene-infused dishes and beverages. While terpene is a non-psychoactive component of cannabis, it’s responsible for the aroma and more mellow “high” effects like anxiety or stress reduction.   

But don’t be fooled by the promotional video with cameos of joints the size of dinner plates, dabs and delicious-looking whole-hog BBQ—for Ellis, the focus of the event is on the education and appreciation of cannabis farming. While the dinner is bring-your-own-4/20 friendly, the organizers will not be selling or providing cannabis, and consumption is not allowed on the tours.

“I’ve learned so much it’s unbelievable. There is a massive amount to cannabis production,” Ellis says. “After I heard about the history of cannabis, especially in Santa Cruz and Monterey counties, it was fascinating. To hear about the strains that began in Corralitos, like Blue Dream, I didn’t realize that this area played such an important historical role.”

When Ellis began planning the cannabis tour, she says she was in contact with eight farms. But once conversations around security began, she says some of the farms were concerned and ended up opting out of the tour.

“The three farms on the tour now are very secure, there’s always people there, and it’s not like you can just go and walk around,” she says. “But security is always a concern because the crops are a lot of money, and it’s not unusual to get poachers, especially with outdoor growers.”

“Right now there are so many misconceptions about cannabis. There is still a stigma around it, and it’s gotten a really bad rep, but in reality there are so many things that we don’t know about it,” Ellis says. “We want to turn that around so people can see it as something that can be really good in their lives.”

santacruzculturaltours.com.

What We Don’t Know About CBD—and Why

It’s happy hour at the MeloMelo kava bar in downtown Santa Cruz. The afternoon weather is warm, and I’m looking to “wet my whistle,” as Dean Martin might have said. But there isn’t a drop of scotch or gin or even beer to be found here—it’s not that kind of place—so I saddle up to a suitable bar stool, motion to the barkeep and order a tall frosty glass of CBD brew on tap.

“Blood orange or lemon ginger?” she says.

“Lemon ginger,” I say, as if it’s the most obvious thing in the world (thank God Dino’s not alive to see this). The drink is white, fizzy, opaque, kind of like a Tom Collins without the maraschino cherry. It’s also pretty refreshing.

CBD is shorthand for cannabidiol, a once-obscure chemical compound found in cannabis that is having its moment in the pharmacological spotlight. If chemicals were pop singers, CBD would be Cardi B.

Unlike its cousin THC, which is the chemical that produces the high in marijuana, CBD is non-psychoactive. The brew I’m drinking will deliver no buzz, no tingle. Its benefits are all theoretical. CBD is marketed on its promise to reduce inflammation, manage anxiety and combat insomnia, among other claims. But hard evidence is scant.

It is a truism of contemporary capitalism that markets operate on a different time horizon than science. Markets have often made a couple of passes around the block before science has put its pants on. And there is no more vivid illustration of this phenomenon than CBD.

It can now be found in hundreds of consumer products, including tinctures, oils, capsules, topical creams, lip balms, salt soaks, vaporizer mists, and soaps. It’s been added to chocolate bars, coffee, candy, and cocktails. A company called MaxDaddy sells CBD products for dogs. And, in an “SNL” skit waiting to happen, you can even buy something called Jack’s Knob Polish, a CDB-infused “personal lubricant.”

This avalanche of commercial opportunism is centered on a chemical that is still in a weird legal limbo. Almost every state in the country has some laws governing legal cannabis use, and a few allow legal use of CBD only. Marijuana is legal for all uses in 10 states, including California. But, in the eyes of the federal government, cannabis is still a Schedule I controlled substance that is highly addictive and has no medical value, no different from cocaine and heroin.

Complicating the picture is the recently passed federal farm bill, which legalized the production of industrial hemp, the non-psychoactive variant of cannabis (which has a noble role in early American history). The bill, championed by that notorious stoner Mitch McConnell, opens up new avenues for the sale of CBD products in states not yet on board with marijuana legalization.

But to what end? The only controlled study that has proven CBD’s therapeutic effectiveness comes from the U.K. company GW Pharmaceuticals, which has developed a prescription CBD tincture called Epidiolex, recently approved for use in the U.S. by the Food and Drug Administration. But that study was tightly focused on the treatment of two rare-but-severe forms of epilepsy, and makes no claims about the treatment of anxiety, depression or other ailments.

Josh Wurzer is a chemist and pioneer in the field of CBD research. In 2008, he was the director of the first quality control lab measuring medical marijuana, Oakland’s Steep Hill. Shortly thereafter, he and a few partners started their own lab, SC (Science of Cannabis) Labs in Santa Cruz. His lab tests strains of commercially grown cannabis for a variety of organic compounds, including CBD, as well as pathogens such as E. coli, pesticides and heavy metals.

Wurzer says the ambiguous legal status of cannabis is hampering efforts to more rigorously study physical effects that might validate health claims.

“If I’m a cannabis researcher,” Wurzer says, “and I want to do any kind of research in an organization that gets federal funding, I’m very limited to the cannabinoids I have access to.”

The feds maintain a farm to grow cannabis for study at, of all places, the University of Mississippi. “But the diversity of that plant material is very limited,” says Wurzer.

Even if there were studies confirming CBD’s potential healing properties, that doesn’t mean the bag of CBD gummies you buy on Amazon is going to do anything for you. California law requires mandatory testing on all cannabis products, but that only applies to products sold in licensed dispensaries, which use companies such as SC Labs to give consumers precise chemical profiles of nearly everything they sell. Products sold at grocery stores, health food stores or online do not necessarily use such testing, and this lack of a standard regulatory structure has created a kind of anything-goes environment in the commercial market.

What’s more, there is evidence to suggest that ingestion of CBD through the digestive system is inefficient, if not useless. “CBD has almost no oral bioavailability,” is the way Wurzer says it. He says that the most efficient ways to get CBD into the bloodstream are to inhale it, dissolve it in your mouth or (ick) use it as a suppository.

CBD research is a rapidly evolving field, and the range of possibilities is still wide. Wurzer has faith in the promise of CBD’s potential to help with any number of medical issues. At least, he says, taking CBD is not going to hurt you: “The upside is the super-low toxicity. We have still yet to have a documented case of THC or CBD overdose leading to any kind of death. You can’t say that about aspirin or ibuprofen.”

Back at the MeloMelo kava bar, my bartender tells me that my 12-ounce beverage has 25 milligrams of CBD in it, which means nothing to me. When I finish my non-intoxicating drink, she lays a much more meaningful number on me. The final tab? $7 (with a tip, $8).

I left the place, as promised, with a lighter spirit, though it could have just been the effect of a lighter wallet.

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